Steel or MDF platter

Neither would be my first choice. If I intended to use it with an LOMC cartridge the MDF would be my only choice. However, for MM or similar, steel is stiffer, usually heavier and presents more options for damping.
 
Neither would be my first choice. If I intended to use it with an LOMC cartridge the MDF would be my only choice. However, for MM or similar, steel is stiffer, usually heavier and presents more options for damping.
Steel platters have no damping whatsoever. MDF is DOA.
 
When the zombie apocalypse strikes a steel platter could be transformed Into a weapon more easily than MDF. But on the other hand a MDF platter can be used as fire wood, which can be useful in a survival situation.
 
I have a Project turntable with a steel platter. It's quite heavy and overall the speed is well regulated. Trouble is that it rang like a bell. So with a little help from a university friend we made some formers and filled the platter with a liquid rubber compound (allowing clearance to the belt drive and spindle etc). Then it was dynamically balanced. The difference is amazing. This thing in now basically acoustically dead with just a little increase in weight. Platter timing and stability is excellent. We also modified the bearing so that it rides on the oil better.
 
Steel platters have no damping whatsoever. MDF is DOA.
I didn't say steel plattera were damped, just that they could be, several different ways. Take @Powertech's approach above for example, also used by Zu Audio on the Technics 1200 platter; or the peripheral wave trap on the Oracle Delphi in my avatar, or the SDS Isoplatmat I currently have bonded to the Sol platter. They're not steel, but metal rings, yet can be effectively damped into inertia.

MDF is internally damped by the wood fibres, but not completely (all wood has resonance), yet there's little one can do to improve it.
 
Some but not all grades of Stainless Steel are non magnetic. Reglar ol mild steel would be a poor choice with LOMC carts.

MDF has its place in this world , in the dumpster. It's only attribute is that it is 1/3 of the price of Baltic Birch.
 
Dring my journey down the Rega upgrade "rabbit hole" I tried a variety of platter and mat combinations. They all changed the sound a little but until I tried an acrylic one piece platter/mat I would not say it really improved on the supplied MDF - Felt as supplied. Glass was a real disappointment, even with a damping ring.

It was fun trying them all though.
 
Dring my journey down the Rega upgrade "rabbit hole" I tried a variety of platter and mat combinations. They all changed the sound a little but until I tried an acrylic one piece platter/mat I would not say it really improved on the supplied MDF - Felt as supplied. Glass was a real disappointment, even with a damping ring.

It was fun trying them all though.
I agree glass is disappointing and steel is worse. I'm happy with one piece acrylic for now and love having no. mat.
 
Firstly, the comparison between MDF and steel would depend on the thickness.

MDF is popular for turntables and speakers because it is cheap and easy to manufacture. But it's not good acoustically. If it was a very thick piece of MDF (1") it might be very rigid and have some mass.

I wouldn't want thin steel for a plinth. However, if it was a thick piece it might be OK (it's what I've had on a Commonewealth vintage idler, as per manufacturer's recommendations, and was OK). Steel might be improved with some Dynamat or similar dampening material, however, too much can suck the life out of a tt. Experimentation is the key to tweaking it with Dynamat - the balance between too little and too much.

If you have thin steel or thin MDF I would throw them out and make something from thick hardwood ply. Do it properly and let your turntable sing.
 
Neither. You want a platter that won't compromise Moving coil cartridges with very strong magnets. Aluminum. or some sort of composite. Pure stainless steel will work, too.
 
I agree totally with the posts following mine. I have to say that I use a MM cartridge - I'm not financially up to esoteric hifi levels. The steel platter that I have on the ProJect is quite heavy and very rigid. Not flimsy in any way. I think that mass helps it act as a flywheel to even out any speed fluctuations from the motor and belt (it has the belt and pulley upgrade from the original as well). My next move is probably to mechanically isolate the motor and the arm from the main turntable plinth and to upgrade the connection between the plinth and the unit it's standing on (maybe hang it from a rubber suspension system)..
My main interest with hifi in general is to take equipment which is pretty good already and then carefully and thoughtfully improve it or at least allow it to perform at it's best. All by researching best engineering principles.
I'm just interested in how things work.

I'm not an extreme purist or anything like that and i believe that however simple or complex a system ends up, the main principle is to try to do justice to the skill and effort put in by the artists and recording engineers to get the sound that they wanted.
 
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