Subwoofer: Buy or build?

The only problem with pro amps are the sometimes noisy fans, otherwise they are great.

And in the event of a fan being too noisy it is very simple item to replace it with a quieter model. Tons of em out there that can be a drop in for stock fan.
 
Here's a plot of another option, the Reference Dayton 12" HO. Small box but ported.
 

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IMHO, best bang per buck is a proven Behringer ep2500. Get a quieter fan and you're ready to go. All my subs are passive and the ep2500 has been a soldier. :thmbsp:
 
IMHO, best bang per buck is a proven Behringer ep2500. Get a quieter fan and you're ready to go. All my subs are passive and the ep2500 has been a soldier. :thmbsp:

I would also have suggested this as a high value option but usually get alot of negative response with Behringer for some reason. Fine bass amps.
 
And in the event of a fan being too noisy it is very simple item to replace it with a quieter model. Tons of em out there that can be a drop in for stock fan.
I'd like to avoid a fan if at all possible. My listening room can get down to 26 dbs. I know you can get sub-25db fans, but for now, I'll look elsewhere.

Brett do you already have any beefy amps gathering dust?

I have a Rolls PA amp in the barn, which I thought was low-power. Turns out it's 200w bridged into 8 ohms which isn't totally out of the question.

RA2100b Professional Power Amp

100 Watts RMS per output (4 Ohm).
85 Watts RMS per output (8 Ohm).
200 Watts RMS into 70 Volt (8 Ohm).
1/4" and RCA inputs.
Fault Protected Output Stage.

Specifications

Power Output, Stereo: 100 Watts RMS/ch. 4 Ohms, 85 Watts RMS/ch. 8 Ohms
Bridged: 200 Watts into 70 Volt or 8 Ohms
Minimum Load Impedance: 4 Ohms (8 Ohms bridged)
Sensitivity: <1 VRMS for full output
THD: <.05% (500 Hz @ 1 Watt)
IMD: <.05%
S/N Ratio: >95 dB A Weighted
Power Bandwidth: 70 - 30 kHz +/- 3 dB
Damping Factor: >150
Slew Rate: 100 V/microSecond
Phase Shift: <10 Deg., 20 Hz - 20 kHz
Input Impedance: 10 K Ohms balanced
I've also got a pile of other PA gear FWIW; a paramatric EQ, a mic mixer, gain manager and feedback killer.
 

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I have a Rolls PA amp in the barn, which I thought was low-power. Turns out it's 200w bridged into 8 ohms which isn't totally out of the question.
It probably won't like running two subs bridged so I suppose 100W/sub might be a little wimpy, but you could try it, especially if the drivers you choose aren't too low sensitivity. I was just going to say (as ray already kinda suggested) that you could buy a stand-alone DSP crossover to use with an amp you already have as yet another option similar to the pro amps with built-in DSP suggested above.
 
Ok.....

Here's where I am in my planning now.

Two usedLambda SB12 raw drivers for which I will build two separate boxes 16"x16"x20 each = 2.25 cubic feet.

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This is how they graph. Pretty good, eyh? You can see they chart identically to the woven glass 2 ohm DVC Daytons I was looking at earlier. But the Lambda's are 8 ohm.

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I'm thinking I could drive them both with a 500 watt (into 4 ohms) Yung SD500 500W Class D Subwoofer Amp
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=301-512

B/C if I run the two subs in parallel, the amp would be seeing a 4ohm load, yes? Would 500 watts into 4 ohms driving two subs work ok for the type of listening I do? (I'm just trying to learn this stuff as I go)




The Lambda SB12 driver is designed for sealed enclosure. It has a high xmax, stiff poly cone with stiff poly dustcap, coated and sealed foam surround, 12 spoke aluminium basket, dual stack 120oz magnet, gold binding post, military spec coatings and glues. It is a high excursion, very low distortion, super tight bass driver. Recommended maximum crossover point is 500Hz, rated power handling is 500W. 2.83VSPL = 88.6dB

Specs
Size: 12"
Motor : PL (overhung)
Magnet : 3.4Kg Ceramic 5
VC diameter : 51mm
VC Former: Black Anodized Aluminum
VC Wire: 2 Layer Copper Roundwire
Basket : Cast Aluminum 12 Spoke
Cone : Mineral Filled Hard Poly
Surround : Doped Foam, 2 layer treatment
Dustcap : Hard Poly
Spider : Hard stiffness Nomex
Faraday : Copper
Terminals: Gold Plated Binding Posts
Weight : 10 Kgs
Fs : 20.9 Hz
Qms : 4.23
Qes : 0.64
Qts : 0.56
Vas : 160 Liters
Cms : 0.4 mm/N
Mms : 145 grams
Sd : 531 cm2
Rms : 4.5 Kg/S
Pe (nom) : 300 Watts
Pe (max) : 500 Watts
Pe (transient) : 1000 Watts
Air Gap : 14 mm
VC Length : 38 mm
Linear Xmax : 14 mm (peak)
Mech Xmax : 20 mm (peak)
 

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I have not used that measurment software but the FR chart's legend shows that to be the Dayton driver because the line is green. Just an observation that stuck out to me.

Your box looks good and should be an easy build for you.:thmbsp:
 
I have not used that measurment software but the FR chart's legend shows that to be the Dayton driver because the line is green. Just an observation that stuck out to me.
The red line is there...sort of.
If I adjust the box volume just a little so that the Lambda's curve changes slightly, I see that the red line is actually tucked behind the green line; they plot exactly the same!


So I have a pair of these on the way:
They are Lambda LE-SBP12-8 They were hand built in Florida by Nick McKinney back around 2000-01 or so. They do require a rather large box, even sealed. But I'm going for it!

Now, can someone tell me if I can drive them with one plate amp that's rated for 500 watts down to 4 ohms? Like the Yung SD500 500W Class D Subwoofer Amp at PE?

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Now, can someone tell me if I can drive them with one plate amp that's rated for 500 watts down to 4 ohms?
That's probably enough to get you to xmax. Boxes seem a little small even for heavily stuffed... what is your software giving you for Qtc?
 
WinISD came up with this:
9.5 cubic feet
0.71 Qtc

When I changed the box volume to 2.5 cubic feet, to gives me 1.01 Qtc

Is that bump going to cause me problems? (you can probably tell, I'm kinda' treading water here; close to going in over my head)


Here's how it graphs in WinISD in a 2.5 cubic foot sealed box:

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.
 

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1 dB hump is nothing to worry about, but a heavily stuffed box will drop the Q a bit and that will go away anyway. In WinISD (pro), you can click "advanced" under the "box" tab and change Qa to 5 - that'll be closer to what you'll get. I think your other software was already doing that for you. The optimal box is probably more like 4 ft³, and maybe really not significantly different in practice. I'm not gonna pretend like I know. The ~2dB at 30Hz difference would probably be more noticeable than any of the more murky theoretical differences. I would definitely not go any smaller than what you've got there, though, so at least bump it up to subtract the volume of the driver and any bracing, etc.
 
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