Tandberg TCD 310MkII Won't Play

[shacky]

That 310 SM very helpful. Took the head plate and flywheel cover off. Sure enough the grease on those ball bearings stiffened. I figured I might as well replace belt if I can. Have a spare from a universal kit. Looks pretty close. It's the smaller one on the right. Think this is close enough? Or is it better not to guess?

And what should I use for new grease? Thanks for all your help :yes:

 

[elgato8905]

Isn't great how Tandbergs are made. The ones that I've taken apart and put back together have given me a real respect for how well they're engineered. Just wait until you get it fixed and hear what it sounds like. I'll bet you any amount of money that that deck isn't going anywhere. I'm personally not interested in having any other kind of deck. Congrats on the score.

 

[jdurbin1]

That was my listing... I had a 310 MkII NOS solenoid as well but someone bought it a few months ago.

The difference is in the harness, the 310 MkII solenoid has totally different plug arrangement. Check the pics...

John

Saw a 310 selenoid on eBay for $14.99. Pulled trigger before realizing 310 Mk II has different part number. I think the one on eBay was 994105 and part in tripod's parts listing is 994184. I wonder if there is really much difference.

I was buying this as a just in case scenario.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=110310842865]

 

[jdurbin1]

I would avoid using an under-length belt if possible. Puts additional load on the capstan and motor bushings, which isn't healthy. You should be able get the right belt from marscommunication on the bay. Frankly I'd clean & reuse what was there unless there's evidence of slippage or if it's hardened and taken on an out of round shape.

John

That 310 SM very helpful. Took the head plate and flywheel cover off. Sure enough the grease on those ball bearings stiffened. I figured I might as well replace belt if I can. Have a spare from a universal kit. Looks pretty close. It's the smaller one on the right. Think this is close enough? Or is it better not to guess?

And what should I use for new grease? Thanks for all your help :yes:

 

[shacky]

I would avoid using an under-length belt if possible. Puts additional load on the capstan and motor bushings, which isn't healthy. You should be able get the right belt from marscommunication on the bay. Frankly I'd clean & reuse what was there unless there's evidence of slippage or if it's hardened and taken on an out of round shape.

John

John,

I'll do that. Should I use Rubber Rejuvenator/Cleaner?

Jim

 

[jdurbin1]

I'm no expert on specific formulations for cleaning rubber parts... I typically use isopropyl alcohol myself but there are probably other people here with more experience in that sort of thing.

John

John,

I'll do that. Should I use Rubber Rejuvenator/Cleaner?

Jim

 

[SaSi]

I have found that rubber rejuvenators work well for pinch rollers and idlers but not for belts. I've read sometime here (I think) about boiling the belts mildly to rejuvenate /shrink them. Perhaps you should search for that.

The wrong kind of belt (and that includes elasticity apart from dimensions) could give you increased flutter.

 

[Tripod]

Hi

I've read about boiling of tt idler wheels and belts but haven't tried it as it sounds a bit radical. I have used Servisol Video 40 Tape Head and Disk Drive Cleaner for over 15 years on rubber parts to clean them. Obviously, the stuff will not shrink belts but it sure makes belts look and feel like new.

Regarding grease, I would use a bit of Super Lube in critical sliding, contact areas - as little as possible. It's a du Pont/Synco Chemical Corp product and contains teflon according to the blurb on the tube.

tripod

tripod

 

[Tripod]

Tandberg TCD310 MK11...

The input rca sockets are flush mounted, which makes matters a bit awkward if thick interconnects are used. I found these goldplated connectors a while back and they allow for much more secure fitting of cables to the deck.

tripod

 

[shacky]

The input rca sockets are flush mounted, which makes matters a bit awkward if thick interconnects are used. I found these goldplated connectors a while back and they allow for much more secure fitting of cables to the deck.

tripod

That's a great idea tripod. Where'd you get 'em?

 

[Tripod]

Hiya Shacky

Great pics you posted, btw. The connectors come from a local suburb of Cape Town store selling a lot of disco equipment and anything else from watch batteries to halogen bulbs and speaker terminals. A friendly 'mom and pop' type store where good quality things are cheaper by a third and no staff hiding in the restrooms. The connectors cost ZAR20 each (just under US$3.-) and worth the money, I think. You'd probably get them from RS or similar electronic goods stores.

tripod

 

[shacky]

Well I almost got things back together. That stupid little mother hucking C-Clip :tears: Flew off somewhere inside. Now have to go try and find a suitable replacement. AARRGGHH :tears:

 

[jdurbin1]

That's why they call them Jesus clips... you know, "Jesus C@#%t! WTH did that stinking clip go?!"

Which one was it? I may have extras laying around...

John

Well I almost got things back together. That stupid little mother hucking C-Clip :tears: Flew off somewhere inside. Now have to go try and find a suitable replacement. AARRGGHH :tears:

 

[shacky]

The one that holds the cassette holder in. Attaches to the release mechanism. Hate to leave it in unit but I don't want to disassemble whole thing for a Jesus clip

 

[Tripod]

Tandberg...

Tip the deck over, shacky. This happened many times here. The things will always fall out again. You have to tilt it at a couple of angles. Failing that, try grabbing it by the throat and hiss: "EMIT!!!"

tripod

 

[shacky]

Got the E Clip. 1/8 " works. Put it back togehter. Now I have 2 problems.

Still won't Play - tries to engage then releases.

And now the right reel makes a racket :tears: How much you want to bet it's that stupid little e-clip I lost :scratch2: And looks like you have to open rear of unit to get at the reel motor/assembly.

Is it tough to take off rear panel?

 

[jdurbin1]

Yes. Normal access is from the top, and if you need more access to work on the mechanism, you unplug it and slide it out of the right-hand side. The end panels come off relatively easily.

I wouldn't think a clip that size could cause a bunch of noise unless it got inside a spool motor.

John

 

[Tripod]

Have you tried tilting it at different angles? This always works. You need to pick it up with both hands and may also hear the clip fall around inside. I did also take the back panel off while I was trying to troubleshoot the latching prob. I had but I don't think you need to do that unless the clip got attracted to something magnetic inside.

tripod

 

[shacky]

Yes I tilted it at all possible angles. Thought I heard something at first then nothing. I may try taking off back for a quick look see.

 

[shacky]

Well I took the back off - still can't find the E clip. Shook the heck out of unit to find it - no luck. See that there's no way a clip could interfere with reel motor - it's sealed. Put tape in to see if I could see what's making noise - and viola! Working she is Padaman!

The deck must have gotten scared as to what I might do to it if I'm going as far as taking back off.

Seriously I noticed the locking/pause mechanism might have been a little out of kilter. Played with it and it's fine now.

So - I'll button her up and have my way with her tonight :smlove: