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Marantz 1060 revisited

calman46

calman46

AK Subscriber
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I went back in to a 1060 I worked on 15 years ago or so. I had used some ixcon e-caps, so I replaced them all with good e-caps. All the e-caps are done including the large chassis mounted caps. All is working. I like to change the trimmers on my gear too but how far after that should I go on this 1060? I was thinking output transistors and drivers etc. too. I couldn't find much info the transistors in question track life, and will all replacements get along with each other in this 1060? I would like to stay with metal type transistors.
2sc595 = 2n3440 or 2n3439 heat sinked
2sa606 =2n5416 or NTE 397
2sc897- mj21194 or mj21196 outputs
Any suggestions? thanks
 
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The original trimmers always gave me fits. Many of them used in Marantz gear carbon up pretty bad and cleaning didn't workout to well. I restored two 1060's and a 1030 and the bias and offset tended to drift over a short amount of time.
So I just got to where I replaced them when working on Marantz gear.
As for transistors, just replace those pesky 458's. The 1060 only has a couple if I remember right, compared to the 1030 that had six or so total on the line stage and phono boards. The original output transistors should be just fine if working, replacements are a different case style than the original. The 1030 I restored about ten years ago is still going strong with the originals.
Maybe pull them and replace the thermal grease if it has dried out?
 
Yes 458's replaced. I'm already into the amp board. I will be moving this 1060 on and I had the parts. This is what I'm doing.
2SC959 = 2N3439 NOS
2SA606 = 2N5416 NOS
2SC897 = MJ21194, mica & paste
Bourns 3362H (1/4") trimmers
 
Out of all the '70's Marantz gear I've had, I kept one of the 1060's, a 112 tuner and a 140 power amp. All three go really well together.
I moved to tubes, ut just couldn't let go of the 1060.
 
My 1060 came with a 104 tuner and pristine original owner's manuals. I was going to use the 1060 as a headphone amp but that didn't happen, so I really didn't use either piece. My 1060 has had the power switch replaced with a toggle switch. Its mounted inside like the original, he did a nice job.
 
I finished wiring up the 3 large cans and I notice the schematic is different than the wiring on my 1060. I thought it might just be the way it was drawn, but I'm not sure. My 1060 does not have the connection between (P700) J726 and (P800) J808. An No connection between the NEG of C003 (4700UF) and (P800) J805. On my 1060 the NEG side of C003 has a chassis connection, boards P700 and P800 each have their own chassis ground connection also J725, J804. What do you think? Maybe the work of The Bean counters?
Screenshot 2022-08-12 184656.jpg
 
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There are mistakes in some manuals. Revisions are made during production of a model too. They rarely revise the schematic. Marantz was pretty good with service bulletins there for awhile. I always go by whats in the piece of equipment I'm working on over the schematic. I had two 1060's and there were a few differences. A few different resistor values etc. I would go by how the factory wired the one your working on, not the schematic. The 1030 I restored had a few differences from the schematic also. The 1030 for instance had main in and pre out jacks, a couple struts running from the back panel of the chassis to the front, and a metal cover over the phono stage. The later ones didn't have any of those.
 
Power up went well. I set the center voltage 27V each side and 13mV each side for bias. The left bias likes to fluctuate a little (0.20mV) but other that all stable.
 
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