Kenwood KD-770D Return

[MindTheGAAP]

I posted this to r/vinyl with a video of the issue I'm having. I'm not an expert but I'm going to try to explain what my issue is now.

I have had the turntable for about 4 years now and recently, had to replace the stylus because the one that was on it, an Empire SLM444, had broken. Instead of replacing the stylus, it was recommended to me to use a Nagaoka MP100 - which I have on there now.

Since replacing the cartridge, the arm no longer lifts automatically at the end of a side. As you can see on the video I linked to (again, here), it gets mostly there and then just seems to stall as it gets close to the label. This means that it isn't ever quite triggering the auto-lift without manual intervention (shown as me nudging the cue lever in the vid). Is it that I just have the cartridge installed with the wrong balance/ tracking force? Is the anti-skate weighting just wrong? I am fine with it being a manual lift if that's how it needs to be, I just don't want to overlook a bigger issue that this is merely a symptom of.

Appreciate any help anyone can provide to the relative newbie... would love to get this sorted so it's back to it's best.

Tom

 

[Solist]

Just to be clear, from the moment you replaced the cartridge (first record you used it with) it started doing that?

Also, did the lift mechanism always behave like that? It is rather exuberant to say the least

Edit:


Just read the 770D is auto lift only.

So basically there are 2 possibilities:

First is the antiskate. Try and set it to 0 and check if this solved the problem.

If the problem is still there check the tonearm bearings. Probably not the case since it worked before, but worth mentioning.

Turn the turntable off and move the tonearm by hand over the spot where the tonearm stops moving. If you notice any resistance from the tonearm, there is a problem in the tonearm bearings.

Something that might work is to move the tonearm with your hand over that spot many times. This should remove some imperfections in the bearings. Just be very gentle with the movement, and if possible remove the cartridge, so you dont risk to damage the stylus.

 

[MindTheGAAP]

Ha! Yes, it’s typically always that enthusiastic when automatically lifting. I think I actually was able to fix it by changing the way the cartridge was installed. By changing the positioning, it “allowed” the stylus to get to that trigger point. I think I may just not have installed it well originally.

Probably speaks volumes to the need for me to buy a decent alignment tool.

 

[savatage1973]

Probably speaks volumes to the need for me to buy a decent alignment tool.

Go to VE--Vinyl Engine website (you will need to register, but it is free), and you can download the manuals for your table, and print alignment protractors--if you download and print a protractor, make sure your printer is set to 100% (not "fit to page") or it may be scaled down and inaccurate. If you haven't already, it would be in your best interest to invest a few bucks (literally a few bucks) in a scale (tracking force gauge) to set the tracking force and then set the anti-skate proportional to the tracking force. Don't rely upon the markings on the counterweight--sometimes they are on, but more often than not, they are not notoriously accurate.

I am not intimately familiar with your specific table, but the Baerwald alignment is generally the most "forgiving". Technics all use Stevenson, and others prefer Loefgren alignment--check to see what is recommended for your table.

 

[Solist]

I will make some protractors for the KD770D.
After that you can try to make your own and compare the results.

Printing custom protractors is a must know for everyone who owns a TT!!

 

[Solist]

Here you go:



The effective length of your tonearm is 245mm so I made them just a tad short (244,5mm).

In case you will have problems reaching the null points for proper alignment let me know, I can further reduce the effective length.

And a couple of videos:

It is simple. You print the 2 protractors, choose the one you like the most (most people use either Lofgren A or B, stevenson is usually used for shorter tonearms) and then print it.

Make sure that the scaling is correct by measuring the x and y axis with a ruller.

Then place the protractor on a lp you dont love that much.

Then make a hole where it is marked and using a string of some kind or dental floss connect the spindle to the center of the tonearm bearings.

Then align the string with the line on the protractor marked spindle-pivot. This will set the protractor in the correct position. It is also recommended to tape the platter so that it does not move during the process.

Then simply align the cantilever of the cartridge to the null points