Questions on 1971 KLH Model Twenty speakers

[gushtone]

Hi all,
Today I picked up a near mint pair of 1971 KLH Model Twenty's for $40, and included was a near mint set of cute little Reasistic MC-500's. Cool! Question on the KLH's:
1) Anyone know the wattage rating on these babies? They appear to be very well made and the drivers are in fantastic shape.
2) WHere could I pick up a proper, quality set of terminal posts to replace the rca jacks?
Thanks!
Peace...,

 

[willhowl]

Here Ya Go.......

Howdy, gushtone....... Take yerself a look at this website.......

classic speaker pages.net.........LOTSA good stuff here.........much on KLH, and many others........ check it out........

Enjoy your Model Twenty's .....I really like my Model Thirty-Two's...........

That's all for now......willhowl:tresbon:

 

[anden]

The model twenty speakers came with the model twenty modular system which was about 15-20 wpc, but this system did sound as if it had more power. The twenty can be used with any 20-40 wpc receiver. If you provide the serial number on yours...I can tell you the aproximate year, they likely are before 1971 since KLH introduced their second generation systems in '71. Also remember...The twenty's are 4 ohm, not 8 ohm.

Here's my article on the KLH modular systems of 1960's, the model twenty inparticular ~

http://www.antiqueradio.com/Mar06_Hayden_Kloss.html

 

[gushtone]

Thanks willhowl and anden. anden, one of these has teh date stemped on the face of the baffle under the grill. WIll take a look around. Also, my tweeters have a wacky thin aluminum screen over them that is not on the pics of others I have seen. They could be a rtansitional model. I will poost the serial numbers tonight or tomorrow to see. And thanks for the articla and site tips.
PS: any recommendations on a place to get those posts?
Peace...

 

[anden]

gushtone - If you have a date stamped on the baffle, that'll be the age for sure. Some KLH's had that screen over the tweeter - others not ? Mine also have them (see photo in my article above).

Others may know a good source for terminal posts.

 

[michiganpat]

http://www.parts-express.com/wizards/searchResults.cfm?srchExt=CAT&srchCat=107

http://meniscusaudio.com/terminals-cups-c-112.html

while you're in there, replace the crossover capacitors with some poly film erse pulseX, solen, or dayton caps.

 

[boreas]

Others may know a good source for terminal posts.

Radio Shack sells them. On the other hand, if you're handy, you can make them easily. What you need (per speaker) is the following:

2 ea. #8-32 round headed machine screws
2 ea. #8-32 hex nuts
2 ea. #8-32 knurled nuts
2 ea. 1/8" flat washers
4 ea. 1/8" fiber washers
2 ea. crimp connectors w/ a 1/8" hole

You can get probably all of this at a decent hardware store (not a "home improvement center" like Home Depot). Oddly, you might find it easier to get the knurled nuts in brass so, if you can get the machine screws, flat washers and hex nuts in brass too, that would be cool.

1. So, to begin, remove the woofers and fiberglass. At this point you'll be able to access the crossover plate.

2. Drill 2 holes in the crossover plate to accept the machine screws, ideally, equally spaced on either side of the RCA jack.

3. You can either cut the wires connected to the RCAs at the RCA or run new wires from the crossover for the binding posts you're about to install if you want to retain the option of using the RCA connections.

4. Put the crimp connectors on the ends of the wires, either the snipped existing ones or if you're retaining the RCAs, on the ends of your new wires.

5. Insert the machine screws through the hole in the crimp connector.

6. Next, slide one of the fiber washers onto the machine screw and insert the machine screw into the hole you drilled in the crossover plate.

7. On the outside of the crossover plate install first another fiber washer, the flat washer and then the hex nut. Tighten.

8. The knurled nut goes on last.

One last thing. Since the Model Twenty is an acoustic suspension speaker, a well sealed cabinet is important. An RCA jack without something inserted into it constitutes a fairly significant air leak. To correct this, just stick an RCA plug, either scavenged from something or purchased new, into the jack.

John

 

[gushtone]

Awesome, thanks gang.

 

[tiga]

Nice speaker you have there - 4ohm versions of the KLH 17. Recap them and enjoy.

 

[gushtone]

More KLH fun! Picking up a very nice pair of 17's tonight as well, locally for $60. Question, what brand caps and speaker doping compound do you guys recommend for these babies?

Also, hooked up the Twenty's to my 85 watt Onkyo AV receiver just for a test drive, and they (no exageration) have little to no bottom. Is that a crossover/cap thing? Or could it be my sh*tty rig job wiring to get signal to the RCA's till I get some terminals installed?

Thanks!
Peace...

 

[icenine]

The Daytons are good...some say redoping is good some say it is not necessary and could "stiffen" your woofers...you may want to some research before doing that.

 

[tiga]

I redoped mine and it helped the bass. I think going through and re-sealing the cabinet and drivers would help even more. What was said before is correct - do the research before redoping. Some products can change in consistency over time and negatively affect the performance of the woofer. I used RoyC's special formula and all is well. These are great speakers - very enjoyable and non-fatiguing. They are great for extended listening sessions.

 

[audiojones]

...hooked up the Twenty's to my 85 watt Onkyo AV receiver just for a test drive, and they (no exageration) have little to no bottom. Is that a crossover/cap thing? Or could it be my sh*tty rig job wiring to get signal to the RCA's till I get some terminals installed?

Thanks!
Peace...

Make sure that they are wired in phase (the positive or red terminals from your amp should be connected to the center pins of the jacks on the KLH speakers). If one of them is reversed they will sound like crap.

 

[gushtone]

Hey guys, is there a specific cap value and/or brand for the crossover that will open up the bottom on these KLH 20/17's? I just picked up a super nice pair of Model 17's (I guess these are 8 ohm versions of the 20 at 4 ohms, or vice versa), which sound really nice but they could use a bit more kick in teh bottom too. Any suggestions working within the parameters of this driver and cab?

 

[kirk57]

Radio Shack sells them. On the other hand, if you're handy, you can make them easily. What you need (per speaker) is the following:

2 ea. #8-32 round headed machine screws
2 ea. #8-32 hex nuts
2 ea. #8-32 knurled nuts
2 ea. 1/8" flat washers
4 ea. 1/8" fiber washers
2 ea. crimp connectors w/ a 1/8" hole

You can get probably all of this at a decent hardware store (not a "home improvement center" like Home Depot). Oddly, you might find it easier to get the knurled nuts in brass so, if you can get the machine screws, flat washers and hex nuts in brass too, that would be cool.

1. So, to begin, remove the woofers and fiberglass. At this point you'll be able to access the crossover plate.

2. Drill 2 holes in the crossover plate to accept the machine screws, ideally, equally spaced on either side of the RCA jack.

3. You can either cut the wires connected to the RCAs at the RCA or run new wires from the crossover for the binding posts you're about to install if you want to retain the option of using the RCA connections.

4. Put the crimp connectors on the ends of the wires, either the snipped existing ones or if you're retaining the RCAs, on the ends of your new wires.

5. Insert the machine screws through the hole in the crimp connector.

6. Next, slide one of the fiber washers onto the machine screw and insert the machine screw into the hole you drilled in the crossover plate.

7. On the outside of the crossover plate install first another fiber washer, the flat washer and then the hex nut. Tighten.

8. The knurled nut goes on last.

One last thing. Since the Model Twenty is an acoustic suspension speaker, a well sealed cabinet is important. An RCA jack without something inserted into it constitutes a fairly significant air leak. To correct this, just stick an RCA plug, either scavenged from something or purchased new, into the jack.

John

I also use a rubber grommet in the hole, just to be 100% sure that the connectors are isolated from the aluminum terminal plate.

 

[alteclipsch]

Nice speaker you have there - 4ohm versions of the KLH 17. Recap them and enjoy.

Why did klh make a 4 ohm version of the 17?

 

[GD70]

The caps only effect the highs, not the low end. From what you describe, your woofer surrounds are porous. Get the sealer from Roy C., who developed it, or ebay seller "vintage-ar". It's the ONLY sealer to use on any KLH speaker with cloth surrounds on the woofers, or mids in the model Fives.

It may take two applications for a correct air tight seal. Once done, you will notice a very nice bass response from these.

Good luck!
Glenn

 

[nerdorama]

Glenn, it's only been a few months since you posted this, but I can't find "vintage-ar" on the auction site. How do I find/contact Roy C?
Thanks,
John

 

[DaveWho1]

Likewise.

I bought a Model Twenty today, complete with original speakers, manual, etc., so I'm looking to spiff all these pieces up and make 'em work as they were intended to.

 

[GD70]

Glenn, it's only been a few months since you posted this, but I can't find "vintage-ar" on the auction site. How do I find/contact Roy C?
Thanks,
John

Hey John,

Go to google and type vintage-ar, it's the first listing that shows up. Just did it and it took me right to his eBay store.