malden
Addicted Member
That's what's known as a "bonded" tip, it's not "nude" The cone is a metal base with the diamond glued at the tip.
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Lifespan of styli.
- Thread starter PastorTube
- Start date
That's what's known as a "bonded" tip, it's not "nude" The cone is a metal base with the diamond glued at the tip.
I'm pretty certain the AT120E is a nude eliptical...not bonded.
This AT3400 is bonded...and you can see that it's two parts - at least if you look very carefully
Audio-Technica ATN120E Stylus Specifications
- Frequency response: 15Hz-25kHz
- Output voltage @ 1kHz,5cm/sec.: 5mV
- Channel balance: 1dB
- Channel separation @ 1kHz/10kHz: 29/20dB
- Stylus type: 0.3 x 0.7 mil Nude Elliptical diamond
- Stylus construction: Nude round shank
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marcmorin
RIP 1953-2020
the light shining on it is passing into the higher polished area instead of bouncing back off the unpolished part. looks normal to me
malden
Addicted Member
I'm pretty certain the AT120E is a nude eliptical...not bonded.
This AT3400 is bonded...and you can see that it's two parts - at least if you look very carefully
Audio-Technica ATN120E Stylus Specifications
- Frequency response: 15Hz-25kHz
- Output voltage @ 1kHz,5cm/sec.: 5mV
- Channel balance: 1dB
- Channel separation @ 1kHz/10kHz: 29/20dB
- Stylus type: 0.3 x 0.7 mil Nude Elliptical diamond
- Stylus construction: Nude round shank
I'll take your word (or AT's word) for it, but the photo you posted looks like every bonded tip I've seen. Every "nude" tip I've seen has been clear from top top bottom, with no distinction between tip and shank.
I get why you say that...but I'm certain this is supposed to be a nude...I bought it factory sealed (Nov 2011 J&R), so it is what it came with. Here is another view from the side...the tip is definitely black. As I said earlier, it plays beautifully, but it just looks strange to me...hence the reason I thought I'd ask those with a lot more experience with these things than me!
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Here's a good read on this topic:
http://www.shure.com/americas/support/find-an-answer/stylus-wear-and-record-wear
Exactly how a worn stylus damages records:
"The amount of record damage, distortion, and the reduction of tonal range due to worn styli increases in direct proportion to the size of the flats on the stylus tip. Depending on the wear, the stylus tip can become a cutting tool, and if continued in use, it will eventually take the shape of a miniature chisel. Thus, when it is forced from side to side, it will cut and gouge minute particles from the groove walls as it travels. This cutting and gouging of wave crests is one form of record wear. The wearing process is also hastened by the abrasive action of dust in the grooves. The wear on both the stylus and the record groove can be considerable."
http://www.shure.com/americas/support/find-an-answer/stylus-wear-and-record-wear
Exactly how a worn stylus damages records:
"The amount of record damage, distortion, and the reduction of tonal range due to worn styli increases in direct proportion to the size of the flats on the stylus tip. Depending on the wear, the stylus tip can become a cutting tool, and if continued in use, it will eventually take the shape of a miniature chisel. Thus, when it is forced from side to side, it will cut and gouge minute particles from the groove walls as it travels. This cutting and gouging of wave crests is one form of record wear. The wearing process is also hastened by the abrasive action of dust in the grooves. The wear on both the stylus and the record groove can be considerable."
Pio said it more succinctly, though.
marcmorin
RIP 1953-2020
shoot a photo of it back lit instead of how you have the lighting now
KentTeffeteller
Gimpus Stereophilus!
Things to know here. My record collection is far more valued by many times than the equipment which plays it (very excellent itself). I replace styli often on main turntable (as it gets very frequent use as in hours a day). Styli get microscope inspected, when first wear signs noted, then replaced, and the note in the box (Has slight wear, OK to use for 2-3 months, then replace). I keep usable but first signs of wear styli for emergencies. When too worn from use, but no longer available genuine. a note which says "Retip". Also, I have specialty styli labeled on their box by tip size clearly.
First photo is strongly back lit...second photo side lit...which either washes out the black or is eliminating the reflection, but looks more uniform...
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Pio1980
AK Member
Titanium bushing?
marcmorin
RIP 1953-2020
looks like your basic stone only polished on the business end. Not wasteful, simply easier to machine something that's bigger. industrial diamond isn't expensive, nor rare.
Great point Marc. I searched amazon for "diamond tipped" and it returned a bajillion hits for products, mostly tools, literally slathered in diamond. Industrial diamond is nothing special at all anymore.
radiohead
Active Member
Here’s a recently published deep dive on stylus wear: https://thevinylpress.com/stylus-wear-mike-bodells-the-finish-line-for-your-phonograph-stylus/
Makes the case to play clean records and change your stylus sooner than you think.
Makes the case to play clean records and change your stylus sooner than you think.
marcmorin
RIP 1953-2020
since this thread was re-opened. The nude stone in the photo, is quite large. Also held in with a good bit of goo on the back side. Kinda dispels the myth that nude styli always have a lower tip mass.
tubewade
Super Member
That was an excellent read. Thank you. I'd have to agree with the findings. I get about 400 hours from spherical styli and realistically maybe 600 to 800 from light tracking ellipticals. Every time I've gone much over I found out that I was a fool for listening to that distortion and possibly damaging records.
Interestingly, with dozens of styli I've used over many years, I've never had a suspension problem other than with cheap aftermarket (Pfansteihl) styli. Today I still buy genuine, very old, Pickering and Shure and haven't received one with a bad suspension. I am not saying that bad suspensions don't happen, but that they aren't very common in my experience. The difference in elastomer quality between the genuine and counterfeits might be large.
Reason for editing: adding information.
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How does one tell if the suspension is less than compliant? I would think that the suspension changes very slowly over a long time period. And sure it might work but how does one know if the compliance has not changed over time? Please exclude the obvious cases where it is evident.