• Please note that there are a few updates and clarifications made in the Audiokarma Rules, mostly relating to advertising and the addition of the new "Paying it Forward" & "Giving back" forums in the AudioKarma Audio Marketplace section.

Pioneer CT-F4242 - Repair and work in progress thread

jobrewer1983

AK Subscriber
Banned
Subscriber
A week ago I landed a free to me Pioneer CT-F4242 that “didn’t work” or so I was told, and was going to be tossed In the trash. My buddy picked it up at a yard sale with a SX-550 and PL-510A. He wanted the receiver, sold me the turntable and was going to toss the cassette deck. All from the original owner. The table is as mint as could be so I assumed the tape deck just needed belts....
B1279525-756F-4A55-A2F8-344D550AEC86.jpeg

My buddy dropped it off a few days ago, and I was happy to see it was in great cond. inside was nice and clean.

99B9A426-92B3-450F-AA25-AB8E83D9FF12.jpeg

Powered it up and noting from the right side, and a loud hiss from the left.

A346900C-4148-4551-9EE2-1051FD88537E.jpeg

Checked the belts, all 4 of them..... and the take up wheels. They all seem to be in good shape for being 40+ years old. I had the flat belt on hand, but not the square belts. They have been ordered and shipped. When I pull the mechanism out of the unit I’ll document it all in this thread. I haven’t seen a thread on the 4242 break down. I will try to explain my process as best I can.

AFA566AC-F3B9-4D36-81EF-D9D9D995AA10.jpeg

Hit the play/record switch with some D5 and some G5. Bingo, we have a working deck. :)

D4DB7440-85E9-44C4-80ED-CDD80FFA21BA.jpeg

Had to pic open the pot to get to the inside. The double pots sometime have sealed ends. The cap on it covered the little hole so it had to be removed.

29BCB874-4E33-42B4-976B-FC8D126D2D60.jpeg

Cleaned the pot and few switches on the unit. That’s what oozed out of that pot.

D22CFED3-36FD-4B14-AD18-0D65EDBEC464.jpeg

Went to record and noting was being recorded on the right channel. The catch that moves the switch is broken, I will either JB weld it or use some superglue when I pull the mechanism out. Don’t want to pull it apart yet, want to do it all in one servicing.

D81EE0EE-3F12-46AA-9EE4-2CC5C0D6EB24.jpeg D62AB3D2-A58E-4342-9C0E-EC6211D1E415.jpeg

Rather happy with the SQ, and am shocked the belts are still working. I almost don’t want to change them but new ones will be better in the long run.

So my questions, if anyone even knows.

This deck uses belts and a hand full of take up wheels, or older wheels. I’ve swapped them on other decks, but I’m not finding replacements for this 4242. That said they look to be in good cond. I can just tell they are a little hard, no cracks or anything like that but if I RW or FF and I touch them I can feel them slip.

I just ordered a bottle of Rubber Renue the 408A formula. I’ve never used it, but watched a guy on YT who I see use it a lot. Any of you ever use it? I am thinking I want to use it on the pinch roller too, I usually replace the roller but this one looks brand new just a little stiff.

Anyone ever rebuild a 4242, and have any tips for me before I start? The belts and rubber renue should be in soon, so more to come. Just trying to get a jump on this one.
 
Last edited:
Register to hide this ad
F94C7CA2-9B31-4B2D-8035-6FD77E475CB2.jpeg

32E81BD2-941C-4ED3-BE5D-690D356F822B.jpeg

415958EA-534A-4F79-95BF-942AFAAA66E6.jpeg

Well the superglue didn’t hold that great, JB weld on the other hand did the trick :) was able to make a proper recording on the deck today, SQ was great. You can hang an engine block off that thing now lol.


349CDB7A-545D-4725-A6D9-E6252C57464F.jpeg

80A63ACD-3BE3-419E-A41E-084B531D4134.jpeg

53FF3771-B3D8-4B03-966F-FB26B0558C66.jpeg

Got the 408A Rubber Renue in as well, hit the idler wheels yesterday. Substantial improvement in grip, the FF and RW are a lot faster, I also tried it on the pinch roller, made it look and feel like new. Was pretty happy with the pinch roller, it feels soft and “grippy” now.

I am going to measure the stock idler wheels and order new one as I want them to be new, I will soak the originals in the rubber renue once I pull them off, that will at least keep them soft and working until I can get new ones in.

Can’t wait for the new belts to arrive.
 
9E0BBE28-2D03-42BC-A200-06B63E3B418E.jpeg DC3A1E91-4D1B-4261-8288-8A1531AA01EA.jpeg

All new belts, cleaned the belt traces with some 91% alcohol.

EA1242CC-4FAD-4403-B934-43A1DF5368D3.jpeg

I pulled the capstan out slightly to work a drop of oil in. Made the capstan and flywheel spin nicely and I was sure to clean up any excess with a dry Q-Tip. Cleaned the heads too. Cleaned the pinch roller with some 408A rubber renue.

B24BB668-6593-42EA-8E7C-7284920E5CA0.jpeg

The RE wheel had hardened and was spinning around the pulley, I soaked it in Rubber Renue 408A for 15min. Scuffed it with some scotch bright to make sure it was tacky. Stuff works like a dream. Made the rubber feel like new. Soft and tacky like new.

DAD1FAE6-7597-4A16-B717-76F8FA8C1E34.jpeg 07633192-167A-4FD3-B3B0-0F884694B91F.jpeg 1400B0AC-ED04-4C3C-957F-D413341FB4EB.jpeg 01C2EBEB-FAC4-40C3-845E-B21E6961BF68.jpeg

Need to give it a good face cleaning but letting it play now just to make sure it’s functioning @100%. Really happy I saved this from the trash, wasn’t a lot of work and the outcome is a great sounding unit. The new belts cleaned up the slow start up, I lubed everting that required a drop of lube and greased the metal slides for the heads so it’s not grinding metal to metal. It had grease in it but I cleaned it and added some fresh stuff. This thing is spot on. Plays like new.
 
Love that album

02138887-4520-404A-8948-231D0AE452C4.jpeg D0BEC267-E6A8-4957-85E5-882876514D81.jpeg 450D43E6-6C56-491D-A675-2F304E73420E.jpeg

Have had it going non stop to see it develops any issues. So far it’s been flawless.

I really get a kick out of fixing the old 70s and 80s decks. I’ll hang on to this one for a while than move it along when I get the next deck in to get going. Someone will want this bad boy as it’s playing like new. I want to find a 7272 next.
 
Mother Assembly (RWX-164)
  1. C103 – 10uF 16V
  2. C104 – 10uF 16V
  3. C105 – 4.7uF 35V
  4. C106 - 4.7uF 35V
  5. C107 – 10uF 16V
  6. C108 – 10uF 16V
  7. C113 – 10uF 25V
  8. C114 – 10uF 25V
  9. C201 – 4.7uF 35V
  10. C203 – 10uF 25V
  11. C207 – 47uF 10V - Upgraded to 25V
Head Amplifier Assembly (RWF-071)
  1. C301 – 4.7uF 25V
  2. C302 – 4.7uF 25V
  3. C303 – 10uF 25V
  4. C304 – 10uF 25V
  5. C307 – 47uF 10V – Upgraded to 25V
  6. C308 – 47uF 10V – Upgraded to 25V
  7. C311 – 47uF 10V – Upgraded to 25V
  8. C312 – 47uF 10V – Upgraded to 25V
  9. C313 – 10uF 25V
  10. C314 – 10uF 25V
  11. C317 – 100uF 25V
  12. C318 – 100uF 25V
Dolby Processer Assembly (RWX-157)
  1. C401 – 0.47uF 10V – Upgraded to 25V
  2. C402 – 100uF 25V
  3. C403 – 220uF 16V – Upgraded to 25V
  4. C405 – 10uF 16V
  5. C408 – 10uF 16V
  6. C410 – 10uF 16V
  7. C412 – 0.33uF 10V - – Upgraded to 25V
  8. C413 – 1uF 50V
  9. C415 – 10uF 25V
Rec Amplifier Assembly (RWF-072)
  1. C501 – 10uF 16V
  2. C502 – 1uF 50V
  3. C503 – 0.33uF 10V – Upgraded to 25V
  4. C504 – 1uF 50V
  5. C508 – 1uF 50V
Muting Assembly (RWX-158)
  1. C601 – 10uF 25V
  2. C602 – 0.47uF 50V
  3. C603 – 33uF 25V
  4. C604 – 33uF 25V
  5. C605 – 220uF 25V
Power Supply Assembly (RWR-052)
  1. C701 – 470uF 50V
  2. C702 – 100uF 50V
  3. C703 – 100uF 35V
  4. C704 – 100uF 25V
  5. C706 – 1000uF 16V
  6. C707 – 33uF 16V
  7. C708 – 33uF 16V
673CBD08-B814-4F48-B4B7-19E146854B93.jpeg 85B8810C-9A2E-40A4-8EBC-3F673CEAC619.jpeg

A way to cross reference part number per board.
 
Thanks Joe
I have several extremely nice Akai,s that need attention also.
This 4242 is damn good looking but realistically if it requires a lot of work, it will meet a sad ending.
Let me know should you want another.
Rex
 
My daily user now.
One of the best 2 head decks there was.
And somewhat scarceView attachment 2223202View attachment 2223203View attachment 2223204

Nice! I have a few nice 2 head decks too, was just give an Kyocera D-801 by a fellow AKer. Thing sounds fantastic, have a nice Tascam too that’s a 2 head.

I like the 4242 it’s a simple deck yet sound stage is really nice. Really low background noise or tape hiss with it. It was actually a replacement for the 2121, or the 4040 upgrade to the 2121. They are unique little decks. I have a 7272 on the way, but looking at the schematics there is not really much of a difference in the mech and the board.
 
AE5582B5-9552-4017-BF5C-88F983E1BAC7.jpeg

Going to map out each board, not sure if that’s helpful to anyone, but if they need them I can send them over in a PDF or maybe I can post the file to this thread when I’m done. Either way, this helps me locate the leads from the foil side of a board a little faster when I have everything marked out ahead of times.

Let me see if I am able to post the cap list with part numbers that can be cut and saved.
 
There we go. Ill delete the previous posts that have pictures.. :)

The count of each cap needed is to the left of the values in the "()". Example, there are (8) 10uF 16V caps. You can cut and paste the part number in Mousers engine and it will generate the correct cap, please do let me know if anyone has any changes or any upgrades.

Total
:


1. (8) 10uF 16V – C103, C104, C107, C108, C405, C408, C410, & C501 – Mouser Part Number: 647-UKT1C100MDD1TD
2. (9) 10uF 25V – C113, C114, C203, C303, C304, C313, C314, C415, & C601 - Mouser Part Number: 647-UKT1E100MDD1TD
3. (3) 4.7uF 35V – C105, C106, & C201 - Mouser Part Number: 647-UKT1V4R7MDD
4. (2) 4.7uF 25V – C301 & C302 - Mouser Part Number: 647-UKT1E4R7MDD
5. (5) 47uF 10V – [Upgrade to 16V -25V] – C207, C307, C308, C311, & C312 - Mouser Part Number: 647-UKT1C470MDD1TA
6. (4) 100uF 25V – C317, C318, C402, & C704 - Mouser Part Number: 647-UKT1E101MED
7. (1) 100uF 35V – C703 - Mouser Part Number: 647-UKT1V101MED1TD
8. (1) 100uF 50V – C702 - Mouser Part Number: 647-UKW1H101MPD
9. (1) 0.47uF 50V – C602 - Mouser Part Number: 555-RFS50VR47ME3#5
10. (1) 0.47uF 10V [Upgrade to 50V] – C401 - Mouser Part Number: 555-RFS50VR47ME3#5
11. (2) 220uF 25V – C403 & C605 - Mouser Part Number: 647-UKA1E221MPD
12. (2) 0.33uF 10V [Upgrade to 16V-25V] – C412 & C503 - Mouser Part Number: 647-UFG1HR33MDM1TD
13. (4) 1uF 50V – C413, C502, C504, & C508 - Mouser Part Number: 555-RFS50V010ME3#5
14. (2) 33uF 25V – C603 & C604 - Mouser Part Number: 80-ESH336M025AC3AA
15. (2) 33uF 16V – C707 & C708 - Mouser Part Number: 647-UKA1C330MDD
16. (1) 470uF 50V – C701 - Mouser Part Number: 647-UKT1H471MHD1TO
17. (1) 1000uF 16V – C706 - Mouser Part Number: 647-UKA1C102MPD

Break down by boards -

Mother Assembly (RWX-164)
  1. C103 – 10uF 16V
  2. C104 – 10uF 16V
  3. C105 – 4.7uF 35V
  4. C106 - 4.7uF 35V
  5. C107 – 10uF 16V
  6. C108 – 10uF 16V
  7. C113 – 10uF 25V
  8. C114 – 10uF 25V
  9. C201 – 4.7uF 35V
  10. C203 – 10uF 25V
  11. C207 – 47uF 10V - Upgraded to 25V
Head Amplifier Assembly (RWF-071)
  1. C301 – 4.7uF 25V
  2. C302 – 4.7uF 25V
  3. C303 – 10uF 25V
  4. C304 – 10uF 25V
  5. C307 – 47uF 10V – Upgraded to 25V
  6. C308 – 47uF 10V – Upgraded to 25V
  7. C311 – 47uF 10V – Upgraded to 25V
  8. C312 – 47uF 10V – Upgraded to 25V
  9. C313 – 10uF 25V
  10. C314 – 10uF 25V
  11. C317 – 100uF 25V
  12. C318 – 100uF 25V
Dolby Processer Assembly (RWX-157)
  1. C401 – 0.47uF 10V – Upgraded to 25V
  2. C402 – 100uF 25V
  3. C403 – 220uF 16V – Upgraded to 25V
  4. C405 – 10uF 16V
  5. C408 – 10uF 16V
  6. C410 – 10uF 16V
  7. C412 – 0.33uF 10V - – Upgraded to 25V
  8. C413 – 1uF 50V
  9. C415 – 10uF 25V
Rec Amplifier Assembly (RWF-072)
  1. C501 – 10uF 16V
  2. C502 – 1uF 50V
  3. C503 – 0.33uF 10V – Upgraded to 25V
  4. C504 – 1uF 50V
  5. C508 – 1uF 50V
Muting Assembly (RWX-158)
  1. C601 – 10uF 25V
  2. C602 – 0.47uF 50V
  3. C603 – 33uF 25V
  4. C604 – 33uF 25V
  5. C605 – 220uF 25V
Power Supply Assembly (RWR-052)
  1. C701 – 470uF 50V
  2. C702 – 100uF 50V
  3. C703 – 100uF 35V
  4. C704 – 100uF 25V
  5. C706 – 1000uF 16V
  6. C707 – 33uF 16V
  7. C708 – 33uF 16V
 
I just did my CT-F9191 a few months ago, about 140 electrolytic caps in that one. It turned out well, posted in the pioneer section. Good luck with your recap I will be following along.
I found the play/record switch PCB the hardest, just had so many small components packed together as well as pins and wires getting in the way. Was hard to identify the correct pads to de-solder.
 

Attachments

  • FE5A8030-5279-4BEF-AD75-91064E04B7BD.jpeg
    FE5A8030-5279-4BEF-AD75-91064E04B7BD.jpeg
    170.2 KB · Views: 24
  • ECC6526E-9E62-451A-B384-7CADAAF59593.jpeg
    ECC6526E-9E62-451A-B384-7CADAAF59593.jpeg
    122.4 KB · Views: 23
Back
Top Bottom