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Realistic Speaker ID please

Rene:

... I think the highs may be this speaker's weakest point. But maybe when I have time to play with the controls on the back I can dial them in more to my liking.
Well, that may be typical of the "East Coast" sound they were voiced for. If you have not owned vintage KLH's or AR's, that may be the reason for your initial reaction. Having said that, the other reason may well be due to the dried-out caps in the crossover. I really doubt that there is a very sophisticated x-over network in there. Likely nothing more than a couple of caps. Maybe even just one. Pull the woofer, find the x-over and clip out the old cap(s). Read the value and go up to AK sponsor Parts Express and get a Dayton cap (or 2) to replace the old one(s). Pretty easy really and this pair of speaks is a perfect candidate for a first re-cap. Dive in, AK is here and has your back! ;)

Dave
 
Wolverine: Thanks for the link! I'm sorry I forgot to mention above that I was looking at the catalog thanks to your being kind enough to post that Rat Shack catalog link.

relaximus: Thanks for the info on the caps. One of my very first pair of speakers were a pair of KLH 103, so I am a little familiar with the East Coast sound. I think part of my initial reaction is also due to my swapping out a pair of Thiels to listen to these Realistics. After a few minutes of listening to "Kind of Blue," I moved the controls to "High" and am happier with the sound of the cymbals.
 
xxxxx drumroll xxxxxx

BarryWest: Can you please tell me about the recapping ... did you do anything with the adjuster switches?

Thanks!

Congrats, I think you will like them. I gave my 5B's to my Dad and he loves them. They are mated to a vintage Nikko amp right now. As for the recaps, my 5B's had a pair of 5v elnas (electrolytic type). I replaced em' with 250v solen capicators (polypropylene film type). The difference is sound quality was noticeable. I did not bother with the adjuster switches as from what I have read, they really don't change much and it was not worth my while. Try some howard's wax n' feed on the cabs, they are quite beautiful and weight a ton! :D
 
... They were supposedly based off of the design of the KLH-5 and the driver layout is similar but the Realistic is a bit smaller.

Indeed, Mr. Wolverine! I just went and visited the classic speaker page about the KLH 5s and I feel like what Yogi Berra said (" ... like deja vu all over again")

I need to look over the KLH info some more, but the similarities are striking (e.g. two midranges, the controls on the back (except the KLH are rotary and Rat Shack's are sliding) .... ) Really, just like Yogi said.

The 5B are growing on me by the minute, and the fact that I payed so little definitely is a bonus. They are relatively efficient, and don't mind some power.

Thanks to everyone for your help and especially encouraging me to go after them! :yes:
 
Indeed, Mr. Wolverine! I just went and visited the classic speaker page about the KLH 5s and I feel like what Yogi Berra said (" ... like deja vu all over again")

I need to look over the KLH info some more, but the similarities are striking (e.g. two midranges, the controls on the back (except the KLH are rotary and Rat Shack's are sliding) .... ) Really, just like Yogi said.

The 5B are growing on me by the minute, and the fact that I payed so little definitely is a bonus. They are relatively efficient, and don't mind some power.

Thanks to everyone for your help and especially encouraging me to go after them! :yes:

You might be interested in this thread where I took some side by side photos of my KLH 5's and Optimus 5's.

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=237952
 
I have the Nova 7B. Similar, with 10" woofer and two of those anemic tweeters that RS used in dozens of models. These tweeters are 16-ohm wired in parallel to give 8-ohms. Crossover in the 7B is one cap to the tweeters with a choke in the woofer circuit. The switch cuts in one or two 2-ohm resistors in series with the tweeters. High setting is direct with no attenuation. In my opinion, it needs a boost in the highs, not a cut, so I replaced the tweeters, enlarged one of the baffle openings to accept a 4" midrange and made the network into a simple three-way crossover. Mids are a mid-fi Pioneer unit and the tweeters are Yamaha NS-25 carbon-fiber domes.

Woofer has the RS "forever" surround, not known to rot easily, if at all. The surrounds can, however, be perforated with a screwdriver! :sigh: At least it left a neat hole, not a tear.

I had the new tweeter in and out a few times while the speaker was playing, and just as the tweeter was blocking up the opening, I noticed the bass improved quite a bit versus sealed. So, I'm going to experiment with adding a ducted port to mine.

-Ed
 
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