Measured my KLH Model Six's

FluxT

Super Member
Took advantage of a lazy Sunday and decided to try measuring my Model Six's in their unrestored state, just to see what they're putting out and how they'll improve once the woofers have been resealed and the crossover recapped. To minimize room resonances, interference, or phasing issues, I placed one speaker on a table, placed the microphone 1 ft away from the grill (kept on for this test), measured the woofer and tweeter on axis separately (and measured the tweeter in normal/dark/bright mode), and then combined the two into one graph. Bear in mind, this isn't the most scientific test nor an official declaration of what a KLH Model Six should sound like, although I did make sure to correct (roughly) for errors in my measuring microphone. A Yamaha CR620 powered the speaker, and a Blue Yeti omnidirectional USB mic was used to make the measurements. These particular Sixes are the later variants, dating from the late 1960s or early 1970s, with vinyl cabs (and serial starting in ASV6), removable drivers, and recessed terminals. I'm told that the earlier models, with epoxied drivers and hermetically sealed cabinets, sound a bit different.

KLH 6 Woofer.png
The woofer seems to have its greatest output between 70-500Hz before rolling off on either side, reaching its minimum output at 1,200Hz before bouncing back up and down again. I did not disconnect the tweeter during this test, so I'm unsure if anything above 1,200Hz is from the woofer or the tweeter. The -3dB points are roughly 46Hz and 1kHz, and the -10dB points are 38Hz and 1,240Hz.
Tweeter Settings.png
Here we're measuring the effect of the tweeter switch (normal/dark/bright). Bear in mind these are uncorrected measurements, included only to show the differences in output. The tweeter seems to start taking over around 900hz and the crossover point appears to be around 1.2-1.4kHz, right where the woofer tapers off. The woofer was not disconnected, so anything below that point is off-axis response from the woofer. The 1.75" cone tweeter gives a flat enough response in the normal position up to about 12k or so, albeit with some peaks and dips (the microphone may not have been perfectly on axis).
Bright Mode.png
In "Bright" mode, the tweeter output is generally raised by about +2-3dB from the "Normal" mode. The output seems to drop around 12k, which is either due to the nature of the tweeter, or the aging caps that will be replaced soon. Hopefully this switch has more of an effect once the new caps are put in.
Dark Mode.png
In "Dark" mode, the tweeter output is cut significantly across the board, by about -5dB. Not sure what the hump at 2-3kHz is.

Adding it all up
Normal Mode.png
Dark Mode.png
Bright Mode.png
In "Normal" mode, this KLH Six is a fairly flat speaker, barring some bumps around 100Hz and 2,000Hz, which could simply be due to placement or errors in my mic that weren't properly corrected. The -3dB points appear to be at 44Hz and 16.5kHz, which sounds about right for an old East Coast speaker, and pretty decent for 50 year old caps. It'll be interesting to see how this changes once the new caps and sealant are installed. Going by my own ears, I can get output up to 18khz out of these, although it is VERY beamy, thanks to the tweeter being a large paper cone. Overall balance and clarity are very good, and the music takes on that magical honeyed glow that you can just listen to for hours on end.
 
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Interesting.
I’ve owned both early 1963 with epoxied woofers, and late, 1972
with vinyl clad cabs at the same time. I believe vinyl was used only the last year or two before production ended in 72.
They sound the same except the 63’s go tad deeper due to the longer excursion of the epoxy mounted woofers. Tweeters sound the same. I still have the 63’s, which one has the epoxy mounted tweeter, one has the screw mounted tweeter. This was the year of the transition to the screw mounted tweeters. I got these from the original 1963 owner.
A recap and surround reseal makes a huge improvement in their performance.

Glenn
 
Interesting.
I’ve owned both early 1963 with epoxied woofers, and late, 1972 with vinyl clad cabs at the same time. I believe vinyl was used only the last year or two before production ended in 72.
Interesting, the official history thread here says that Model Six production ended around 1977 or 1978, and I think I read elsewhere that they switched to vinyl-covered cabinets after Singer purchased KLH in the mid/late '60s. 1972 seems like a more likely cut-off date, just going by aesthetics. Mine have, as far as I know, no date codes, but the serial numbers are ASV615000 or so. Any chance you can recall your serial numbers?
 
Yours are way at the end-ish of production (highest serial no. I
have seen). I have very few dates tied to serials, so I don't know
how end-ish.

Good job on the measurements, btw. Nice to have some kind of
reference now.
 
Yours are way at the end-ish of production (highest serial no. I
have seen). I have very few dates tied to serials, so I don't know
how end-ish.

Good job on the measurements, btw. Nice to have some kind of
reference now.

Thanks! I must stress again that this is a very unscientific test, done with a crudely-connected generic USB microphone and in a non-soundproofed room (with gardeners doing yardwork outside, I might add!). It would be interesting to see someone else measure theirs and see how the graphs match up.

028B7DB8-F23E-481E-9F02-ECD9D649F92A.jpeg
To be more specific, they’re Model 6V’s, and the serial numbers are ASV615555 and something close to that. Read somewhere that KLH averaged 15k a year during production, so I would assume these would date from about a year after KLH switched over to the AS_6 nomenclature. When I pull the old Temple caps, I’ll check for a date code.

These are HEAVY suckers, even heavier than the real walnut models according to those who own both. This seems rather strange, given that one would think vinyl-on-particle-board would be a fair bit lighter than real walnut cabs. Whatever KLH would have saved in materials would have easily been offset by the added shipping costs.

It’s also worth noting that KLH later reused the “6V” name for a set of high-end towers in the early ‘90s.
 
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To be more specific, they’re Model 6V’s, and the serial numbers are ASV615555 and something close to that. Read somewhere that KLH averaged 15k a year during production, so I would assume these would date from about a year after KLH switched over to the AS_6 nomenclature. When I pull the old Temple caps, I’ll check for a date code.

These are HEAVY suckers, even heavier than the real walnut models according to those who own both. This seems rather strange, given that one would think vinyl-on-particle-board would be a fair bit lighter than real walnut cabs. Whatever KLH would have saved in materials would have easily been offset by the added shipping costs.

It’s also worth noting that KLH later reused the “6V” name for a set of high-end towers in the early ‘90s.
The Walnut cabs were mostly Plywood, or that other wood composite I can never remember what it's called. My Six's are one of each.

The later particle board cabs are much heavier.
Glenn
 
Thank you for taking measurements of the Sixes! I've been meaning to pick up a pair of these. They still can go for rather cheap, even in today's overpriced vintage market. The salvation army eBay store has some going for $99 at the moment. Is there a way to quickly tell the early version from the later without removing the grills?
 
Thank you for taking measurements of the Sixes! I've been meaning to pick up a pair of these. They still can go for rather cheap, even in today's overpriced vintage market. The salvation army eBay store has some going for $99 at the moment. Is there a way to quickly tell the early version from the later without removing the grills?

Without removing the grill, one way to determine the style of a Model Six is by serial number and by feeling for the tweeter screws. With the early models you can press in around the tweeter grill opening and feel for the screw heads.

I have early Sixes with the integral grill and screwed in tweeters. My highest serial number is 078,722. I have seen reports that serial numbers greater than 93,000 are the later style. My second pair of Sixes are the later style with the lowest serial number being 102,563.

A confirmed early model with glued in tweeter has serial number 64,162.
For more info, see https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/klh-6-year-id.735777/#post-9963302
 
I picked up a pair of late run vinyl clads a few weeks ago. Just re-doped the surrounds on the woofers and recapped them. Have yet to test them, but am looking forward to firing them up this Thanksgiving weekend. I must say, they did a great job on the vinyl - extremely tight and accurate corners. Just wish they were wood veneer...

Amazing similarities to a pair of AR’s I’ve been working on, even down to the screw-down binding posts...
 
I’m eager to spend some quality time with my Sixes over the Thanksgiving weekend, especially with my to-be-recapped HK430. It’s gonna be absolutely delightful, I’m sure!

It’s honestly quelled my lust for a better speaker. Sure, I’d love to try AR’s or Wharfedale or ADS, but I cannot really envision myself owning a pair. They just...fit me. That’s honestly probably the best lesson I’ve learned in this hobby. It’s not about owning the highest end kit or the rarest of the rare, or having the most, it’s about finding the one that fits your needs best. At least, for me it is. Now to find *the* amp and all that.

The only way I’m selling ‘em is if I find some ones with the real veneer, or some 23’s enter my life. In the long run, it’ll probably just be cheaper for me to buy a sheet of cherry veneer and a spend a day in the garage peeling off the old vinyl and applying the new veneer sheets. $30-50 for veneer what I’ve already got vs. what, $100-200 for speakers that I’ll have to restore all over again?
 
I’m eager to spend some quality time with my Sixes over the Thanksgiving weekend, especially with my to-be-recapped HK430. It’s gonna be absolutely delightful, I’m sure!

It’s honestly quelled my lust for a better speaker. Sure, I’d love to try AR’s or Wharfedale or ADS, but I cannot really envision myself owning a pair. They just...fit me. That’s honestly probably the best lesson I’ve learned in this hobby. It’s not about owning the highest end kit or the rarest of the rare, or having the most, it’s about finding the one that fits your needs best. At least, for me it is. Now to find *the* amp and all that.

The only way I’m selling ‘em is if I find some ones with the real veneer, or some 23’s enter my life. In the long run, it’ll probably just be cheaper for me to buy a sheet of cherry veneer and a spend a day in the garage peeling off the old vinyl and applying the new veneer sheets. $30-50 for veneer what I’ve already got vs. what, $100-200 for speakers that I’ll have to restore all over again?
I'd agree with this. It's what works for you that matters, nothing else. I feel the same way about my Model Fives, but would have been perfectly happy with my Sixes if I hadn't stupidly sold them years ago.
 
I’m eager to spend some quality time with my Sixes over the Thanksgiving weekend, especially with my to-be-recapped HK430. It’s gonna be absolutely delightful, I’m sure!

It’s honestly quelled my lust for a better speaker. Sure, I’d love to try AR’s or Wharfedale or ADS, but I cannot really envision myself owning a pair. They just...fit me. That’s honestly probably the best lesson I’ve learned in this hobby. It’s not about owning the highest end kit or the rarest of the rare, or having the most, it’s about finding the one that fits your needs best. At least, for me it is. Now to find *the* amp and all that.

I feel the same way. I've bought many speakers the past two years. So far, I like my Model Sixes best. So much, that I bought a second pair for my home office.
 
I've got 2.5 pairs of Sixes, but only 1 pair is fully restored. Just love them. The 0.5 pair is a rare blonde/birch very early Six singleton that I'm hoping to find a mate for someday.
 
I happened across a pair of Model Sixes on ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/163928865123 and since they were in my neighborhood, I picked them up for a hundred bucks. They were originally sold in July of 1960. They are in remarkable condition for speakers that are going on 60 years old. The cabinets are in great shape and the tweeters and woofers are working in both speakers. They sound OK but a little muted. I did enough research before purchasing them to know restoration on the early sixes would be a chore. I'm really torn between digging in to the project or keeping them as-is since they are in such remarkable condition for their age. Any thoughts about how to proceed would be appreciated? Thanks in advance...
 
I happened across a pair of Model Sixes on ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/163928865123 and since they were in my neighborhood, I picked them up for a hundred bucks. They were originally sold in July of 1960. They are in remarkable condition for speakers that are going on 60 years old. The cabinets are in great shape and the tweeters and woofers are working in both speakers. They sound OK but a little muted. I did enough research before purchasing them to know restoration on the early sixes would be a chore. I'm really torn between digging in to the project or keeping them as-is since they are in such remarkable condition for their age. Any thoughts about how to proceed would be appreciated? Thanks in advance...

Basic (relatively easy) refurbishments that will bring them back to life would be to replace the capacitors, and reseal the woofer surrounds. Between the sealer (available on the Bay, or by one of our AK members) and the capacitors, probably about a $50 cost - if you do it yourself.

From my vantage point, keeping them “as-is” is a disservice to the speakers and to YOU. Kind of like keeping old oil in a car because it’s considered “vintage oil”...
 
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... They sound OK but a little muted...
Which is why most folks bother with going inside them.
However, you also have the option of adding your own tweeter and disconnecting the internal one if
you just don't want to mess with it. You still would almost certainly notice an improvement in low end
to dope the woofer surrounds, which requires trashing the grill cloth.
 
I appreciate your feedback. I've owned classic cars that could certainly be improved by upgrades but there was value in the originality, not just the performance. I'm getting that this logic does not seem to be applicable to vintage speakers. I doubt the Model Sixes will ever sound as good as my JBL 4311s so I think I'll enjoy them for what they are, at least for now. Thanks again for your perspective.
 
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