MC 2505 2 Serial Number
- Thread starter Giordano
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twiiii
Lunatic Member
That's not a complete serial number. They used to stamp a back up number on the inside of the chassis, So remove the bottom and have a look. The unit was built between 63 and 66 according to the Mac compendium. I bought mine in early 64. It was a great little unit and surpassed my 40 watt rated Scott and fisher models. Nothing I ever owned met specs till I bought the little 230. I thought I needed more Power when I bought my Symphonies, but the 230 could push my Altec Coronados and Carmels till the walls almost shook. To bad it was noisy with most phono cartridges.. My Ortofons with 10 mv output solved that.
twiiii
Lunatic Member
Thats not a complete serial number. They used to place a back up number inside on the chassis. So remove the bottom and have a look. Mines one of the later models with the corrected VU range meter switch. They were produced from the late 60's to the late 70's. Check the Mac compendium accessible on this site for further details. I use mine to drive electro static head phones and a remote speaker pair. Check my photo here to the left. its below my MPI 4 in the lower center. I changed my knobs along time ago to match newer stuff.
clinic-audio
all on YAMAHA untill 1990
Hello Giordano
there is 14 different service manuals for the MC2505 .
Your's is a MC2505-2 ,
As for you serial number seems to be very important , tell us what the numbers "stamped" on driver boards input board and meter board.
With these numbers , I can which type it is .
There is no transistors on chassis , this detail decrease possibilities to talk about wrong model .
there is 14 different service manuals for the MC2505 .
Your's is a MC2505-2 ,
As for you serial number seems to be very important , tell us what the numbers "stamped" on driver boards input board and meter board.
With these numbers , I can which type it is .
There is no transistors on chassis , this detail decrease possibilities to talk about wrong model .
MACKIE1975
Super Member
MACKIE1975
Super Member
MACKIE1975
Super Member
I think those banana adapters put way to much stress on the hard plastic insulation blocks that are the molded part holding the screw connections together.
Lose the bananas and go to the tried and true proper sized "fork" connections.....tight, secure, and will handle more amps of current than any audio amp can actually produce.
Lose the bananas and go to the tried and true proper sized "fork" connections.....tight, secure, and will handle more amps of current than any audio amp can actually produce.
damacman
Resident Psycho
Agreed. Those brass adapters are garbage - the spades have 5mm openings and the screws are #6 (3.4mm dia). Also, tighten the banana receptacle too much (like a hair past snug) and they snap off.
Giordano
New Member
Here the boards numbers "stamped":
2 x driver boards - 043916
input board - 043795
meter board - 043711
the forks of my DIY adapters are 4 mm dia. they keep good contact and are designed for current up to 20A continuos. I think the MC 2505 can provide max around 3A (72W - 24V RMS), no current problem. The adapters also don't stress plastic blocks on the amp, they works straight, just like the cable without adapter and not with 90° angle.
The question is (but is only for my curiosity, the amp works fine, sounds nice and is in excellent electrical, mechanical and cosmetics conditions): why there is no serial number stamped on this unit?
Many thanks everybody.
Giordano.
2 x driver boards - 043916
input board - 043795
meter board - 043711
the forks of my DIY adapters are 4 mm dia. they keep good contact and are designed for current up to 20A continuos. I think the MC 2505 can provide max around 3A (72W - 24V RMS), no current problem. The adapters also don't stress plastic blocks on the amp, they works straight, just like the cable without adapter and not with 90° angle.
The question is (but is only for my curiosity, the amp works fine, sounds nice and is in excellent electrical, mechanical and cosmetics conditions): why there is no serial number stamped on this unit?
Many thanks everybody.
Giordano.
MACKIE1975
Super Member
It is not the tool fault. It is how you use it.
"why there is no serial number stamped on this unit?"
Who knows.... But it was not uncommon for stolen items to have the serial number removed so it could not be traced, or to keep McIntosh from finding out if a dealer illegally transshipped the unit.
Larry
Who knows.... But it was not uncommon for stolen items to have the serial number removed so it could not be traced, or to keep McIntosh from finding out if a dealer illegally transshipped the unit.
Larry
Mac did not stamp any serial numbers into the units metal.....the numbers were printed or silkscreened onto the unit.
As I understand it, when the production paperwork came out of the assembly area the paperwork went to Fran, who started a sheet that went into notebooks she kept at her desk. That serial numbered page would ultimately show to which dealer the unit was shipped and match up to the service contract that would be assigned to it, if the request was sent in.
If you saw how little plastic holds the captured threaded screw inserts in place you would understand my warning to stay away from such ackward connection devices......forks are best.
The fancy high margin golden extravagant ends put on by cable companies make a worse connection than a basic tried and true soldered on fork.
As I understand it, when the production paperwork came out of the assembly area the paperwork went to Fran, who started a sheet that went into notebooks she kept at her desk. That serial numbered page would ultimately show to which dealer the unit was shipped and match up to the service contract that would be assigned to it, if the request was sent in.
If you saw how little plastic holds the captured threaded screw inserts in place you would understand my warning to stay away from such ackward connection devices......forks are best.
The fancy high margin golden extravagant ends put on by cable companies make a worse connection than a basic tried and true soldered on fork.
With one exception, all of my amplifier connections are out of view so aesthetics have no bearing on it. The main reason was simply to make speaker connections easier and reduce the likelihood of shorts from errant strands, plus the fact that's almost impossible to use 12 AWG in the space allowed by the barrier strips without using a connector of some sort.
I will say they're not made of very good metal which is very soft and can be easily broken which happened on one of the spades. Yes the fork tines gave out before the barrier strip.
I will say they're not made of very good metal which is very soft and can be easily broken which happened on one of the spades. Yes the fork tines gave out before the barrier strip.
I side with the crimped terminal. Solder is okay after a good crimp, but solder is higher resistance so only there to make you feel good, I prefer the crimp connections with the liquid-seal heat-shrink.
Regarding the banana-plugs, I too would love to have them for convenience but am reluctant to put that much lever arm on the terminal strip, ... just an expensive little crowbar if your wires ever get pulled.
Regarding the banana-plugs, I too would love to have them for convenience but am reluctant to put that much lever arm on the terminal strip, ... just an expensive little crowbar if your wires ever get pulled.
