Picked up a non working Dynaco ST-70

It looks like I was correct, compared to a stock board I have hiding around, there are some resistors left out of this board, and most components look upgraded. This could be the main reason this amp sounds overly bright in the highs, more investigation is needed I guess. Ugh, hate running into these Hodge podge mods. :confused: Maybe someone can understand why they left certain resistors out.

20230207_093144.jpg
 
I think the lower two resistors are the 18k reistors that form part of the plate to ground HF filter network on the pentode. The larger pieces directly above it should be the 82pf caps that are the other half of that network.

guessing this is someone's misguided attempt at improving HF response. Yes it will extend it, but probably to the point of creating instability. I'd put those parts back in.

PC_3_parts_list.jpg
 
I think the lower two resistors are the 18k reistors that form part of the plate to ground HF filter network on the pentode. The larger pieces directly above it should be the 82pf caps that are the other half of that network.

guessing this is someone's misguided attempt at improving HF response. Yes it will extend it, but probably to the point of creating instability. I'd put those parts back in.

PC_3_parts_list.jpg
Makes sense, I'm going to remove this board and install the stock unmolested one I had laying around, after installing new capacitors in it.
 
Makes sense, I'm going to remove this board and install the stock unmolested one I had laying around, after installing new capacitors in it.
"unmolested" is the right word !

You _could_ use the existing board with the existing caps also. At least to start with.
 
Just curious here,,, Are the boards laid out the same ,, ie, same traces, holes etc? If they are the same, how does the board in the amp work with parts missing? I ran into something like that working on the RMI amp PS....There was a cap count change from older chassis, and the board in the amp had the holes and traces but worked with seemingly missing caps similar to this...
Thanks
 
"unmolested" is the right word !

You _could_ use the existing board with the existing caps also. At least to start with.
yeah, decided it was better for me to start with the unmolested board, not 100 percent sure all the other values are correct with the existing components. Obviously someone thought they were improving the amp, but to my ears on my test speakers, the highs were too bright and not natural sounding.
 
Just curious here,,, Are the boards laid out the same ,, ie, same traces, holes etc? If they are the same, how does the board in the amp work with parts missing? I ran into something like that working on the RMI amp PS....There was a cap count change from older chassis, and the board in the amp had the holes and traces but worked with seemingly missing caps similar to this...
Thanks
They are the exact same boards, but obviously someone thought they were improving things by changing components. Yanking that board out and starting with an unmolested one I have, replaced the main capacitors though.

20230207_110657.jpg
 
If they are the same, how does the board in the amp work with parts missing?


the parts that are missing won't prevent it from passing signal.

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it would be the 82mmf and 18k resistor that run from the 7199 triode grid to ground. With that in place some of the highs will go to ground so the bandwidth of the amp isn't so large that it can turn itself into an oscillator.


but to my ears on my test speakers, the highs were too bright and not natural sounding.

fair bet if you ran square waves through it, there would be a lot of overshoot and ringing.
 
At leased it doesn't look like the amplifier got "moddified" too badly.
I bought a "Box-0-Integrated Amplifier" cheap several years ago that was in peices.
Someone had decided to restore it and got way lost in the process. Pulled boards, cut wiring, components missing, wrong parts installed, etc.
It turned out well in the end though and my son has been using it for all this time without issue. It can be frustrating though trying to figure out what the previous person did, or was trying to accomplish.
 
It can be frustrating though trying to figure out what the previous person did, or was trying to accomplish.

I have a mark iii on the bench. it has a million TAA updates (i think TAA had a mark iii update in about every edition for a while). It was easier to remove everything and start over then looking at the updates, understand what they do, and make sure the updates are correct.
 
So I also found the wires that used to go from pin 4 of two of the outputs to board traces 11 and 14 missing, they had jumpers across to 12 and 13. Going to wire it back to stock with this other board, too much crazy changes, and orange drops are not my favorites.

20230207_115116.jpg
 
the parts that are missing won't prevent it from passing signal.

maxresdefault.jpg


it would be the 82mmf and 18k resistor that run from the 7199 triode grid to ground. With that in place some of the highs will go to ground so the bandwidth of the amp isn't so large that it can turn itself into an oscillator.




fair bet if you ran square waves through it, there would be a lot of overshoot and ringing.
It almost seems they had this running in triode or something, no wires going from pin4 to the board like stock shows.
 
I have a mark iii on the bench. it has a million TAA updates (i think TAA had a mark iii update in about every edition for a while). It was easier to remove everything and start over then looking at the updates, understand what they do, and make sure the updates are correct.
I did pretty much did that with that integrated. So many of the resistors and transistors were replaced with the wrong values I wound up just going over the schematic and starting over. I wound up replacing most everything on the amp board itself. The line stage wasn't too bad, mostly just missing bits.
 
It looks like I was correct, compared to a stock board I have hiding around, there are some resistors left out of this board, and most components look upgraded. This could be the main reason this amp sounds overly bright in the highs, more investigation is needed I guess. Ugh, hate running into these Hodge podge mods. :confused: Maybe someone can understand why they left certain resistors out.

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mods are the absolute WORST!!!!, I've spent hours stripping out hacked wiring and added components from many otherwise perfect tube amps, example: I bought a Heathkit EA3 amp at a hamfest for $40.00 it looked great but when I opened it there was no wiring on the tone controls, the selector switch had a network of resistors attached and wired to points that made no sense and the volume pot was incinerated. under the chassis was just as bad. I completely stripped it to just sockets, controls, terminal strips and transformers, bought the assembly manual and built it as a new kit with all new components, I had to make up a new volume pot out of parts. thankfully the transformers were not damaged, the amp sounds great and I'm still using it.
 
It almost seems they had this running in triode or something, no wires going from pin4 to the board like stock shows.
Also part of the stability stuff in the feedback loop. Not related to triode mode, that would be at the el34 sockets
 
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