Scan Speak 18W 8542 00 voice coil stuck

rherber1

New Member
Back in the mid 90's I built a pair of speakers along the lines of the Pro-ac Supertower. I purchased all Scan Speak and Dynaudio tweeters drivers from Simply Speakers in the US. The Scan Speak units were all made in Denmark.

The 18W speakers were refoamed after about 7 years and after another 6 years or so they were showing signs of needing a repeat operation. I was fairly stretched financially at the time so I didn't do the refoam - I simply left the speakers sit idle in a spare room and used another pair of speakers.

This week I decided I should do something about getting the18W/8542's back in operation so I stripped them from the cabinets in preparation. I was surprised to find that the first speaker I started work on had absolutely no voice coil travel whatsoever - it was firmly stuck. Inspection of the magnets and rear pole piece plate strongly indicated that the magnet and pole piece had shifted considerably and thus trapped one side of the voice coil in the air gap. The second speaker also exhibited scraping when the cone was depressed and the same indication of magnet/pole piece movement was evident. Inspection of the other two speakers indicated that one of them was also exhibiting signs of magnet/pole piece shifting.

The speaker with the trapped voice coil was the obvious candidate to dismantle first so I started out on that. Whenever I have tried to remove ceramic magnets from modern drivers with burnt out voice coils I have found it extremely difficult if not impossible to separate the magnet and pole piece but on this Scan Speak driver I found it very easy to get the blade of my pocket knife between the magnet and pole piece plate using nothing more than a gentle tap on the back of the blade with a plastic screwdriver handle. By gently levering up the rear plate and inserting plastic spacers all round and progressively increasing the size of the spacers I was able to reduce the magnetic attraction to a point where I could lift the pole piece fully out. I then found that it was just as easy to separate the magnet from the front plate so that I could eventually release the voice coil. Sadly the voice coil and former had been damaged to some extent such that I would not be confident the driver would perform optimally even if I could get everything back in place.So I decided that this speaker was a write-off.

Now why would the adhesive used to fix the magnet to the pole piece and front plate just fail? A close inspection of the adhgesive on the areas on the magnet and metal plates showed it was extremely thin and not an epoxy or similar strong adhesive. Firstly the areas covered by the adhesive were no more than 30% of the total area on both faces of the magnet. When the adhesive was scraped with the blade of my knife it came of off easily and was fairly hard and brittle and left an essentially clean surface when removed. The adhesive was clear and had a similar appearance to dried cyanoacrylate (superglue) which I thought was very odd. Whatever the adhesive was it was NOT suitable for holding a strong ceramic magnet and iron pole pieces together in speaker drivers .

I then attacked the second speaker and found exactly the same problem. Fortunately, I was able to rescue the voice coil undamaged on this unit so I am hopeful that I can restore it to full working order using a more suitable adhesive - possibly Araldite or a polyurethane type. I suspect that I will also have to perform a similar operation on the remaining drivers since they were all from the same batch.

I would never have suspected that Scan Speak would use anything but proven techniques and top grade materials to construct their speakers since they are relatively expensive. I think the current 18W/8542-10 sells for something like AUD319 each plus freight.

Has anybody experienced a similar failure with Scan Speak or other supposedly reputable speakers?
 
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Cyanoacrylate glue can be susceptible to hygroscopics- absorption of moisture, which can degrade it, and its bond with a surface.

I've not seen that with Scan-Speak drivers- but I regularly see that with other high-end drivers, such as RCF B&C and other pro drivers.

It's especially a problem, when the glue application is sparse- this allows more surface area for the glue to absorb moisture.

I tend to use an epoxy resin to repair these magnet assemblies. Not something super rigid like JB Weld or such- but like a 5 minute epoxy, which seems to stay a bit more "plastic-y" (slightly flexible and pliable) than other types. I also cover the ENTIRE mating surface between magnet and plate, so that there's no voids for humidity to get inside the glue joint. I can't recall a repeat problem with that procedure- and I've got woofers out there that were repaired over 20 years ago, without further reported issues with the glue joint.

Regards,
Gordon.
 
Cyanoacrylate glue can be susceptible to hygroscopics- absorption of moisture, which can degrade it, and its bond with a surface.

I've not seen that with Scan-Speak drivers- but I regularly see that with other high-end drivers, such as RCF B&C and other pro drivers.

It's especially a problem, when the glue application is sparse- this allows more surface area for the glue to absorb moisture.

I tend to use an epoxy resin to repair these magnet assemblies. Not something super rigid like JB Weld or such- but like a 5 minute epoxy, which seems to stay a bit more "plastic-y" (slightly flexible and pliable) than other types. I also cover the ENTIRE mating surface between magnet and plate, so that there's no voids for humidity to get inside the glue joint. I can't recall a repeat problem with that procedure- and I've got woofers out there that were repaired over 20 years ago, without further reported issues with the glue joint.

Regards,
Gordon.

Thanks Gordon,

I think you have answered my question - although you haven't seen the problem with Scan Speak. I doubt that I would have been the only one to purchase Scan Speak drivers with this problem though.

The adhesive was definitely applied extremely sparsely and if, as I suspect, it was cyanoacrylate, then hygroscopic degradation would definitely have occurred due to large areas between the magnet and plates for moisture ingress. I think a 5 min epoxy is the best bet and I hope I can get the magnet and plates in the correct position before it goes off. I think I will lift the spider and remove the voice coil completely, then glue the pole piece plate using appropriate spacers to set an even air gap all round and then clamp the magnet and plates together. Fitting the cone and voice coil will be quite easy then without the chance of damage occurring.

Ross
 
That's the way to do it- shim it tightly. I layer full-round shims all the way around the pole piece, so that the top plate just barely will slide over them. Then, glue one side (usually the magnet), then slip the two parts together onto the shims.

Be careful, however, to not shim them TOO tight. I've had cases where I almost couldn't get the shims out afterward. You do need to leave a few thousandths of an inch leeway, at least.

Regards,
Gordon.
 
I did a bit of research on how others had done it previously. Some go to the trouble of making a tubular jig to clamp to the magnet with multiple screws around the periphery to push the rear pole piece plate into its final position. That seems to be the hard way to do it imo and your method I think is the best. Either way you still need to use shims to get an even air gap all round. I was thinking I might use two semi-circular shims so they would be easier to extract - I will see if it works out.

Thanks for your advice Gordon.

Regards
Ross
 
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