Pioneer SA9800

R

RetroKid

New Member
Hi there
I'm new to this forum.
I'm using a Pioneer SA 8800 with the SG9800 EQ and AR 94 speakers.
Love the old pioneer retro sound and look.
Finally managed to save up and treat myself to a Pioneer SA9800 amplifier!!
The only problem is i feel the treble is not a sweet sounding as that of the SA8800.
Could this be down to a 'problem' with the SA9800?
Any comments and suggestions very welcome.
Kind regards,
RetroKid.
 
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1st off, welcome to AK Kid. I use one major rule when purchasing any retro gear. That being it first gets a good cleaning of the Contacts/Switches/Pots, etc.. The biggest majority of problems can be fixed by just performing a thorough cleaning. Plus it allows you to do a visual inspection of boards and such to see if there might be any potential or existing problems. I'm sure there will be other more qualified members chiming in. Enjoy your stay on AK.
 
I had both of those integrated amps back around the late 70's --- first the SA-8800 and then the SA-9800. While it HAS been a long time ago, I don't remember hearing any noticable difference (and I've ALWAYS been a picky and analytical bastard!!).
 
there is definitely more bass weight in sound with the 9800 , but feel it should be equally crisp in the treble as the 8800,as being the next one up , maybe the next step is to test on some kind of meter but what are the manufacturers settings
 
Clean the controls and speaker relay, first. May need to take it in for servicing and adjusting.
 
cleaned the switches and controls as best as i could seems not much difference, could you tell me the best way to clean speaker relay ,please and where to locate thanks, retroboy
 
When you cleaned the pots and switches did you drop them out of the face plate so you could get to them? Just removing the knobs and using the cleaner doesn't do as good as a job as having full access to the switches and pots. Here is what I had to do to my SA-8800 in order to shoot the cleaner into the pots and switches to insure it was getting where it should.


88-20.jpg
 
i see where your coming from, v good picture of your amp i wasnt as professional as you have been , came in from the top side with cover off ,the speaker selector was quite dirty ,which i removed and cleaned, thanks for your time ,kind regards,
 
ok, enough of this ambiguity.... :D
edit- should'a said it with a smile... :stupid:


cleaner or deoxit???

as I have said before, cleaner gives you CLEAN corroded metal that is interfering with the conduction of the signal through the contact.

deoxit loosens the bonds between the sulphates of the corrosion (blame air pollution ) and the uncorroded base metal below. then repeated actuation scrubs a clean streak at the contact's path.

I have SEEN the density of corrosion vary with the degree of ease of air infiltration in long switches, where the end blades and outside faces of the blades are more darkened by corrosion than elsewhere.

optional deoxit gold slows the corrosion - it is a protectant, but with minimal lubricating properties - deoxit itself has minimal lubricating properties, which is why pots get faderlubed after deoxiting, to prevent premature wearout.

every last bit of this cleaner / deoxit stuff has been PERSONALLY VISUALLY VERIFIED by teardown analysis by me.
 
Last edited:
markthefixer said:
ok, enough of this ambiguity....

cleaner or deoxit???

as I have said before, cleaner gives you CLEAN corroded metal that is interfering with the conduction of the signal through the contact.

deoxit loosens the bonds between the sulphates of the corrosion (blame air pollution ) and the uncorroded base metal below. then repeated actuation scrubs a clean streak at the contact's path.

I have SEEN the density of corrosion vary with the degree of ease of air infiltration in long switches, where the end blades and outside faces of the blades are more darkened by corrosion than elsewhere.

optional deoxit gold slows the corrosion - it is a protectant, but with minimal lubricating properties - deoxit itself has minimal lubricating properties, which is why pots get faderlubed after deoxiting, to prevent premature wearout.

every last bit of this cleaner / deoxit stuff has been PERSONALLY VISUALLY VERIFIED by teardown analysis by me.
Click to expand...

I will try and be more specific in the future when I give any advice on "cleaning" of the aforementioned pots/switches/sliders/etc.. I ass-u-med that the OP knew about the appropriate product to use, my bad.

Kid, here is a "link" to a thread that will give you some good information on how to clean the contacts, and the specific DeOxit product to use based upon the contact being cleaned.

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=207005
 
nice useful info much appreciated thank you very much .will do this procedure soon and post back thanks for the insight
 
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