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Luxman R-113, what’s this switch for?

pdxtim

pdxtim

Well-Known Member
Below is picture of an internal switch on my Luxman R-113. I cleaned it with Faderlube and after moving it back and forth many times I don’t remember what position it should be in. What’s its purpose? Is it OK to turn power on with it in the current position or should it be moved to the right? TIA!IMG_4172.jpeg
 
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Looks like there’s a hole in the bottom cover where you could reach in and switch it. Does it say anything on the cover?

Rob
 
Surprisingly no. I checked out the user’s manual and couldn’t find any info there either.
 
There is mention of a "processor" switch in the manual but its supposed to be on the back panel ?

Does your unit have a switch on the back ?1000010001.jpg
 
Well I think I have it figured out… kinda. The user manual says the switch provides for “automatic fine tune capability, allowing unit to be precision tuned to exact frequency of cable stations.” (Whatever that means). I guess it’s ok to fire it up.
 
Probably 0.1 vs 0.2 increments for the digital tuner manually setting frequency instead of a seek function for the next station.

Easy enough to try out.
 
Thanks for the info Sam! It sounds like you have a similar unit so I have a question. Do you have any issues with the Subsonic button on your receiver? On my R-113 both the Subsonic and Loudness button don’t seem to be working. They move in and out but will not “catch” and stay “pushed in” and activated. I’ve used DeOxit F5 Faderlube on them but no luck. It almost seems that the F5 made them too “slippery”. Any ideas or suggestions? Mucho gracias.
 
Mine were working fine on my 117 and 115, however for the past 6 years I've been using the amp sections only.

To clean the controls you'll wan't a deoxidant, which is a separate product. Faderlube is a lubricant only and made for sliders to move smoothly, not switches and won't help with oxidation. I use Deoxit D100 in a syringe.

I'd highly recommend flushing out that faderlube with 99% isopropyl and then using the d100 or your favorite electrical contact cleaner.

For subsonic, you'll need to make sure whatever low frequencies that are coming in are below the cutoff, so the effect is sometimes hard to hear.
 
ps... the switches do not catch and are momentary switches.

I too thought mine was broken too when I first got my 115, however when using it, found out they are not supposed to catch. I remember that lesson learned because I bought an expensive replacement for no reason when refurbishing mine, lol.
 
Sam08861 said:
ps... the switches do not catch and are momentary switches.

I too thought mine was broken too when I first got my 115, however when using it, found out they are not supposed to catch. I remember that lesson learned because I bought an expensive replacement for no reason when refurbishing mine, lol.
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Thanks! I’ll have to do the alcohol flush and then DeOxit D5 (did you mean D5 rather than d100?).
I guess then that the little “button diagrams” showing the Off and On positions are somewhat deceptive?
 

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D5 will also work. D5 is 5% deoxidant and the rest is solvent, propellant and other stuff. You can skip the alcohol flush if you flush out with this generously.

D100 is 100% deoxidant (I think 95% really maybe)
 
My apologies, they DO latch!

Hopefully you can get out whatever gunk is keeping them from doing so.

It was the 117s MM/MC button that tripped me up years ago. That one is momentary.
 
You bet and good luck! Let us know how you make out.

Should be a wonderful sounding receiver from what I hear.
 
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