Searching for Thorens TD 147 Power Supply.

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og: Seems expensive. I'd think you should still be able to get a Stancor STA-4116 for less.

Greetings from Munich!

Manfred / lini

P.S.: Seems like they're now phasing out those simple AC/AC wall warts over in the US, too - just like it already happened over here. So for the Thorens fans in the US it would seem wise to consider a spare power supply now, before the priceworthy models are all sold out (as the Triad WAU16-400 already appears to be...).
 
It will run fine on a little less than 16 volts, and polarity doesn't matter, so a lot of older power supplies can be pressed into service. Try a thrift store.

Long ago I used to run a TD160 on 9 V AC, if memory serves. It would still spin up on its own, just took a little longer. Once it's spinning, lower voltage actually means lower motor vibrations. Some more advanced power supplies (e.g. Linn Axis) intentionally ramp down the voltage after start-up.
 
og: You've measured directly at the output with a modern multimeter and no additional load, I'd assume, right? Then it's perfectly normal for a conventional AC/AC or conventional, unregulated AC/DC wall-wart to show a higher output voltage, 'cause the multimeter input is very high resistance - and hence there's hardly any current demand to the power supply, so that you get to see the idle voltage only.

That's why in some cases one also has to be careful with overdimensioned conventional AC/AC and unregulated AC/DC power supplies, 'cause while the units with higher current capability tend to show a somewhat lower idle voltage in relation to the nominal output voltage (which usually is the output voltage you get in combination with the nominal current capability), that somewhat reduced idle voltage won't break down as fast. So, if you replace for example an 18 V/150 mA model with a 1000 mA model with selectable output voltage, it can be a good idea to set that to just 15 V.

Greetings from Munich!

Manfred / lini
 
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