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recapping dcm timewindows....
- Thread starter dowey
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relaximus
Consoles 'Я' Us
I seem to remember that the top and bottom plates, of the original TimeWindows, were held on with wooden dowels in a fashion similar to the TimeFrames. I don't believe they were glued, merely press-fit.
Why do you feel they need to be recapped?
If the insides of the original TimeWindows are anything like my TimeWindow 3's, I'd have to agree with KingBubba.
Dave
Why do you feel they need to be recapped?
If the insides of the original TimeWindows are anything like my TimeWindow 3's, I'd have to agree with KingBubba.
Dave
bilboda
Active Member
It aint so much the degree of difficulty as the ability to get it right. You got more than your normal crossovers in there. There is a long thread at avsforum about these. Best get your reading glasses on an look first. They are wonderful speakers and if old caps that should be replaced could be replaced right, I'd consider doing it too.
cabinover
Dazed and Confused
IIRC my pair were glued onto the dowels. Doesn't matter though as there is a glued in pie-shaped piece underneath it that prevents easy access to the innards.
Susurus
Resolution:6.62×10^-34
There's a strip up the back holding on the grill material. That's the first place to look before giving up trying to dismantle these.
Well the TW-1 and 1a are a bit different. The 1 is positioned with dowels and then glued. By now the glue is dried and brittle, so it's easier to knock loose. Do not twist the Model 1 (non-A)...
Since the sound of these is highly dependent on the properties of the (1/4 wave ish or TL ish) cabinets, when you put them back together seal every joint, and do both cabs exactly the same for best imaging. Read up on 1/4 wave and TL. Are you a perfectionist like Monk? Good. You have measuring software, mikes, and patience? Good.
Be sure to check polarity etc. Might not want to open em up a second time for a minor glitch.
Well the TW-1 and 1a are a bit different. The 1 is positioned with dowels and then glued. By now the glue is dried and brittle, so it's easier to knock loose. Do not twist the Model 1 (non-A)...
Since the sound of these is highly dependent on the properties of the (1/4 wave ish or TL ish) cabinets, when you put them back together seal every joint, and do both cabs exactly the same for best imaging. Read up on 1/4 wave and TL. Are you a perfectionist like Monk? Good. You have measuring software, mikes, and patience? Good.
Be sure to check polarity etc. Might not want to open em up a second time for a minor glitch.
