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Magnavox 9302 sherpa needed - translating schematic to chasis

SchweinHaus

Well-Known Member
Hi gang,

I am hoping to get some on my first tube amp rebuild. After having some great success with this thread finding the right beginner's amp project, I settled on a Magnavox 9302. After something like 12 years of posting, I became a member and got a 9302 on Bartertown. What I really want to do is create a thread translating the famed "Gillespie mods" for beginners. I've come to have a really deep and abiding appreciation for this community and want to contribute to it. But I'm hoping I can lean on it one more time to get me there.

As part of my quest, I bought a pdf of EJ Jurich's Vaccuum Tube Amplifier Basics, and I've identified this as a key source of my problem: Translating what I'm seeing in a schematic to what I've got on the chassis. I find this harder without the benefit of a PCB. In the book, he gives the following as an example of something that can be read off of a circuit.
View attachment 3519252

I don't want to get bogged down in the specifics of the example circuit, I just brought it up as an example of the skill I've identified that I don't really have.

My first concrete request is for good schematics for the 9302. I don't really know how to find that in the database, and all the ones I google are fairly low quality. Here's what I'm working with so far.
Screenshot 2025-06-04 at 3.06.21 AM.png
It seems clear that some parts of the schematic are missing, but this is a purely academic exercise at this point, so let's skip that for now.

One thing I have trouble with is figuring out where the schematic starts and end. So I started from the power transformer, and I instantly see that the brown and yellow and brown are clipped and do not lead to Y1 or Y2 (I assume Y1 and Y2 are other schematics I'll need.)

IMG_5499.jpeg

Okay, so that's a dead end. So I went back to another part of the schematic and looked at the input and preamp section. I see channel one going to ground, and then the other lead coming off the RCA joint going to a 470k resistor that is grounded, and then I see a 47k resistor that feeds into a 100 mmf capcitor (non polarized? but I'm not sure what the asterisk means?), but this is where my amp diverges. Here's my amp.
IMG_5500.jpeg
So the RCA input is grounded directly to the chassis. That checks out. then I follow the white wire to the connection block where I see the 470k R107 going to a ground terminal one slot over. Check. And then I get the 47K R118 going directly to pin 8 of the preamp tube without any connection to C107. And then on pin 9, I see R109 (Red red silver is, what, .022 ohms?) which should be connected to the other leg of C107, but instead goes to the balance pot (R117).

I'm starting to see this come together. I can mostly read the balance pot going to the output transformers through R112 and R212, but the x's in the diagram are a mystery to me.

It seems like the fix is as simple as soldering a 100 mmf capacitor with one leg on pin 8 and the other leg on pin 9 of the preamp tube, but that seems too easy? I don't know enough about how the circuit actually works to know if that would change the values of the resistors or anything else, and I don't have all the resistor values in the schematic.

Oh, and the pilot light is completely bypassed. See the two empty solder joints on the bottom left.

IMG_5502.jpeg

It looks like the the green line out of the power transformer on the schematic (far right of the pitcture) skips the pilot light and goes to pin 4 of the first power tube and then is daisy chained over to pin 4 of every other tube. The green and yellow line looks like it skips the pilot light and goes to pin 5 of the first power tube and then gets daisy chained over to pin n5 of the other three tubes, and then those lines get tied into an on light added by the someone along the way. I'm confused by what V1-6 mean section in this part of the schematic because I see the 4 power tubes listed above, and V1 and V4 are the preamp tubes, which don't appear to be connected to the green or green yellow lines off the transformer.

So this amp has had some cowboys mucking about in it, which I'm actually quite excited about. I would guess someone did some mods to this, and I'm wondering outloud if they got rid of the coupling caps, just based on having heard that phrase so many times and the location of the missing cap.

My plan is to get this back to dead stock, then do the Gillespie mods. From there, I want to add a phono section, preferably tube, and an input switch (which I can already figure out how to do). Then it gets my other trade skills in some kind of a custom base. I might go whole hog and build a new chasis and add some carpentry flourishes and I might design a bit of interface for it. All aesthetic stuff, but fun and part of the joy in it. It miiiight even get VU's. And I do plan on documenting everything in a thread or two for the next person who comes along.
 
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Hi gang,

.. I settled on a Magnavox 9302. After something like 12 years of posting, I became a member and got a 9302 on Bartertown.

My first concrete request is for good schematics for the 9302. I don't really know how to find that in the database, and all the ones I google are fairly low quality.
See attached hi-res .pdf as well, it zooms in pretty clearly

93XX series Schematic.jpg
 

Attachments

The asterisks, 'X"s, dotted lines show the different (versions - 93-xx-xx) and the table (missing from your schematic) fills in the details. The different versions are for with or without tuner, with or without FM multiplex, with balance control on the amp or panel.

Does look like the 6EU7 heaters are connected to the heater wires on the third from the left 6BQ5. The two clipped wires (Y1, Y2) would have gone to the white Molex connector for the tuner, obviously not needed. Is that connector even there? I usually remove it and snap a lighted on/off rocker switch in the hole. A double-pole one is a perfect fit.
 
The asterisks, 'X"s, dotted lines show the different (versions - 93-xx-xx) and the table (missing from your schematic) fills in the details. The different versions are for with or without tuner, with or without FM multiplex, with balance control on the amp or panel.

Does look like the 6EU7 heaters are connected to the heater wires on the third from the left 6BQ5. The two clipped wires (Y1, Y2) would have gone to the white Molex connector for the tuner, obviously not needed. Is that connector even there? I usually remove it and snap a lighted on/off rocker switch in the hole. A double-pole one is a perfect fit.
Ohhhh, that makes sense. The clipped wire were powering some other component in the console that's not there any more. What's the best way to abandon them that doesn't involve just leaving clipped wires hanging around under the chasis?

The molex connctor is gone. And as you can tell from the pictures, it looks like the capacitors have all been replaced. Kind of sad I don't get to do that, but I'll live.

I'm still confused by the "pilot light." Dummy question, but what is a pilot light? There is an on/off light there, but then there's also a thing on the top that says pilot light with two prongs. Was that just on on/off light that plugged into the two prongs on the chassis?

And I don't know what the hole that the new light is in was orignally for. It was all starting to click last night, but I'm getting a little lost again today.
 
I sleeve unused transformer wires, maybe attach to other wiring with a wire tie. Yes, the connection on top of the chassis went to a pilot light at the bottom front of the console. Might not have been used with a phono-only version that would shut off when a stack of records ended. New light is so that you can see that it's on from a distance.
 
Not function-critical but it looks nice. Also tubes don't glow bright enough for me to notice if I'm leaving the room and speaking as someone who has accidentally left amps on for days because of this I prefer something that stands some chance of getting my attention.
 
I just used the other lower amprage 6v winding for a pilot light in my 9303.
I did use the second 6v winding for the driver tubes in a 175 chassis that used 6V6 power tubes. I modified the amp to run 6L6's and needed the second 6v winding since I needed the extra current due to using 6L6's.
If I remember right, that second 6v winding is only good for 1amp, and the other is rated for 3amps?
 
pretty sure its good for more than 1A, the tuner has a fair number of tubes on it. Mine has been re-purposed as a bucking winding.
I see where several people used that winding as a bucker.
I built a different power supply so didn't need a bucking winding for B+ or the heaters. The heater voltage was fine in mine even with the modern 120v mains. I don't remember having an issue with the two 175 amp heater voltage either.
 
I was daydreaming of using those two wires for the tuner for a phono preamp. I guess the first step is to test them and see what kind of voltage they put out, but I figure if they went to a tuner they can run a phono section. I could also just pull of the main power line in if I want to run another transformer, so it's not make or break, but I like the concept of it.
 
I have two specific schematic questions:
First, this is just showing two halves of the preamp tubes (V1, V4) correct?

IMG_5511.jpeg
Second, these section of the schematic is showing a different V1-V6, and I can’t make sense of it. What am I missing?
IMG_5512.jpeg
 
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You can ditch that hum balance pot too connected to the heater string if you wish. Just replace it with two 100 ohm resistors to ground. One on each of the two heater wires.
 
You can ditch that hum balance pot too connected to the heater string if you wish. Just replace it with two 100 ohm resistors to ground. One on each of the two heater wires.

I just left the balance pot on my single ended Magnavox.
 
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I just didn't want to trust that old pot and maybe having the wiper lift.
I removed them in the two 6V6 175 amps I had too. None of those pots seemed to do anything anyway. I split the cathode as well. Using a separate resistor and a bypass cap for each pair of tubes instead of the single cathode resistor for all four. If you wanted, you could add fixed bias for each pair as well, being able to adjust the bias. If I remember right, I used
5 watt 220 ohm cathode resistors with 50uf or 100uf bypass caps.
The 9303 is the only Magnavox amp I have left. I think its the best sounding amp Magnavox came up with. It could just be that I really like EL84 tubes though.
 
If you ever see a modern computer drafted tube schematic that actually shows the heater wiring in the tube, you'll appreciate how much easier it is to read it this way.

The other common way to show it is to bring the heater out and have letters at the connection ane the matching letters at the transformer to indicate what ties where without actually drawing the wires in.

Lots of shortcuts get used in schematics to make them easier to follow but if you aren't used to it, translating it to the unit in front of you can be confusing.
 
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