Pioneer PL570 tonearm timing motor replaced

Old Guy8

Old Guy8

Cliff & Cleo
Subscriber
My Pioneer PL570 (original version) was slow to drop arm on rest and turn off and noisey while doing so. I cleaned auto mechanism motor cam and re-greased. Oiled pivot points. I'm sure I got auto out of its sequence. So now when plugged in, auto motor tries to turn, but mechanism is stopping it.
Maybe someone with auto turntable experience could untangle sequences, safely.
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Edit: Tonearm Timing Motor was replaced.
 
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Need gear(s) for PXM-048 Timing motor. Have WTB in Bartertown. If I can find. Have tech to repair it.
 
There is a tech in Aurora, IL that works on turntables and cassette decks.
I have had him service a few tables and 2 or 3 decks.
I had good experiences each time.
Message me for contact info if interested.
 
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Found a local tech. Recommended by my record shop.

Found an aftermarket new Japanese tonearm timing motor. Marked part# PTM-12EG (for USA voltage.) From a PL570 restorer in Washington State. An AKer led me to that contact.

My tech got tonearm running smoothly. No more grinding noises. He replaced six old caps, lubed and adjusted. Did a great job on it!!!

Suggestion for any PL570 owners (in USA). Find one of these motors for a backup. While you still can. Who knows how long they will be available.
 
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Old Guy8 said:
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Found a local tech. Recommended by my record shop.

Found an aftermarket new Japanese tonearm timing motor. Marked part# PTM-12EG (for USA voltage.) From a PL570 restorer in Washington State. An AKer led me to that contact.

My tech got tonearm running smoothly. No more grinding noises. He replaced six old caps, lubed and adjusted. Did a great job on it!!!

Suggestion for any PL570 owners (in USA). Find one of these motors for a backup. While you still can. Who knows how long they will be available.
Click to expand...
Looks great. Nice you have a Technics for backup.
 
needforspeed said:
Looks great. Nice you have a Technics for backup.
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Thanks Speedy.
The vinyl Wrap is tired. Lettering has disappeared in spots.

But, my Tech did a good job on its mechanicals. The old timing motor was grinding pretty bad. Wasn't his first PL570 rodeo.

Have a Shure M95 with LP Gear Vivid microline on it. I also have an ADC XLM II, that came with it. May have been original as bought. I never found definite specs on tonearm compliance. But, looks like medium compliance to me.
 
Old Guy8 said:
Thanks Speedy.
The vinyl Wrap is tired. Lettering has disappeared in spots.

But, my Tech did a good job on its mechanicals. The old timing motor was grinding pretty bad. Wasn't his first PL570 rodeo.

Have a Shure M95 with LP Gear Vivid microline on it. I also have an ADC XLM II, that came with it. May have been original as bought. I never found definite specs on tonearm compliance. But, looks like medium compliance to me.
Click to expand...
That Shure is a nice combo.
 
Old Guy8 said:
View attachment 2643419
View attachment 2662730
Found a local tech. Recommended by my record shop.

Found an aftermarket new Japanese tonearm timing motor. Marked part# PTM-12EG (for USA voltage.) From a PL570 restorer in Washington State. An AKer led me to that contact.

My tech got tonearm running smoothly. No more grinding noises. He replaced six old caps, lubed and adjusted. Did a great job on it!!!

Suggestion for any PL570 owners (in USA). Find one of these motors for a backup. While you still can. Who knows how long they will be available.
Click to expand...
Hi there. Would you mind sharing your techs contact info with me here or in a pm? I’m hoping I can find one of these motors
 
BigChungus said:
Hi there. Would you mind sharing your techs contact info with me here or in a pm? I’m hoping I can find one of these moTe
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The issue is not so much the motor, but the gearbox that sits on top of the motor. The internal grease tends to harden over time, and causes increased resistance to the reduction gears. Eventually the main gear will stop spinning and strip.

The good news is you don't have to hunt down the entire motor assemble! Search on ebay for 'Pioneer PL-570 gear.' for the replacement gear. It's expensive and currently at ~$60.

To FIX:
1) take plenty of pictures, especially noting the height and spacing of the motor mount and position
2) remove existing motor assemble
3) open gear box
4) replace gear. Will take a bit of force to push existing spindle into gear
5) lubricate
6) re-assemble

Good luck.
 
WFHDad said:
The issue is not so much the motor, but the gearbox that sits on top of the motor. The internal grease tends to harden over time, and causes increased resistance to the reduction gears. Eventually the main gear will stop spinning and strip.

The good news is you don't have to hunt down the entire motor assemble! Search on ebay for 'Pioneer PL-570 gear.' for the replacement gear. It's expensive and currently at ~$60.

To FIX:
1) take plenty of pictures, especially noting the height and spacing of the motor mount and position
2) remove existing motor assemble
3) open gear box
4) replace gear. Will take a bit of force to push existing spindle into gear
5) lubricate
6) re-assemble

Good luck.
Click to expand...
What do you recommend lubricating with? White lithium grease? How about greasing the cam?
 
BigChungus said:
Hi there. Would you mind sharing your techs contact info with me here or in a pm? I’m hoping I can find one of these motors
Click to expand...
I bought the motor from John Mathies, RIP. Think he charged around $90 at the time. I have seen them from other sellers since.

A local Rockford, Illinois tech, Joe Martin, did the repair on mine. He replaced the motor. Replaced some original capacitors. He said was a good idea to do so. Lubed mechanicals. Don't think he replaced any gears outside of motor subassembly. Otherwise I would have done the search and purchase of those, too. Prior to repair the automation worked with grinding noises. After, is smooth and grinding free.

I repaired a rotational rub of platter. By polishing nylon or delron thrust washer the platter spindle 5mm bearing ball sits on. It had worn a convex dimple from ball. I left a thread on AK about that process.

I haven't tackled the pealling vinyl. That looks like an envolved project to disassemble and re-assemble in right condition.

Good luck with your TT.
 
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Old Guy8 said:
I bought the motor from John Mathies, RIP. Think he charged around $90 at the time. I have seen them from other sellers since.

A local Rockford, Illinois tech, Joe Martin, did the repair on mine. He replaced the motor. Replaced some original capacitors. He said was a good idea to do so. Lubed mechanicals. Don't think he replaced any gears outside of motor subassembly. Otherwise I would have done the search and purchase of those, too. Prior to repair the automation worked with grinding noises. After, is smooth and grinding free.

I repaired a rotational rub of platter. By polishing nylon or delron thrust washer the platter spindle 5mm bearing ball sits on. It had worn a convex dimple from ball. I left a thread on AK about that process.

I haven't tackled the pealling vinyl. That looks like an envolved project to disassemble and re-assemble in right condition.

Good luck with your TT.
Click to expand...
I was successful in replacing the broken gear inside the timing motor.
Took a couple tries and about 7 hours of tear down and assembly!
 
BigChungus said:
Does anyone here know what bulb I can use to replace the strobe lamp bulb?
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I’ve not come across a lamp part for the PL-570 on eBay in the last few years.
BTW, this is a neon lamp and not an ordinary incandescent bulb.

There are other neon bulbs available now, specifically two PL-530 lamps on eBay. These are from the same period and series. No idea if it’s a perfect match. Hope this helps.
 
BigChungus said:
I was successful in replacing the broken gear inside the timing motor.
Took a couple tries and about 7 hours of tear down and assembly!
Click to expand...
Haha the struggle is real! Glad you got this to work! I would assume this is one of the most difficult turntables to work on. Few more things of note:

1) If the tonearm return swing get a bit abrupt, then chances are the rubber foam damping pad rotted away. Cut a piece of window insulation, rubber eraser, or even a mouse pad (tip from John) as a substitute.

2) if tonearm return action is off, there is an set screw for adjustment.

3) helps to add a bit of damper fluid on the tonearm riser to make the decent and ascend super-smooth and satisfying to watch.
 
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