I didn’t say they were “burnt out,” I said that one of the getters is black above a line through it near the upper mica, and that the other one is a weird light grey that looks almost white under bright light, while two have nice, shiny silver getters. I haven’t plugged them into my Hickok yet.Are the tubes you describe as "burnt out" tested not working? Not all getter material is bright and shiny, especially vintage tubes. I've seen murky or translucent looking getters on vintage tubes that test new. Not necessarily a sign of wear, unless it's chalky white...
I’m not sure which socket each tube was in. They were caked in grime when I pulled them before loading the cabinet, I couldn’t see much of anything about the condition of the getters before I washed the tubes off. I rarely wash tubes in the sink, but these were an exception. I haven’t touched the Telefunken 12A_7s from the amp yet, as I don’t want to obliterate their markings in a bath. (The four Telefunkens in the preamp were beautifully clean inside their annoying spring-wrap shields.)This circuit is relatively simple and conventional.
This amplifier worked well despite the high voltages and simplistic screens supply until it failed. The solution was to install a 5U4G to reduce the sudden abnormal high voltage that caused the destruction of 2 EL84 (just guessing).
If all components supplying voltage and bias current to the now-roasted output tubes meet their specifications, it may be worth checking whether the output transformer of that channel is still working; output transformers react poorly to short circuits or to the absence of a load.
Other members may have better suggestions.
I’ll test some components and report back. I’m not at all opposed to tweaking circuits for better behavior.true, thats just from schematic voltages, its going to run even hotter now with higher line voltage.
That 120 ohm resistor was too small even when new. Datasheet at 300v plate and screen calls for 130 ohms, and this is 335 plate and screen to cathode.
Thats another reason I'd probably go EFB here rather than making a negative supply. It won't add plate voltage by making the cathode zero volts. Its already high enough.

I suspect it’s gassy, but I haven’t checked yet. It’s just not that chalk white “gone to air” color.that very light getter still makes me suspect air or at least gas.
not sure the dark one means anything specific, usually when they are badly overheated they get a brown sort of look to them. They all look like GE tubes though, normally the color within a brand is fairly consistent. In the pic the two on the right look about the same to me.
fair guess leaky coupling caps and other usual issues exist here too.