Solder, what do you use and do you think it effects what comes out of the speaker?

saabracer23

saabracer23

Super Member
Just curious what most folks on the forum use for solder. Are you the “I buy what’s cheap, I’d go to radio shack if they were still around” kind of person or “only the absolute best” kind?

I’ve used many different kinds of solder including Radio Shack’s. After my first year or two of soldering I was sworn off of 60/40 blends. I’ve tried Wonder solder, I like the smell of that one probably the most lol. I’ve tried Kester 44, which is an all around decent solder at a decent price.

For now my go to solder is Cardas Quad silver bearing solder. It’s absolutely amazing to work with which is the most important thing to me and at around $100 usd or so per pound it’s not too back on the wallet either. That’s been my go to for the last few years now and I make sure to always have a couple pounds on hand. So as soon as one roll runs out I order a new one to replace it and start using the spare roll I have on hand.

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I’ve been getting an itch to try a new solder though. Only thing I’m not thrilled about is that it’s a lead free solder, oh and the cost. I’m curious if anyone has tried using it. It’s Mundorf Supreme

http://www.mundorf.com/english 1.1/Broschuere Einzelseiten/MSolder Loetzinn.pdf

At 9.5% it has by far the highest content of silver. Also 0.1% gold lol. At around $400 usd for a pound it’s also the most expensive that I’ve seen.

Without starting a heated debate, I’m just curious if there is anyone out there who believes the solder you use to complete your joints make any effect on the final sound. As long as you have a good mechanical connection I don’t see why it would, but I could be completely wrong. Exactly why the Mundorf solder has me curious.

Dan
 
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Pretty sure my joints would work poorly without solder. Beyond that, it's 60/40 (or 63/37) Kester 44 for most things. Sometimes I use SN62 for the slight silver content when soldering old Tek scopes or with very fine wire, where it prevents reducing the diameter of the copper by dissolving it in the solder. If you want to help your solder joints, clean the leads and use a bit of extra flux. Another solder I like is Multicore SAVBIT, though I don't have long term experience with it. Seems to flow well. Has a bit of copper in it. For mechanical repairs, Harris Bridgit is very strong, with a bit of nickel content and lead free. It's common in plumbing, but useful for all manner of things. I fixed a cracked planimeter rail with it.
 
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ConradH said:
Pretty sure my joints would work poorly without solder. Beyond that, it's 60/40 (or 63/37) Kester 44 for most things. Sometimes I use SN62 for the slight silver content when soldering old Tek scopes or with very fine wire, where it prevents reducing the diameter of the copper by dissolving it in the solder. If you want to help your solder joints, clean the leads and use a bit of extra flux. Another solder I like is Multicore SAVBIT, though I don't have long term experience with it. Seems to flow well. Has a bit of copper in it. For mechanical repairs, Harris Bridgit is very strong, with a bit of nickel content and lead free. It's common in plumbing, but useful for all manner of things. I fixed a cracked planimeter rail with it.
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Oh yes, all joints a better off with some kind of solder. I totally forgot to mention multicore. It seems to be popular and one I’ve been wanting to try.

merlynski said:
Kester 63/37 rosin flux, plus some liquid flux sometimes, especially on solder wick.
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Good choice. Oh yes, you both mentioned it, but flux is a must. I keep a bottle of flux in a bottle withe a needle point dropper. It comes in quite handy, especially for components that have a bit of tarnish on their leads!

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Dan
 
Hajidub said:
Dan, where'd you buy that flux?
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Avionic nailed it. I got the dispenser and blunt needle tip from amazon. The flux I picked up from my local electronics store. I used to apply it with q-tips, but then realized the dispenser would be a much better option.

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Rockyhill said:
I was weaned 63/37 rosin core solder. Don’t use it much so I still have a bunch.
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Meaning? You still solder, but not 63/37? I see Avionic doesn’t use 63/37 either. I thought it was preferred for its shorter amount of time to a solid state.

I’ve seen several folks here say they’re big fans of the Cardas quad solder, but I would guess that most believe the inexpensive stuff is just as good (I’d consider Kester inexpensive) and those same folks would likely think the Mundorf at $400 a pound is a joke lol. Likely snake oil? I’m still curious, but don’t want to waste my money.

Dan
 
Kester 60/40 only here with few exceptions like my old TEK scopes.
I clean tarnished leads prior to soldering and need only minimal flux to achieve flow and good intermolecular bond.
 
saabracer23 said:
Avionic nailed it. I got the dispenser and blunt needle tip from amazon. The flux I picked up from my local electronics store. I used to apply it with q-tips, but then realized the dispenser would be a much better option.

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Meaning? You still solder, but not 63/37? I see Avionic doesn’t use 63/37 either. I thought it was preferred for its shorter amount of time to a solid state.

I’ve seen several folks here say they’re big fans of the Cardas quad solder, but I would guess that most believe the inexpensive stuff is just as good (I’d consider Kester inexpensive) and those same folks would likely think the Mundorf at $400 a pound is a joke lol. Likely snake oil? I’m still curious, but don’t want to waste my money.

Dan
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I acquired a very large quantity. Around 18 lbs of various dia. Kester"44"...
 
I don't care as long as it is easy to use and the eutectic solders are easier to use. That is the 63/37. The silver solder at 62/36/2 is also easy to use.

But I have some 60/40 also. Key is the sizes. Need to use a solder that is the right size or close. I don't like running a couple inches of solder into the connection, takes too long, so use a bigger solder. I have .015-.020-.030-.050 and .062, good for large lugs and such.
 
saabracer23 said:
Meaning? You still solder, but not 63/37? I see Avionic doesn’t use 63/37 either. I thought it was preferred for its shorter amount of time to a solid state.

Dan
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I rarely solder. My electronics teacher in high school encouraged us to use eutectic solder. He also encouraged us to become a ”lineman with Ma Bell”. This was in the early 70’s.
 
Its a mix of 60/40 and 63/37 here. On the bench now is Kester 44 .062 and Ersin Multicore .031. In reserve I have some K44 in a couple sizes and an Alpha .015. I buy it whenever I find it cheap at flea markets and such. For many years I bought Radio Shack because they had the best prices on it.
 
I'll say the opposite. There is a difference in what comes out of the speakers but we can't measure it or hear it. Maybe in the future we will have better means of detecting the differences but I don't think I'll be around when that happens.
 
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