Oracle Delphi Transcription Turntable w/Linn Tonearm/Audioquest Cart help wanted.

kaplang

Works for me !
A local sale of an Oracle Delphi Transcription Turntable w/Linn Basic Plus Tonearm and Audioquest T-5H Cartridge with marble base for $1250.00

I am considering it.
What do you think about this TT combination or any of the components?

Thanks,

George

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I have what appears to be the same model. Bought it 2nd hand around '91 and have had it since. The arm and cartridge are different and I'm not familiar with either of yours so I can't comment on them.

These are thought to occasionally have motor problems, but in my case an intermittent speed drift turned out to be cold solder joints on the motor control board inside the motor case, which I was able repair without disassembling the motor. Mine also had a problem with the on-off switch as it would sometimes fail to lock into position. Fix is usually to swap it with the 33-45 switch which is identical as you can see, but I was able to repair the original switch...turned out to be a crack in the case that needed reinforcement to keep the crack from opening.

Apart from that, the deck at this age will need new star spring dampers as the old ones likely have disintegrated by now. I made new ones from felt because the rest of the assemblies (spring supports) were fine. In your case, make sure the springs have been refurbished, or factor in the cost of a new maintenance kit when you negotiate the price.

It's a fine deck...I'm very happy with mine. Maintenance issues happen with old decks. The Oracles seem to have more than their fair share but I wouldn't dismiss the deck outright on account of the failure of a few replaceable parts. The real gem of it is the suspension and isolation of the record itself, and in these regards it is almost without peer.

The mat looks different....what kind is it?
 
Cool looking rig!

Precious little info on the 'net about that AQ cartridge other than the fact that it's an HOMC. AQ LOMCs were made by the same folks that make Lrya cartridges and are well-respected. Could be very interesting.
 
I had an Apature HOMC that looked rather like that one. Okay, but not a world beater, and I'm wracking my brain to remember the more widely known version of it by another company that was identical other than the color -- Adcom maybe? And was it a P mount?
Given its age and possible suspension hardening, and unknown amount of stylus wear, make your decision on the turntable and arm, ignoring the cartridge entirely. If it is good, than you have a bonus. If you have to replace it, no problem.
 
That looks like a Mark 1 or Mk 2 Delphi. You can get a maintenance kit from Oracle fairly cheap to replace all the suspension parts, it also includes oil and a new belt, well worth it for older tables. The table itself is probably far better than the Linn Arm and AT cartridge, but those will serve well until you decide it's upgrade time.

Biggest issue is the motor, which can run for a million years or decide to die tomorrow. There is an upgrade from Oracle, but it's basically a new sub-chassis and motor for quite a bit of money. Alternately there's also the origin live motors that are supposed to work quite well with Oracle tables if it does ever die.

Overall, Delphi's are excellent tables. I own a Mk3 with an SME 309 arm and sumiko celebration cartridge and it sings.
 
I would pass.

The Linn Basik arm was never considered a good arm, even when it was new. These days it sells for $200 to $300 on the used market, and demand for them is lukewarm at best. I am sure there is someone who likes it, but that would be the exception rather than the rule.

The Audioquest T5 never distinguished itself, and there is very little info out there on it. If it is indeed the equivalent of the Adcom or SAE cartridge that was built by Coral, well a stash of them that were new old stock sold for about $200 a few years ago. A used one with indeterminate hours can't be worth much more than $150.

The table will need some refreshing. as 240sx4u mentions, the maintenance kit is $175. Then if the motor fails down the road, a Origin Live transplant is $500, plus your time to install it. Add this to the $800 or so you are paying for the table in the package, well it gets to be a lot of money for an Oracle of that vintage.

I think there are better ways to spend $1200 plus the additional costs of refurbishment.

Regards
Mister Pig
 
It is the same gentleman in West LA he has had for sale on CL some high end TT every 3 or so months. I had recently bought a Denon DL 62L and he also had one for sale last August. I might of bought it but summer heat, LA traffic, etc.

I would take Mr Pigs advise. The whole set up looks like an advanced audio overhaul project. I remember when the Linn Basic (with the Axis TT) came out and I was not impressed at all. The Audioquest T5-H was decent enough for a HOMC but that is it's problem it's high output, high even for a HOMC.
 
It is a nice turntable. But it is not a transcription turntable. Which is a specialized idler or direct drive turntable with a big, heavy motor and a 12" tonearm made for broadcasting work. That said, the Oracle Delphi is a superb audiophile turntable in it's era. And excellent performance wise. But the caveats noted earlier in the discussion do apply. And if those issues come into play, could mean a pricey bevy of upgrades to address these issues.
 
It is a nice turntable. But it is not a transcription turntable. Which is a specialized idler or direct drive turntable with a big, heavy motor and a 12" tonearm made for broadcasting work. That said, the Oracle Delphi is a superb audiophile turntable in it's era. And excellent performance wise. But the caveats noted earlier in the discussion do apply. And if those issues come into play, could mean a pricey bevy of upgrades to address these issues.

I'm not convinced that "transcription" is even a turntable thing beyond a marketing term.

There is no fit and rule for "transcription" turntables just what people assume merits the name. The SR-717 is a transcription table just as much as a Rek o Cut or an Oracle Delphi. Vinyl already has a long set of hard rules and in my opinion we don't need to burden ourselves with made up rules
 
I would pass.

The Linn Basik arm was never considered a good arm, even when it was new.

It turns out the tone arm is a Linn Basik Plus. Where they any better?


Some good information so far. Many things to consider. Thank you to those of you that have given some input.
George
 
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It turns out the tone arm is a Linn Basik Plus. Where they any better?


Some good information so far. Thank you to those of you that have posted
George

Not really. It is a spec arm made for them by Jelco. It's not a bad arm, its not junk. On the other hand its not exceptional either. I for myself personally do not see $1200 plus worth of value, which is what you have invested once its been refreshed. Will it play without the maintenance kit and what not? Could very well happen, but there is no guarantee. I personally would wonder if it was in spec.....

Now the argument could be made that the table is worth every penny once refreshed given what a new Oracle sells for. And the arm and cartridge could be sold if they do not meet expectations. So that is a possibility. Some of it depends on how willing you are able you are to roll up your sleeves and do this yourself. Also, it depends on what your audio kitty holds, and how much you have in reserves to see this project through.

Personally? I don't see the value in that asking price. But that is just me, and I could see a case for someone thinking that it is worth it.

Regards
Mister Pig
 
I bought a DP-62L from this same seller. I was very happy with my purchase. No idea about the table you are interested in other than to say more than likely, based merely on the impression I got from him, that Oracle will have been very well taken care of.
 
Not really. It is a spec arm made for them by Jelco. It's not a bad arm, its not junk. On the other hand its not exceptional either.
Regards
Mister Pig

Don't mean to be a buttinski...the Linn arm was made by Acos Denki, or otherwise known as ADC in Japan, not to be confused with the ADC of America.
Is it a spectacular arm? No. In top working condition, at its price-point, is there a better arm? IMO... No. It has a 10gr range EM, which it prefers carts in the medium high to high compliance. 20-30cu range. Biggest issue with the arm, is its age. The horizontal bearing system didn't age well. That can be cured. If the horizontal bearings are functioning properly, they, and the vertical bearings are greatly helped with a heavy vis oil (50w). Very easy arm to set up......if......it was mounted at 211mm. The little hole at the front of the headshell is 229mm from pivot. Setting the cart square in the slots, and diamond directly below that hole puts one into Baerwald nulls.
 
Don't mean to be a buttinski...the Linn arm was made by Acos Denki, or otherwise known as ADC in Japan, not to be confused with the ADC of America.
Is it a spectacular arm? No. In top working condition, at its price-point, is there a better arm? IMO... No. It has a 10gr range EM, which it prefers carts in the medium high to high compliance. 20-30cu range. Biggest issue with the arm, is its age. The horizontal bearing system didn't age well. That can be cured. If the horizontal bearings are functioning properly, they, and the vertical bearings are greatly helped with a heavy vis oil (50w). Very easy arm to set up......if......it was mounted at 211mm. The little hole at the front of the headshell is 229mm from pivot. Setting the cart square in the slots, and diamond directly below that hole puts one into Baerwald nulls.

Not at all. Best to get the correct info out there on who builds it. And if I don't have my info right I want to get it right for the future. i know you have owned it, or own it, so glad you joined the conversation.

Its just my opinion. But I still wouldn't spend money on a Basik Plus.

Regards
Mister Pig
 
Don't mean to be a buttinski...the Linn arm was made by Acos Denki, or otherwise known as ADC in Japan, not to be confused with the ADC of America.
Is it a spectacular arm? No. In top working condition, at its price-point, is there a better arm? IMO... No. It has a 10gr range EM, which it prefers carts in the medium high to high compliance. 20-30cu range. Biggest issue with the arm, is its age. The horizontal bearing system didn't age well. That can be cured. If the horizontal bearings are functioning properly, they, and the vertical .

Good Info. Thanks!


How do I tell if the bearings are functioning properly? I am suppose to go look at it tonight.
 
Good Info. Thanks!


How do I tell if the bearings are functioning properly? I am suppose to go look at it tonight.


stylus guard on......zero float the arm.....antiskate off. take a piece of paper towel or napkin about 1/2" wide, 1" long, hold at one end and push the arm with the other end across its swing. if it stops wanting to freely swing there is a bit of bearing problem. if it stops abruptly and wants to swing up or down there is a bunch of of bearing problem.

if you have a shure stylus force gauge, you can check vertical bearing function with that. with the arm at tracking weight balanced on the scale blow on the headshell area with enough to make a candle slightly flicker. The arm and scale should go into a nice smooth teeter totter. After it comes to rest, 1/2" X 1/2" of paper towel dropped onto the headshell should show you've changed "tracking force"

with the table level, and antiskate off, and arm zero floated, it should want to stay where ever you place it....in the horizontal. if it wants to try to drift on its own right or left, the antiskate mech may be out of spec.....no big deal, or there maybe too much natural twist in the arm wires where they exit the arm tube to enter the vertical pillar. again, no big deal......unless there is a fast swing that occurs.

hope this helps
 
stylus guard on......zero float the arm.....antiskate off. take a piece of paper towel or napkin about 1/2" wide, 1" long, hold at one end and push the arm with the other end across its swing. if it stops wanting to freely swing there is a bit of bearing problem. if it stops abruptly and wants to swing up or down there is a bunch of of bearing problem.

if you have a shure stylus force gauge, you can check vertical bearing function with that. with the arm at tracking weight balanced on the scale blow on the headshell area with enough to make a candle slightly flicker. The arm and scale should go into a nice smooth teeter totter. After it comes to rest, 1/2" X 1/2" of paper towel dropped onto the headshell should show you've changed "tracking force"

with the table level, and antiskate off, and arm zero floated, it should want to stay where ever you place it....in the horizontal. if it wants to try to drift on its own right or left, the antiskate mech may be out of spec.....no big deal, or there maybe too much natural twist in the arm wires where they exit the arm tube to enter the vertical pillar. again, no big deal......unless there is a fast swing that occurs.

hope this helps

Big Help!
 
stylus guard on......zero float the arm.....antiskate off. take a piece of paper towel or napkin about 1/2" wide, 1" long, hold at one end and push the arm with the other end across its swing. if it stops wanting to freely swing there is a bit of bearing problem. if it stops abruptly and wants to swing up or down there is a bunch of of bearing problem.

if you have a shure stylus force gauge, you can check vertical bearing function with that. with the arm at tracking weight balanced on the scale blow on the headshell area with enough to make a candle slightly flicker. The arm and scale should go into a nice smooth teeter totter. After it comes to rest, 1/2" X 1/2" of paper towel dropped onto the headshell should show you've changed "tracking force"

with the table level, and antiskate off, and arm zero floated, it should want to stay where ever you place it....in the horizontal. if it wants to try to drift on its own right or left, the antiskate mech may be out of spec.....no big deal, or there maybe too much natural twist in the arm wires where they exit the arm tube to enter the vertical pillar. again, no big deal......unless there is a fast swing that occurs.

hope this helps
That's more or less how I do it, but I apply minimal (less than 0.1g) vtf and drag the arm across the platter with the needle on the paper. If it doesn't follow there's a problem.

I figure it's better to check the lateral bearing at the vinyl surface than anywhere else, just as that's the best place to check vtf.

Vertical bearing is trickier to check...if it moves freely that's good enough for me.:yes:
 
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