Rectilinear Model III "Highboys" Are Differant?

dc270

Now Off the Reservation
I did some horse trading with a local AK member and aquired some Rec. "Highboys"- but they are slighly differant! One has a 2.5" port theo other a 2" port, one fiberglass stuffing, the other cotton seed stuffing and some minor xover value and lpad differances. Are thse two differant models? The drivers all look to be the same.

Just curious if I got two odd ones.Pics to come later after I refinish them!
DC
 
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I saved the text below from one of the previous AK posts on Rect III -- but forget who the original source is! Hope he speaks up, because this is solid info. Bet if you did a Search on Rect III crossovers, the author would become clear.

I have a pair of v3 I bought from the original owner. One of my favorite speakers -- the least fatiguing and a real sonic bargain for the price. There were a pair recently on that auction site which went unsold for $99. Costly to ship.


For the Archives: What I've learned about Rectilinear III's

I'm testing out some share-ware schematic software, so I thought I'd share some Rectilinear schematics I drew up.

When I obtained some of these nice speakers I could find very little about them on the net, so I thought I'd post what I've learned about them. Feel free to add to this if you have additions or corrections, and I'll add more as I get more, including photos, when and if I get inside the cabs again.

So far as I can tell, there are 4 versions of the Rectilinear III Highboy. I'll call them v1, v2, v3, and IIIa. I myself have two pairs, one is a mismatched pair of v1 and v2, and one is a complete pair of v3. Here's a rundown:

v1: from the late 60's (it is penciled "woofer replaced 1969," so it must be from before then). It has a Jensen 12" Woofer, an alnico Philips whizzer 4.5" midrange (actually a full-range operating as a midrange), and four peerless cone tweeters, two of which are super-tweeters. It has one tweeter pot on the back, and the tweeters have square frames. The crossover schematic is the same as the one attached below, except sub an 8 Ohm resistor for the midrange pot.

v2: also from the late 60's. Jensen woofer, ceramic Philips whizzer mid, and Peerless tweeters with circle frames. Two pots for tweets and mid on the back. The crossover schematic is attached and titled "Rectilinear III 1969"

v3: From the early 70's (the woofer EIA code indicates 1971). CTS woofer, Philips whizzer mid (I assume ceramic, but I haven't opened up the glued-in mid enclosure), and peerless tweets like v2. Two pots for tweets and mid on the back. The port is wider in diameter than the earlier versions, and the connectors in the internal wiring are not soldered like the earlier versions (which makes it much easier to service). The crossover is the biggest difference, since it is a series crossover rather than a parrallel crossover. Supposedly the series crossovers have some advantages when you are tuning the crossovers by ear, since they are self-balancing (please someone correct me on my very limited understanding of this). I've attached the crossover schematic below, named "Rectilinear III 1971"

IIIa: I haven't seen one in person, but I've seen photos. These are clearly marked model IIIa on the back (the III versions 1,2, and 3 are not marked with model numbers). The mids and woofers look like lower-quality drivers, much like pioneer OEM drivers. The mid is not a whizzer, and doesn't look like a Philips. From what I understand, the IIIa was cheaper, and generally not very well received.

Summary: They started with Jensen woofers, alnico mids, and one tweeter pot. At some point they switched to ceramic mids, a later version of the tweets with circlular frames, and added a mid-range pot. The crossover remained pretty much the same. Then, around 1970 or so, they redesigned the crossover, and switched to CTS woofers. I *think* this was around the time they introduced the Low-Boy version. At some later point, they introduced the IIIa, which had lower-quality drivers, and was sold at a lower price point.
 
WOW what great information, THANKS for securing it!

HMMM...apears I have a version II and III....If I increase the port on one to a 2.5" it will pretty much match the other one- the xovers are pretty close with one having a larger LPad in it. I will have to replace one of the 2.5" tweeters as it is torn, but will probably go ahead and replace the two larger tweeters in each cabinet and keep them matched up as much as possible. I will leave the two, 2 inch " super tweeters" as they are in each cabinet. The mids are both Phillips but with no whizzer cones, the woofers are the same. I'll press on to get them identical.
Thanks again,
DC
 
Hi dc270,

That info was something I posted a few months ago just based on the different versions I had seen. The thing is, between versions 2 and 3, there was a major crossover re-design, which doesn't bode well for trying to make a matched pair. I turned a pair of version 1 and 2 into a matched pair with little difficulty, but the crossover re-design between 2 and 3 is pretty drastic.

That said, if it's true that the two versions you have really do have very similar crossovers (i.e. they are wired identically, and have the same value capacitors), then you've discovered another variation that I didn't include in the posting quoted above. An easy way to determine whether the crossovers match is to look at the caps. Both speakers should have two caps: one is 2uF; the other is either 60uF or 100uF. The 60uF would be marked as such, the 100uF would probably be marked "xmc." If the second cap is the same in both then you're in luck. If they are different, you may have a little trouble getting them to match.

If you post pics of the crossovers that would also help. I have also posted schematics of the two different types of crossovers here on AK.
 
Thanks again for your help here-I will try to post pics later. from what all I can tell there is a 45uf cap in one and a 50uf cap in another with one having a slighly larger mid LPad. I would say they are the same.
DC
 
Looks like you've found yet another variation on these! It's also interesting that your mids don't have whizzer cones. You don't have any idea when they were made, do you? I'd love to see pics when you get a chance...
 
Here are some pics of the project so far and of the xovers as well. The mids are Phillips and now sport whizzer cones thanks to a donation from a couple of old German mid drivers.and a bit of surgery & stitching!

I refinished the cabs so they would look better- I still have some issues though with a blown 2.5 tweeter that I will have to replace with an updated model. They do sound quite good and I am impressed despite a couple of the 2.5" in one cab that are not working!
DC
 
Those are nice looking cabinets!

You've definitely got the re-designed series crossover, not the earlier parallel crossover. It's curious that one of them has a 45uF cap instead of the 60uF, though. Are you planning to re-cap them?

For the tweeters, check with AK member ARRAY, I believe he has some Matsushita versions that work. Also, I've heard Roger Russell has the original Peerless versions for sale too. They aren't advertised on his site--you have to email him.

Those mids are a total PIA to replace with all that glue. Looks like you made a much cleaner job of it than I did...
 
My first pair of llls look like the one with the cotton stuffing, but the larger cap reads xmc and there is a different looking resistor as well. The donor pair I just picked up has the CTS woofers, and clearly 2uf and 60uf marked caps. It had the larger port and the fiberglass fill. The grills were also a thinner more orange material than the thick wooly brown that my first (older) pair has. The donor pair also has rotted larger peerless tweeters which makes me concerned that my keeper pair may yet experience the same problem. The four smaller ones were still intact however.
 
Those are nice looking cabinets!

You've definitely got the re-designed series crossover, not the earlier parallel crossover. It's curious that one of them has a 45uF cap instead of the 60uF, though. Are you planning to re-cap them?

For the tweeters, check with AK member ARRAY, I believe he has some Matsushita versions that work. Also, I've heard Roger Russell has the original Peerless versions for sale too. They aren't advertised on his site--you have to email him.

Those mids are a total PIA to replace with all that glue. Looks like you made a much cleaner job of it than I did...

Thanks for the cabinet praise!
Do you think these will suffice for the tweeters?

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=270-032

I am leaningtowards these for the two larger tweeters to replace in each cab and leave the other super tweets as they are.
The old mid that came out was shot, the other cab had no mid in it- so I had a couple of the 8 ohm Phillps mids from some Infinity wrecks tht I used here. Carefully glued in the whizzer cone and they sound and look like the originals!

I never had the "Recs" before, now I see why they are so popular as they look pretty good and sound even better!
 
I've never tried those tweeters, but they look like suitable replacements to me (and cheaper than the other options, too). When I replaced a pair, I happened to get lucky on ebay for some peerless ones. I really hope the supertweeters never go, though, since I've never seen them up for auction, and pioneer doesn't have replacements.

I sometimes wonder about chucking all those old-fashioned cone tweeters, and replacing them with a newer ribbon tweeter or something similar. Better yet, I'd keep all the cone tweeters as well as a newer tweeter on the same baffle, and add a switch to alternate between them.

I love the laid-back, non-fatiguing, smooth highs on the Rec's for most music, but with some kinds of music I find myself wanting just a little more clarity and sparkle in the upper-end.
 
Those PE speakers should be a close enough match- if not a bit hot at 93 db/spl!! I am thinking you might be correct in wanting to use a couple ribbons in them as they are very open sounding indeed. I would love to experiment with these but am only wanting to restore as near to original for the next hopeful owner!
Thanks again for all you help and kind words.
DC
 
Well for my opinion...

it's a shame to think I couldn't get anyone to buy them for $50....total...:tears:

Congrats to dc270 for a solid...what 5 days work.... and those and the Technics are almost good to go....?:ntwrthy:
 
Rec III's

it's a shame to think I couldn't get anyone to buy them for $50....total...:tears:

What, Rec III's for $50.00? My 17 yr old son will sing the Rec III praises, so for $50.00 that is a steal. As mentioned above, sometimes a little more clarity would be nice but they are non-fatigueing and I have some HPM-60's as the the B pair so I can just play them at the same time if I want.
 
Looks like have the version 1 highboys and I need a midrange replacement and some info on what that elusive larger xover cap is rated? I read different thoughts,, 60uf,, 80uf,, 95 uf,, , anyone know which to use for version 1 rectilinear highboy xover? the smaller cap is clearly labled 2.0uf 250v
 
I have a set of version 1 Rec IIIs. I love them.

I've heard these referred to as "party speakers" which I take to mean they're loud but don't sound very good. I don't find that to be the case. Even a little bit.
 
Hey,

User Kirk57 said his early version were 95uF and my early version were 100uF. You can take what you like from those values in ours!

xo, Biggles
 
Is the mid a Phillips SQ8 or something like that? I know the ones with the mid whizzer cone are very rare- but the regular SQ8's are common enough- I even have a whizzer cone to fit the voice coil should you need it!
DC
 
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