Need an affordable Tube Tester

mark long

Active Member
I am needing to test some original vintage tubes but do not have a tester. Preferably one with GM Values...Is there anything "modern" i can pickup under 150$? This vintage tube receiver I'm going to start on is new ground for me...hell, i'm OK with buying new tubes if that makes more sense dollar wise.

All the tubes: 16BZ6, 6AQ8, 66A12A, 6AQ8, 6BA6 (X3), 12AU7, 6BL8, 6BM8 (X3)
 
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Mark,
My first tube tester was one of those Sencore Drug Store Tube Testers. It was pretty much a "go-no-go" tester. It would test for shorts and if the tube was "Good" or "Bad".
I think its design goal was to sell more tubes. Not the most analytical instrument I've ever owned and I simply gave it away to a friend. Wouldn't take a penny from him.

Next and current tester is a Western Electric badged military version of a Hickok (539C?). In addition to the whole "Good/Bad" thing (scale is in Mohms) and "shorts test", I can measure plate, grid and cathode currents. I think this makes matching tubes a little more accurate At Tested Volts. I stress the volt thing because the best way to test a tube is while it's being tested at its operating voltages. Pretty sure no tube tester can do that unless you build it yourself.

If you're going to "get into tubes" as I did, I think you might consider increasing your budget. I gave away that Sencore because it was rendered useless after I picked up my WE.

BTW..I had to repair and calibrate my WE (what a rabbit hole that was). I didn't mind because I learned so much. If you're a hands on guy and want to understand how tubes work...fix a tube tester. If I was more into this hobby and had the space, I'd probably build my own for the experience.

If you get a good unit, it will appreciate in value over time. Military units seem well built and hold value. If I didn't have my WE, I'd probably look at something in the Hickok TV-7 series. See what testers the used tube sellers are using.

Good Luck!

Rich
 
Mark,
My first tube tester was one of those Sencore Drug Store Tube Testers. It was pretty much a "go-no-go" tester. It would test for shorts and if the tube was "Good" or "Bad".
I think its design goal was to sell more tubes. Not the most analytical instrument I've ever owned and I simply gave it away to a friend. Wouldn't take a penny from him.

Next and current tester is a Western Electric badged military version of a Hickok (539C?). In addition to the whole "Good/Bad" thing (scale is in Mohms) and "shorts test", I can measure plate, grid and cathode currents. I think this makes matching tubes a little more accurate At Tested Volts. I stress the volt thing because the best way to test a tube is while it's being tested at its operating voltages. Pretty sure no tube tester can do that unless you build it yourself.

If you're going to "get into tubes" as I did, I think you might consider increasing your budget. I gave away that Sencore because it was rendered useless after I picked up my WE.

BTW..I had to repair and calibrate my WE (what a rabbit hole that was). I didn't mind because I learned so much. If you're a hands on guy and want to understand how tubes work...fix a tube tester. If I was more into this hobby and had the space, I'd probably build my own for the experience.

If you get a good unit, it will appreciate in value over time. Military units seem well built and hold value. If I didn't have my WE, I'd probably look at something in the Hickok TV-7 series. See what testers the used tube sellers are using.

Good Luck!

Rich
Thanks Rich very detailed account of your history in this area. valuable to the community as a whole. In my specific case this is an "unknown" project. I know the receiver powers on (Sansui SM-320m) but does not tune. That aside, this is a keeper for the collection and I do not envision this being an area I jump into beyond this one rebuild. I will definitely throw each of the 13 tubes on the multi-meter as a starting point however as you noted above, there are far more valuable metrics I need to obtain. I believe I could bump up the budget some. I've been looking at this one (doesnt have GM #'s but has Mutal Conductance) https://www.ebay.com/itm/165555344264
 
Honestly you probably could buy a set of known good tubes for less than a tube tester if you're really just using it for this one project. Good testers are pricey, especially working and calibrated. Another option is to pay to use someone else's tester. There might be people on here who would test your tubes for free (or a small fee) if you paid shipping there and back. Since you're a subscriber you could post a WTB on Barter Town for tube testing and get them tested in something proper like a TV-7 for probably like 50 bucks.

I'd do it myself but unfortunately my tester isn't that great and is awaiting repair.
 
You won't be able to test the RF performance of tubes with a tester. The only valid test is substitution. I would buy new tubes and forget the tester for a project like this.

Jack
 
In my specific case this is an "unknown" project. I know the receiver powers on (Sansui SM-320m) but does not tune. That aside, this is a keeper for the collection and I do not envision this being an area I jump into beyond this one rebuild. I will definitely throw each of the 13 tubes on the multi-meter as a starting point
Most of the types you list are in the tuner section. If the problem is that it "doesn't tune" the issue may be more involved than simply replacing the tubes.

I know zilch about tube tuners. I have some and they work but I know not to mess with them. When I first got into tube gear an old, retired, tech (RIP "Uncle Bill") helped me out. He told me he didn't do any work on tuners any more because he had sold all of the expensive specialized test equipment that he said he would need in order to properly repair and align them.

The 6BM8s are the power output tubes and there should be 4 of them, not 3. The only test you can make on a tube with a multi-meter is to check the continuity of the heater. Of course, if it lights up when you power it on you already know that the heater is working. You can, of course, check voltages to see if they are in spec as well as other parts like resistors. There are high voltages present, which can kill you, so please don't just start poking around. Do some research.

IMO, it doesn't make sense to spend money on a tube tester if this is the only tube project you anticipate being involved with. If you ask around, you can probably find someone locally who will test the tubes for you. Ask on here or go to a local music store and ask. Guitar amps make up the vast majority of tube gear so someone who repairs them will often have a tester. It's much less likely that they would have any experience with tube tuners but you might get lucky.
 
there's a ton on the bay that are affordable but might need new caps, diodes, resistors. got an eico 667 for a c-note or less and it just needed 2 caps, 2 diodes and 2 resistors. gives a general idea to strength and checks for leakage. have returned many tubes back from sellers claiming: new, good, matched, no leakage...
 
there's a ton on the bay that are affordable but might need new caps, diodes, resistors. got an eico 667 for a c-note or less and it just needed 2 caps, 2 diodes and 2 resistors. gives a general idea to strength and checks for leakage. have returned many tubes back from sellers claiming: new, good, matched, no leakage...
Thanks FlaCharlie, raycarr, and heyraz. I agree with you. I have a guy down in Tampa who works on tube equipment. If I cant figure this one out without something very simple I'm taking it to him. It's too nice of a vintage rare piece to mess up with my lack of knowledge in this area. If it were a more modern receiver I'd be fine but this is a different story.
 
there's a ton on the bay that are affordable but might need new caps, diodes, resistors. got an eico 667 for a c-note or less and it just needed 2 caps, 2 diodes and 2 resistors. gives a general idea to strength and checks for leakage. have returned many tubes back from sellers claiming: new, good, matched, no leakage...
There are certainly plenty of testers on eBay but unless you're working on tube gear regularly and buying a significant number of tubes there's not much point in buying a tester and using it for a one-time restoration project.

As for the Eico . . . I have an Eico 666, which is essentially the same tester except that it has sockets to test older 4, 5 and 6 pin tubes.

These were sold as "Dynamic Conductance" testers, not "mutual conductance". While they're a step above a common emissions tester, neither the 666 nor the 667 will give you a reading for mutual conductance, so they can't be used to match tubes for mutual conductance. Like most testers, they also won't give you a reading for current draw which can be important when matching output tubes. The importance of this varies, depending on the circuit.

Like a basic emissions tester the Eicos give you a Bad / ? / Good reading. But they're not much use when it comes to matching.

So if you've returned tubes that were sold as "matched" because their readings on the Eico didn't match each other, it's very possible that you returned some tubes that did have matching mutual conductance readings on a true mutual conductance tester.

The best thing about them is their ability to test for heater to cathode leakage. Most testers will give you a "short / no short" reading but the Eicos will actually measure lower levels of leakage. The instructions also tell you what level of leakage is considered "acceptable" for different types of tubes. So some tubes that show no short on another tester may be perfectly usable even though a small amount of leakage can be detected by the Eicos. And a seller who claims a tube has no shorts is not necessarily being dishonest.

Their downside is that the charts that show the settings for each tube type are full of errors. There are different versions of the settings and sometimes the settings are wildly different and they return different results. Even the ones that were published as "corrected" settings are not totally reliable.

If a seller claims a tube is tested they should tell you what tester was used and what the results were. If a seller that uses one of these Eicos, or a basic emissions tester, claims to be selling "matched" tubes then they clearly don't understand the limitations of their testers. The tubes may be fine but don't count on them being matched in any meaningful way.

I consider the test results posted by sellers (such as on eBay) to be ballpark figures. I still use my Eico but I was lucky enough to find a Hickok, which is now my main tester. The mutual conductance readings it gives are always very close to what sellers advertise, even when the seller is using a different Hickok model or even a different brand of mutual conductance tester. Even two testers that are exactly the same can give slightly different readings.

Bottom line is that, while testers are useful, they all have their limitations and the performance of the tube in the equipment (amp, preamp, tuner, etc) under actual operating conditions is what really counts.
 
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an eico's not a Hickok for sure and far from perfect, but it's a means of not going in blind. allows for gauging of a new tube as it deteriorates and for a reference point to older ones.
 
an eico's not a Hickok for sure and far from perfect, but it's a means of not going in blind. allows for gauging of a new tube as it deteriorates and for a reference point to older ones.
Absolutely. As long as you know their limitations they're a good basic tester.

It was all I had for many years until I happened to come across a Hickok 600A being sold at an auction about an hour away. Unlike eBay, there's not typically much interest in tube testers or vintage tube gear in general at local auctions. Only one other person bid on the Hickok and I picked it up for a little over $100. I'm sure I paid more for the Eico on eBay.

These days I use it mostly for testing rectifier tubes and it's better at testing heater to cathode leakage and shorts than the Hickok.
 
Yeah, local sales (especially CL) are a good way to get dirt cheap tube testers. I picked up a PACO 954 from a guy's basement for $40.
 
Pretty sure no tube tester can do that unless you build it yourself.

Pretty sure my currently purchasable $$$$ Amplitrex brand1000A tests all the audio tubes that its capable of complete testing, at full high voltages, but its not available anywhere in the price range that the OP wants to spend !

My almost 20 yr. old Maximatcher brand, which is a output tubes only type tester, also tests at 400 volts, as well !
 
I remember seeing a pic (maybe on here?) of a big vintage tester with five or six tubes that someone said did full plate voltage and significant current. Looked really cool -- wonder if anyone knows/remembers what that was.
 
Pretty sure my currently purchasable $$$$ Amplitrex brand1000A tests all the audio tubes that its capable of complete testing, at full high voltages, but its not available anywhere in the price range that the OP wants to spend !

My almost 20 yr. old Maximatcher brand, which is a output tubes only type tester, also tests at 400 volts, as well !
Those make sense for a professional tech, such as yourself, or a large tube dealer. For a hobbyist, not so much.
 
Those make sense for a professional tech, such as yourself, or a large tube dealer. For a hobbyist, not so much.

Yes, I`m well aware, Sir. that both of my testers were pricier than the OP`S desired tube tester budget permits.
My point in posting was to correct the poster about most tube testers probably not testing tubes at realistic HV levels, hence my attempts to enlighten him of the two readily purchased examples that I own, pricy, but available..
 
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