Recapping Begins
Time to start the recap with what I have on hand and check for bad solder joints, loose ground connections, etc. Someone's been in it before because that orange axial cap in the 3rd photo should be a radial cap next to the other 3 light blue ones in the 4th photo. Those blue ones are Nichicons, whereas everything else was Elna. There's also a pair of black caps that look non original. I've also found some lifted solder tabs on the tuner board, so I'm having to do some point-to-point wiring along the circuit traces to make sure that isn't causing the lack of FM.
The PDF of the basic version is nice in that it lists tolerance changes that can be made for the caps, i.e. 3.3uF/50V +150% -10%. Comparing the schematic that came with the manual, and what's actually in the unit reveals that it looks like in many instances they already did that at the factory. For instance the main filter caps are 4700uF/35V according to the schematic, but what's in there are 5600uF/35V. Unfortunately, those caps are the old style 4pin with 22.5mm lead spacing. Most of the modern caps use snap in terminals with 10mm spacing.
So my possible options for the main filter caps are:
1 - Go with the snap-ins by bending one lug and running an extender wire to the other connection point. This allows me to use TSHA or KMH series caps at 5600uF/50V.
2 - Re-stuff the cans with the above cap choice doing the wiring internally. Possibly more stable this way, but definitely more work.
3 - Use 4700uF caps like the schematic calls for. I could then use standard radial lead caps like the Nichicon PW series since the leads would be long enough. This is the easiest solution but will decrease filtering capacity unless I parallel with a 1000uF cap somewhere.
If it were yours, how would you proceed?
Are there other options you can think of?
I'd like to stay with the high temp, low ESR caps like the TSHA, PM, PW or KMH, and I want to bypass them with film, so I'll need the space for those too.
