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Just picked up a X1000 should I restore?

postman56

Active Member
Hello fello Fisher lovers, I picked up a X1000 and wanted to ask anyone that may of restored one of these
beauties and what I'm looking at cost wise etc etc.
The phono stage isn't currently working so I'll have to check into that first and order a few cosmetic parts missing as well.
If anyone wants to contact me, I'd greatly appreciate the insight
 

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If the phono is not working, make sure you have the Low Level controls turned up (full to start with). This control adjusts the output of the phono preamps and if turned down to a low level, it will make the unit appear as if the phono preamps (indeed all of the low level inputs) don't work.

Costs will vary based on how you chose to restore it. If you replace the can caps, you'll have over $100 right there. It's much less if you use discrete components, but there's not a lot of room underneath one of these things to use that approach. You may need tubes as well. Most of the resistors and mylar caps will still be good, but all the low voltage electrolytic caps need to be replaced as well. In this particularly amplifier, the selenium bias rectifier will outlast you, but conventional wisdom says to replace it with silicon. If you do, do NOT add any additional resistance to compensate for the silicon's higher efficiency.

I'd plan on $200 in parts before any tubes, which should allow enough to get most everything you'll need. Do add a current limiter to help protect the power switch. Use a CL-70 to handle the full power load of the amplifier.

Good luck with your restoration!

Dave
 
Am I reading that LOWER RIGHT CONTROL correctly??? SPACE Expander???? Is it built in on the X-1000???? Or is the Fentanyl causing halliucinations again?????
 
Calm down Larry, you're not hallucinating :) The control is for the spaceXpander -- but it's just the control. Recall that the spaceXpander unit has three pieces to it: the electronic unit, the spring set, and the spaceXpander level control that has a 5 ft cord attached to it with a plug on the other end that plugs into the electronic unit -- this so that the electronic unit and springs can be hidden out of sight, while the level control can be mounted at a convenient point for easy access.

What Fisher did was to build a SpaceXpander level control into the X-1000, so that all you needed was an interconnecting cord to connect between a jack on the back of the X-1000, and the level control jack on the electronic unit. That way, the SpaceXpander level control became part of the amplifier rather than a separately mounted control -- so the SpaceXpander electronic unit and spring set were still required as separate pieces when used with the X-1000.

Dave
 
Thanks Dave. Guess I can "take the REDS", now. Avery FISHER really did think of damned near everything to put on these things. Too bad this X-1000 didn't make it to Console status. I think it would have been a close call against the 400cx2 / TA-900 combo in the 1964-66 Presidents.
 
Postman; by all means restore it. This integrated is the equal to the FM-1000 tuner both being top of the line. It's worth every Nickel and Dime that gets thrown it's way.
 
Hello Dave and Larry thanks so much for taking the time to respond with my posting.
If you have suppliers for the electrolytic caps,etc, suggestions of the manufacture and also the jewels and dial caps I'd appreciate shortcutting my techs
du diligence to save a few dollars.
Ken
 
I use Mouser or Digikey (one stop shop) for 90% of the parts as most of us do. The rest (dial knobs, and brights and such ) E-Prey. Hayseed Hamfest for Custom made Main Filter caps vs. AES for generic, get what you can and cobble them together Main caps. Prices btwn the two are comparable, but may save your tech a little time on the backside (15 to 30 minutes?) For the Main filter caps you can order them and have Tom ship directly to your tech, as you can with the rest.
 
I had Tom over at Hayseed put together the main filter caps for my X1000, most of the other underneath parts can be had off the shelf as Larry states.
Looks like you have a good start with some very nice output tubes...
Your X1000 looks like it was well cared for, nice case too, looking forward to hearing how the restoration goes and some more pictures.
Congrats on a nice unit...
 
Ok sorry I figured it out.
Next question, the jewels are they the same from Mouser as you see on Ebay for sale?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/173245906161?ul_noapp=true
Any difference in quality, fit, shape



I thought I'd take a look at those pair of phono valves 12ax7's but I was wondering does one have to take off the faceplate to pull the unit out of the cabinet, moving it backwards?
I can’t see it any other way unfortunately
Thanks
Ken
 
Last edited:
Ok sorry I figured it out.
Next question, the jewels are they the same from Mouser as you see on Ebay for sale?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/173245906161?ul_noapp=true
Any difference in quality, fit, shape



I thought I'd take a look at those pair of phono valves 12ax7's but I was wondering does one have to take off the faceplate to pull the unit out of the cabinet, moving it backwards?
I can’t see it any other way unfortunately
Thanks
Ken
Yep,
the transformers are too tall. pull the face plate to get it out of the case....
 
There is a guy selling (I'm pretty sure reproductions of) original style jewels on eBay - might splurge for those for an X 1000 - I bought some to compare to originals, and they are close enough that I was afraid to mix them up when I was comparing. If not - I'd be happy to send you a set of the .50 centers just for showing up. You just have to pay the first class postage.
 
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