need complete list of caps on AU-999

mikeinit

mikeinit

Something Profound
I just acquired a marvelous AU-999, and have found bits and pieces of info in some threads here.
I find myself so busy these days that I am wondering if there is an already assembled complete list of caps and "flying saucers" so that I can order them ASAP.
This Sansui had a schematic in an envelope on the bottom (nice!), but still for the sake of time I would like a little help on these "flying saucers".
By the way, the amp still has plastic protective film on the edges. I at first thought this was a counterfeit, or reproduction something because of that. Imagine no one removing that since 1971?
Kind of hard to see, but the upper left edge you can just barely see the blue film. I will add one more photo.
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I am excited to have joined this site, as it will help a novice like me tremendously. :banana:
 

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Welcome to AK....
The list you seek would have limited value. Sansui did a lot of changes as production of the units progressed. The best thing to do is look at whats there and buy those values, you will have to go up a bit in voltage for caps and the size of the modern components will be smaller.
Do a search of the site for the flying saucer trannies, then buy a bunch, they will be cheap, about a nickle each. Watch them closely for pin out differences.
Have fun!
 
It will take about 10mins to make a cap list for this amp, its very basic.

Read this thread http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=431722
Make sure yours doesnt have the "subsonic filter block", if so, remove it....
The thread is long but there is a lot of good information in there....

Read this thread for the pre-amp headroom mod.....I highly recommend it, this takes the amplifier performance to a new level...
As this amp stands in standard form, it actually only barely makes its rated power before the pre-amp is out of headroom and clipping.....
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/archive/index.php/t-466545.html

Transistors
XA495 > ZTX795A (PNP)
(CDC)8002-1 =KSC2609A (NPN)
(CDC)9002-1 =KSA1220A (PNP)

In the preamp all the transistors can be ZTX795A except TR603 and 604 which can be replaced with BC337.

Dont worry about the TO-66 drivers, they never give any trouble.....

Output transistors if you want to replace can e replaced with Onsemi MJ15024, or MJ15003

I think thats enough to get you started in any case.......

Let us know how you get on....
 
Jumping up and down.

That sound is me jumping up and down with excitement.
I'm sure recapping this unit would have made me very happy, but with the subsonic filter bloc mod, and the 1209 board mods I am sure to have tears in my eyes.
Thanks nosirrah, and for the awesome information kevsep!

Just to double check it looks like the "crowbar" F-1313 is removed, by just snipping the blue, grey, and black wires?
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=2571&pictureid=17257

Thanks again,
Mike
 
mikeinit said:
That sound is me jumping up and down with excitement.
I'm sure recapping this unit would have made me very happy, but with the subsonic filter bloc mod, and the 1209 board mods I am sure to have tears in my eyes.
Thanks nosirrah, and for the awesome information kevsep!

Just to double check it looks like the "crowbar" F-1313 is removed, by just snipping the blue, grey, and black wires?
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=2571&pictureid=17257

Thanks again,
Mike
Click to expand...

Hey Mike,
To remove the crowbar just snip the three wires off if it. BUT, when you do, snip them back by the fuse sockets instead of the board. This way you don't have wires going to nothing, waiting to short out on something.
 
tobyj17 said:
Hey Mike,
To remove the crowbar just snip the three wires off if it. BUT, when you do, snip them back by the fuse sockets instead of the board. This way you don't have wires going to nothing, waiting to short out on something.
Click to expand...

Okay, that makes sense. I can just leave it in place I suppose (someone, someday may wish for it).
Thanks again.
 
If you do leave the crowbar circuit in, it is critical you have the correct fast acting fuses in the amplifier (the ones on the back of the amp) because that circuit relies on the fuses blowing to protect the speakers and amp in the case of excessive DC......

Oh, and the blue tape on the surround you were asking about, mine still had the protective blue tape like yours did, and it was on my AU9500 too.....
It doesnt mean anything except the original owner didnt take it off.
 
kevzep said:
If you do leave the crowbar circuit in, it is critical you have the correct fast acting fuses in the amplifier (the ones on the back of the amp) because that circuit relies on the fuses blowing to protect the speakers and amp in the case of excessive DC......
Click to expand...

I will disconnect, but I meant I would leave it disconnected in the chassis. I will check the fuses out for sure.

I'm curious as to what would cause the case of excessive DC?
 
mikeinit said:
I will disconnect, but I meant I would leave it disconnected in the chassis. I will check the fuses out for sure.

I'm curious as to what would cause the case of excessive DC?
Click to expand...

Components failing can and will cause excessive DC voltage at the speaker terminals. This could wreck your speakers.

The reason for removing the crowbar is because if it senses that something is wrong, it will act as a dead short between your speaker terminals, and blow the fuse. What they didn't think of, is if the fuse doesn't blow right away. Then it could take out other components, burn board traces,etc.

If you want to leave it in and just keep it disconnected that's fine. I don't see any harm in that.
 
Toby is right, the usual reason for excessive DC is a component failure, all this can happen very quickly, as soon as the SCR sees a pre-determined amount of DC, usually anything over a couple of volts, it will turn the SCR on which clamps the output to ground and blows the quick acting fuses to protect your speakers.

I guess you could say its a weird way of doing it, but thinking about it, I guess Sansui decided any dangerous amount of DC meant the amplifier had already had some king of failure, and shorting the outputs to blow the fuse wasnt going to cause any more damage than had already occurred.

This amp was in the early days of Solid State technology and at that point, that's where they were at in terms of of protection technology, protection circuits quickly more sophisticated than this one, including things like over-current protection, they also were using relays for turning the speaker outputs on and off etc etc......
 
mikeinit said:
I just acquired a marvelous AU-999, and have found bits and pieces of info in some threads here.
I find myself so busy these days that I am wondering if there is an already assembled complete list of caps and "flying saucers" so that I can order them ASAP.
This Sansui had a schematic in an envelope on the bottom (nice!), but still for the sake of time I would like a little help on these "flying saucers".
By the way, the amp still has plastic protective film on the edges. I at first thought this was a counterfeit, or reproduction something because of that. Imagine no one removing that since 1971?
Kind of hard to see, but the upper left edge you can just barely see the blue film. I will add one more photo.

I am excited to have joined this site, as it will help a novice like me tremendously. :banana:
Click to expand...

Hello Mike,

Here is a link to a rundown on my restoration project, in addition to what the other folks linked to:

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=464691

These guys on here sure helped me out a lot.

Nice looking amp you have there.

Have fun.

George.
 
I feel like the Scarecrow in the Wizard of Oz

♪ If I Only Had a Brain ♫

I am receiving so much awesome help, that I feel kind of foolish when I run up against a wall.
My problem now is finding KSC2609A transistors. Mouser and Digi-key say no results, or invalid.
Google shows that this item/part no. do exist though. But something seems wrong if Mouser and Digi-Key don't carry it.
Michael Percy is moving in 4 days, so I better look somewhere else for those big caps.

My experience has really only been with tubes, caps, resistors, and hot chassis', so I ask for your patience in my education.

I know this all will be worth it for me in the end.
I was thinking I would get these parts ordered this AM, but I need to run off to work. I will check this out when I get home (late).
Thanks a ton!
Mike
 
mikeinit said:
♪ If I Only Had a Brain ♫

I am receiving so much awesome help, that I feel kind of foolish when I run up against a wall.
My problem now is finding KSC2609A transistors. Mouser and Digi-key say no results, or invalid.
Google shows that this item/part no. do exist though. But something seems wrong if Mouser and Digi-Key don't carry it.
Michael Percy is moving in 4 days, so I better look somewhere else for those big caps.

My experience has really only been with tubes, caps, resistors, and hot chassis', so I ask for your patience in my education.

I know this all will be worth it for me in the end.
I was thinking I would get these parts ordered this AM, but I need to run off to work. I will check this out when I get home (late).
Thanks a ton!
Mike
Click to expand...
KSC2609 here.........
http://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...GAEpiMZZMtg4rgytLf28LXdX%2bfcbrOYc/2dQBa8HHg=
 
VintagePlus said:
Good luck with the recap, the AU 999 is one sweet amp.
Click to expand...
Thanks VintagePlus.
I am really excited I stumbled upon this amp.
I picked this up at an estate sale along with the TU-666, and some SP-X8000 Speakers. I may sell the speakers to a buddy that needs them (he is using bookshelf speakers with a Carver setup:saywhat:, and I have some Akai SW-175's that I recently acquired and have put 5 coats of Shellac on. They sound great with a Pioneer QX-8000.

This Sansui AU-999 will go a long way toward righting the experience I encountered six months ago.......
The situation that brought me into wild search for gear was a friend who had a garage sale, and didn't tell me about it.....
Guess what he sold..... A Marantz 2330:tears::screwy: how much you ask? He sold it for $10.00. Yes that is a ten. :jawdrop:
The one who bought it turned around and put it on Craigslist the next day for $100.00, and had someone shove $350.00 in his face before taking it.

Okay I had to get that off my chest. I'm sure everyone else here would have been equally apoplectic.
 
kevzep said:
In the preamp all the transistors can be ZTX795A except TR603 and 604 which can be replaced with BC337.


Let us know how you get on....
Click to expand...

As I stated I was/am time challenged, so I made errors when ordering. I actually over ordered some items that were inexpensive.

So I find that I ordered both: BC33725TA & BC33725BU. They look identical as far as values are concerned (different price).
I see that there are other BC337's that are 50v vs. 45v for what I have.
So please inform me if I can use what I have? Should I put the TR603 & TR604 back in, as they don't look like the flying saucers (they are squarish).
Thanks for your time.
mike
 
dreaded bright bulb

So I am getting a bright bulb at this point.
Whats been done
  1. Replaced all caps
  2. Replaced all flying saucers
  3. Replaced output transistors
  4. Removed Subsonic filters
  5. Removed crowbar
When I started this I found that the sound was garbled, and the rail fuse F005 was blown.
When the following items are pulled individually the bulb is dim:
  1. Any of the four rail fuses
  2. Left F-1159
  3. TR-815 (left 2SC)
  4. TR-819 (rear output)
  5. TR-821 (front output)
  6. TR-817 (front left 2SA) this will dim the bulb, but not as much as other components
Here are some numbers F-1159s out, fuses in:
  1. T22 -42v
  2. T18 29v
  3. Collector of Front right output 29v
  4. Collector front left output 8v (drops fast while testing)
  5. Collector rear right output 41v
  6. Left rear collector 42v
  7. Collector RR driver 42
  8. Collector LR driver 42
  9. Collector FR driver -42v
  10. Collector FL -42v
  11. T21 -42
  12. T27 20v (drops like a rock)
  13. T15 15v and drops
  14. T19 -42v
  15. T25 42v
I have read through quite a few threads including the long one kevzep helped tobyj17. I have checked outputs and drivers with diode function and found all good.
I forgot to mention I replaced the bridge.
I saw kevzep mention several times how simple the amp is, and after going around it numerous times I am starting to agree. I am just lacking some of the common sense needed to sort this out.
I can't pull an all nighter like some of you do, but I will check this thread a few more times tonight and right away in the morning.
I have checked all mica wafers, screw alignment. I have even examined each board slot for any stray metal that might have gotten in there.
I appreciate any help I can get.
mike
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/picture.php?albumid=2571&pictureid=17569
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http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/picture.php?
albumid=2571&pictureid=17566
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Those squarish transistors you mentioned, did you replace them as well?

I wouldn't unplug anything with it powered up , you could potentially cause a voltage spike. When I got the bright bulb it ended up being a couple switched around transistors, and the metal barrel looking transistor (bias) with the really long legs bad. If you need these, they're rare as hens teeth, but I know someone that has a couple :)

Make a list of what transistor you have in each spot. Ex: TR605 has transistor number xx

It might be as simple as the wrong one, or the legs not in the right spots. Look at the data sheets and make sure the ECB legs are in the right holes.

I'm sure others will chime in as well. I'm far from an expert..but I know they'll ask these questions.
 
tobyj17 said:
Those squarish transistors you mentioned, did you replace them as well?
Click to expand...

Yes I replaced all of them except the bias. They tested okay.....

I will compile the list sometime tomorrow, maybe in the morning.

I have not unplugged any component while fired up. I do not touch anything while plugged in except with a DMM probe. Habit from working on hot chassis radios.
Thanks
mike
 
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