Sherwood s-7100a Won't Click On After Deox

Manny F said:
Thank you Mech ! I'm having trouble finding a 5a DPST, by any chance would a 15a be safe to use ? There's a few spots with plenty of room to install, looks to be a .46" mounting hole. I saw some nice mini switches but they were DPDT ? I also saw some nice looking rocker switches that were 5a, but I don't have any square shape drill bits to mount one.

http://www.amazon.com/Handle-Screw-...5923528&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=toggle+"dpst"
Click to expand...

Yes, you can always go up in current capacity. I'd prefer a rocker switch, the toggle looks rather pedestrian to me.

Here's a nice DPDT (no center off so you can wire the power to the center, then choose which side is one), see comment review about how it handled a big Adcom Amp:

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=060-310

A rectangular rocker is easy to install, just drill a hole to width, and then file into rectangle. You're going to protect the area anyway to catch drill tailings or filings.

A SPST will also work, just that the DPDT or DPST have an extra set of contacts which can also take the load and are handy if and when the original contacts wear out. Search on Parts Express for some round lighted rockers too.

The lighted rockers are also nice and they show on when on.
 
Thanks again Mech, i really do like the lighted rockers. Now that I think of it, I do have one of those Rockwell "sonicrafter" tools, I think I can fashion a proper square mounting hole. Will post results when done.

Steve

mech986 said:
Yes, you can always go up in current capacity. I'd prefer a rocker switch, the toggle looks rather pedestrian to me.

Here's a nice DPDT (no center off so you can wire the power to the center, then choose which side is one), see comment review about how it handled a big Adcom Amp:

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=060-310

A rectangular rocker is easy to install, just drill a hole to width, and then file into rectangle. You're going to protect the area anyway to catch drill tailings or filings.

A SPST will also work, just that the DPDT or DPST have an extra set of contacts which can also take the load and are handy if and when the original contacts wear out. Search on Parts Express for some round lighted rockers too.

The lighted rockers are also nice and they show on when on.
Click to expand...
 
Okeedokee....

The jumped leads worked and just got the rocker switch in the mail.

Used my sonicrafter and cut a perfect rectangle for the switch, and installed it.

I guess I should have used some forethought and realized that the crazy vibration from the tool might destroy the receiver, it's now toast. :D

images
 
Won't power up now, I checked the fuse and that wasn't it. Powered up fine with the leads jumped, but after cutting the hole it's dead. The Sonicrafter is a sonic vibration too, I guess it was too much for the Sherwood to handle. Not a valuable enough receiver for me to put any more time or $ into.
 
Manny said:
Won't power up now, I checked the fuse and that wasn't it. Powered up fine with the leads jumped, but after cutting the hole it's dead. The Sonicrafter is a sonic vibration too, I guess it was too much for the Sherwood to handle. Not a valuable enough receiver for me to put any more time or $ into.
Click to expand...

Please, don't give up on it.

Remove the wiring from new switch and rejumper the original switch leads. If it now turns on, then your wiring to the new switch wasn't quite right, and that's the only problem. Show us a pic or a link to the switch and we can walk you through how the switch should be wired up. It is sometimes confusing.
 
Hi Mech, I tried re-jumping the leads but it won't power on anymore. I think the vibration from the Sonicrafter must have broken some solder joints or caused some other issue, I just don't want to put any more time into it.
 
Hi Manny,

Sorry the unit isn't functional now, but I do hear you on cutting your losses time wise. Maybe offer it on Barter Town for local pickup as a project, maybe someone can take it off your hands.

Better luck next time.
 
Just caught this thread and I'm in the same boat as far as wanting to "jump" to get power, can anybody post (or repost) any pictures on how this is done? Thanks, and greatly appreciated!
 
You'll see two pots and the third rear with the two leads off the back is the switch. Jump those two leads to see if your volume is still working. You'll have to splice those 2 wires to a switch or solder a piece of wire across the two leads and you use a power strip or some type of on/off switch in a box you can plug the ac plug into.
 
I have a problem with no volume, although the unit does power on. No sound, not even static. I have a donor unit with a good switch. But I can't figure out how to get the old one out. I removed the knob thinking there'd be a nut to release it but no. Do I have to take the face off to get at it?
 
If you' have a new switch to install.. probably used but does it work? did you test it?

Anyway.. There are no schematics of how to take these apart. I recommend very good screw drivers with smaller tips. you must fit a proper screw driver or you may strip a head off. I suggest taking pictures, making notes. There is no guarantee what you will encounter. About a 10 in my pita column. I have no other solutions except that your soldering skills should be better than average with good equipment... radshack won't do it.
 
Thanks, Binkman. I have a working switch from another receiver that works but has sound problems. The new one is much cleaner so I think it's worth switching the control. I will certainly take pics. I'm pretty good with a soldering iron. And I love these old Sherwoods so I will take pains to do it right.
 
UPDATE: I successfully installed the working volume control from my donor unit and although it turns on the new receiver properly I am still getting zero sound. At this point I will store both units until I have time to deal with it, or somehow come up with the money to hire a tech. Neither of which is likely to happen any time soon.
 
Easy fix for my silent s-7100a

VERY HAPPY UPDATE: I decided to take another shot at fixing my beloved S-7100A with my very meager skills. I looked over all the components for obvious damage and saw none. I did note that many of the solder connections looked dark dull gray, so I figured maybe it was a cold solder connection which are often suggested here. I heated up my soldering iron and went over every dark connection I could find. I didn't remove the old solder, I just touched the tip of the iron to the connecting posts for about fifteen seconds each--or until I could see a bit of flux bubbling from beneath the old solder.

It might be a half-assed way to do it but afterwards when I plugged in my speakers I had loud clear undistorted sound--resurrected from absolute silence.
 
Even better, I discovered that neither of the switches were bad and I fixed the other one by the same technique, plus a little more deoxing (with plastic safe spray). So now I have two of them working.
 
Good job... to re-solder or 'puddle' the joints was right on! That takes some experience.

(I have a vintage sherwood unit, too...I share your enthusiasm :thmbsp:

(if anyone wants to look back or search this last spring to now there has been many posts about Sherwood receivers.
 
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