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Mitsubishi LT-20 in the house

kotofei

permanent gear evolution
Subscriber
Greetings everyone,

Some time ago I’ve got a Mitsubishi LT-20 linear tracking TT from a semi-local guy (see the thread here: http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=273048). She sat for a while in the queue and finally I got my hands on her yesterday.

The turntable powers up and the platter was rotating; however, the tonearm did not move from the armrest to the record. A sound of working motor was heard but no movement.

I opened her up and the reason for such behavior was obvious: both of rubber belts were missed (see pics). ASSuming that little pieces of belts that left attached to wheels will be easily removed, I pulled one… that was my introduction to the infamous “belt goo” issue.

This afternoon, using ethyl alcohol and a lot of Q-tips, I removed the last traces of goo.

A usual question to the community – what except belts might need attention (i.e., replacement or adjustment or lubrication or resoldering etc) in this turntable? All the mechanics looks good to me; there are no broken plastic parts etc. The cartridge, Micro Acoustics 3002, is missing the stylus but I’ll use my Denon DL-160 for the test purposes.

Another question – I found belts for the LT-20 on the Web for $11 or so. However, in a thread here someone mentioned that belts from the computer CD opening-closing mechanisms might fit. Any experience with them?

Thanks,

I will keep posted how this restoration project will proceed.
 

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Actually this is the easiest belt to replace. Any belt of proper size will work. From CD drive tray opener or from walkman, etc. Or even the rubber band.

The toughest one is the one that lifts the tonearm (at least in LT-30 TT).
 
Mistubishi LT-20/22 Resources

A usual question to the community – what except belts might need attention (i.e., replacement or adjustment or lubrication or resoldering etc) in this turntable? All the mechanics looks good to me; there are no broken plastic parts etc. The cartridge, Micro Acoustics 3002, is missing the stylus but I’ll use my Denon DL-160 for the test purposes.

Another question – I found belts for the LT-20 on the Web for $11 or so. However, in a thread here someone mentioned that belts from the computer CD opening-closing mechanisms might fit. Any experience with them?

The LT-20/22 uses (2) belts to control the movement of the tonearm. I have had good results with this source for these belts: http://www.turntableneedles.com/-TURNTABLE--RECORD-PLAYER--PHONOGRAPH_c_45.html Price per belt is $4.95; shipping is reasonable and an alcohol cleaning pad is included.

I replaced the original headshell with a Sumiko HS-12 headshell which includes very high-quality headshell wires. Here is a good source for this headshell: http://www.musicdirect.com/product/52354

The Micro-Acoustics 3002 Cartridge was a great cartridge but a replacement stylus is very difficult to find. I am using a Precept PC550ML cartridge which is similar to the Audio Technica x40/x50/x55/x60 line.

Both the Owner and the Service Manual are available in PDF form at Vinyl Engine: http://www.vinylengine.com/library/mitsubishi/lt-20.shtml

Be careful cleaning the front control trim panel. It looks like metal but it is actually plated plastic.

Please join this recent thread on upgrading Mitsubishi LT-20/22 TT at AK: http://audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=275944
 
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One of the biggest issues with the LT-20/22 (I have 2) is the plastic wheels that "ride the rail" the tonearm travels on. If it is shipped w/o the fixing screws in place, the wheel can develop flat spots or the axle/shaft can crack. It is easily inspected when changing the belts. A fix if yours is broken is a bit harder. I always put a VERY thin film of phonolube on the rail, to dampen vibration from the arm moving. Also, not just ANY belt will work. Too tight or too thick a belt and the motor movement will be VERY slow. The lightest belt that works is best. Also do not EVER use a Zerostat gun on a record while on the LT. It will easily blow the chips, position bulbs, or receiving diode detector. Don't ask me how I know. BTW, a V15III with a Jico stylus is a great combo in this TT. I have two different MAs with low hour styli, as well, 2002e and the MA530mp. Styli for them are not hard to find at all. They are impossible to find. They're OK, but can't compete with the V15 IMHO, so I use them for comparisons..
 
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Another great cart for this turntable is the Audio Technica AT-150mlx. I really love that cart on my LT-20.
 
Great Post

One of the biggest issues with the LT-20/22 (I have 2) is the plastic wheels that "ride the rail" the tonearm travels on. If it is shipped w/o the fixing screws in place, the wheel can develop flat spots or the axle/shaft can crack. It is easily inspected when changing the belts. A fix if yours is broken is a bit harder. I always put a VERY thin film of phonolube on the rail, to dampen vibration from the arm moving. Also, not just ANY belt will work. Too tight or too thick a belt and the motor movement will be VERY slow. The lightest belt that works is best. Also do not EVER use a Zerostat gun on a record while on the LT. It will easily blow the chips, position bulbs, or receiving diode detector. Don't ask me how I know. BTW, a V15III with a Jico stylus is a great combo in this TT. I have two different MAs with low hour styli, as well, 2002e and the MA530mp. Styli for them are not hard to find at all. They are impossible to find. They're OK, but can't compete with the V15 IMHO, so I use them for comparisons..

Thank you for these valuable "words of wisdom" about the LT-20/22 series TT.

I wish there was a way the we could capture all of these "tips" from AK fans of the LT-20/22 into one thread. :scratch2:
 
Thank you for advices Perry,


I ordered two belts that eThink recommended from turntableneedles.com. The plastic wheels on my LT-20 doesn't have visible cracks; I instructed the seller to screw those two screws in tonearm mounts and that's what he did. I didn't see any flat spots on wheels either but since I didn't look specifically for them, wheels will be re-examined.

The stylus for MA 3002 could be found at the turntableneedles.com, for example, but it costs almost like the LT-20 itself so I passed on it.

What is the "Phonolube" that you described?

Thanks




One of the biggest issues with the LT-20/22 (I have 2) is the plastic wheels that "ride the rail" the tonearm travels on. If it is shipped w/o the fixing screws in place, the wheel can develop flat spots or the axle/shaft can crack. It is easily inspected when changing the belts. A fix if yours is broken is a bit harder. I always put a VERY thin film of phonolube on the rail, to dampen vibration from the arm moving. Also, not just ANY belt will work. Too tight or too thick a belt and the motor movement will be VERY slow. The lightest belt that works is best. Also do not EVER use a Zerostat gun on a record while on the LT. It will easily blow the chips, position bulbs, or receiving diode detector. Don't ask me how I know. BTW, a V15III with a Jico stylus is a great combo in this TT. I have two different MAs with low hour styli, as well, 2002e and the MA530mp. Styli for them are not hard to find at all. They are impossible to find. They're OK, but can't compete with the V15 IMHO, so I use them for comparisons..
 
This is a great site for TT stuff, in general. Phonolube found here. http://www.turntablebasics.com/

The belts ethink referenced are good belts.

If the seller still had the shipping screws, that's amazing! I still have one set, but then I bought my first LT-20 brand new when they came out in 1981, and so I still have everything it came with including the original box as well. Hang on to those screws!

I've not found any replacement styli for MA carts anywhere, including turntableneedles.com
 
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Update:

The belts from turntableneedles.com finally arrived and I installed both of them.

Now after pressing "start" the tonearm rises from its resting position, moves to the edge of the record and goes down. Upon pressing "stop", this sequence is played in reverse. The tonearm could be just raised and lowered using the "lift/cue" button and then moved to the desired part of the record by pressing "Start".

I installed some old cartridge into the headshell and played a “suicide record”. The Mitsubishi played it without apparent problems and the tonearm comes back to the rest at the end.

So, apparently all the mechanics work… The tonearm after lifting rotates a little bit in the horizontal direction, by 5 or so degrees left and right. This rotation requires little or no force so I assume it’s a bearing in the base of the tonearm and this rotation is OK.


I did not connect the TT to the system yet; just need to replace this old cart with the Denon DL-160 and set up the overhead at 50 mm. By the way, where one can get an English version of the User Manual? The one at VinylEngine is in German/French.

Needles for the MA cartridges are available at turntableneedles.com: http://www.turntableneedles.com/MICRO-ACOUSTICS_c_25322.html

For example, the Needle 571-DE is a replacement for my MA 3002 but priced at $177.95.

I'll keep you updated on this project.
 
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Second update:

I am using the LT-20 for a week and a half now and I should say I like this turntable. I used it first with some old Sansui cartridge but it sounded good even with it. Then I installed Denon DL-160 and it’s just sounds great.

One of the annoying problems that I had with my other TT, Sansui XR-Q11, was a distortion of saxophone sound especially if the sax plays together with other instruments. I could not get rid of this problem despite few attempts. With the LT-20 and the same DL-160 cart, it’s gone and the sax sound is clear.

However, I noticed another problem with my LT-20: wrong azimuth angle (see picture). The Denon Dl-160 has a vertical strip on it that should be in-line with its reflection if a cartridge is lowered on a mirror. In my case, this is not so.

There is no reference in the service manual how to change the azimuth. The headshell doesn’t allow it. Anyone knows how to rotate the tonearm tube, or is it another way to fix this problem?
 

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[QUOTE=kotofei;By the way, where one can get an English version of the User Manual? The one at VinylEngine is in German/French.

Hmmmmm...just checked and both manuals (OM & SM) are in English. Try again??
 
kotofei,

Last night while listening to music I remembered this thread and checked the tone arm of the turntable.
There are two locking screws underneath the front of the tone arm just for this purpose.
Don't forget to tighten up the screws after your adjustments.
 
Hi guys,

I have an issue here. I just got a very nice looking LT-20, though a silver one, which Mitsubishi shiped a lot to Europe. Whatever, the issue is that the light goes on, but then nothing happens. I mean neither the motor start moving, nor the Tonearm moves in position. I have pushed all the buttons, and removed the screw that was fixing the tonearm....Any ideas? And yes I have read the instruction, but not found any solution to my issue?

HELP! :(
 
Thank you Earl,

I located them; however, I don't know how to unscrew them without removing the tonearm. It can be removed but, according to the service manual, it's a BIG pain in the neck.

The other possibility that I see is to get a screwdriver bent at the right angle and use it for this job.

Any other ideas?

Thanks

kotofei,

Last night while listening to music I remembered this thread and checked the tone arm of the turntable.
There are two locking screws underneath the front of the tone arm just for this purpose.
Don't forget to tighten up the screws after your adjustments.
 
The other possibility that I see is to get a screwdriver bent at the right angle and use it for this job.

I put a small mirror underneath the the tone arm.
The screws appears to have a very small slot in the head.
A thin strip of metal or a not too sharp knife edge should be able to fit into the slot.
See if that would work.:yes:
 
Thanks Earl. I will try this tomorrow.


The other possibility that I see is to get a screwdriver bent at the right angle and use it for this job.

I put a small mirror underneath the the tone arm.
The screws appears to have a very small slot in the head.
A thin strip of metal or a not too sharp knife edge should be able to fit into the slot.
See if that would work.:yes:
 
Unfortunately, that did not work. The screws are small Philips ones and require Philips screwdriver head. I ordered some small Philips bits, they are approximately half-inch long and fit under the tonearm.

Will keep posted.

The other possibility that I see is to get a screwdriver bent at the right angle and use it for this job.

I put a small mirror underneath the the tone arm.
The screws appears to have a very small slot in the head.
A thin strip of metal or a not too sharp knife edge should be able to fit into the slot.
See if that would work.:yes:
 
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