Teac A-2300A reel to reel find and advice

Sorry for long hiatus, holidays and stuff and forgetting I posted here :P

DKirk said:
You have an A-2300S. I have the later A-2300SX. There is also an SD with Dolby and an auto reverse SR. They're all wonderful machines that were built to last.

The sticky pinch roller is a common problem with these TEACs. A greased shaft runs through a tube and the grease has turned to glue over the years. The solution is to clean off the old grease and replace it with fresh grease. I use mineral spirits (paint thinner) to clean it and apply white lithium grease. I've done four of them, but it's been too long for me to tell you from memory how to get to the shaft. I do remember removing the flywheel and moving a brake solenoid. I always replace the belts while I'm in there.

Check your pinch roller carefully before replacing it. I've never found it necessary to replace one.

I also have a 3300SR, a 3300SX2T and a 4070G. Obviously, Ilike TEACs,
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Thank, I was going to use sewing machine oil I got but it seemed a bit too fluid so I'll look for some lithium grease when I can get to the hardware store. The pinch roller is in not as good condition as I thought but still pretty good condition, tape track looks good on it at least.

Bohuweno said:
DKirk's advice is good. You can probably get by with the pinch roller you've got, but you may as well dump the old belt and put in a new one when you get around to doing the lubrication. Even with postage they're not prohibitively expensive. You have to take the old belt off anyway, just to get the flywheel out of the deck, and those belts need periodic replacement.

You say you have a sticky pinch roller. While your deck's working, maybe you can just enjoy getting music out of it for a while, that's certainly what I did. But sooner or later, that sticky roller is going to give you problems in playback and recording. Very likely the first thing you'll notice is trouble in the reverse playback direction, with the tape sliding sideways off the head, and there goes your audio. At that point, you'll have a one-direction deck. That would be a good time to lubricate if you haven't got around to it already.

To be honest though, I'd suggest playing with your new deck for a few weeks, and then doing what needs to be done rather than putting it off for too long. But be aware that doing it for the first time, if you're taking it slowly, following the service manual, posting a question or two - and possibly realizing you need to go out and buy this or that tool - it could well take you more than a weekend, so you'll want to have a way to keep the removed parts safe between the times when you can get back to working on it.
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Unless you count rewind unfortunately this is a one direction tape deck :/ Would make switching sides easier.
I've actually had it for a few years now.....years, dam time goes fast, I looked at it a bit when I got it, then put it on my shelf and didn't use it till recently which sucks as its awesome. Playback is great and even filtered through a line in on my pc and only using tapes that came with it (no blanks to test yet) still sounds sweet. The tape heads have seen better days though, their not damaged as far as I can see and the tape path is clear just a bit of corrosion on the sides I have to take care of.

Thanks to everyone who's been giving advice.
 
I just got an A-2300S, it had the sticky pinch roller mechanism trouble also.
I just took it to bits, the procedure is fairly straightforward. Take the back off. 6 screws on the back side, 3 at the top, 3 at the bottom.

1) Remove two smaller screws holding P clips for wiring off the brace plate.
2) remove the two larger screws holding the brace plate. The brace plate is sided, make a note of it's orientation. Short gap between screw holes on the right (as you look at the back).
3) remove capstan belt
4) note the position of the flywheel in relation to the shaft where the domed section pokes through.
5) undo the 2 Allen grub screws just enough to take the flywheel off. The capstan shaft does have a recess so slacking them off will allow it to slide about but not come off.
6) unplug the green multi plug and move the wires aside for better access, then remove the upper of the two screws holding the micro-switches in place on the safety arm.
7) slack but don't remove the lower micro switch screw and rotate the switches out of the way making sure you don't break their plungers off on the cam. The spring is attached to the red wafer.
8) the arm that attaches to the pinch roller lever and goes to the solenoid comes off, but I found the screws awkward. I used a drill-drive bit with a small ring wrench to turn it. Push on the end with your thumb, brace the arm to keep it at the right angle and twist. You may be able to do it with a stubby screwdriver. I just didn't have one I could exert enough force with (thin handle).
9) remove the two screws on the flywheel bearing holding the H shaped plate on.
10) remove the pinch roller arm, clean, lubricate.

Reassembly is reverse of removal but caution on redoing the micro switches, they are fragile and excess torque will break their cases. They are standard items (not Teac specific) but no point breaking something that's working.
If it doesn't want to go back on, it's likely sitting on top of the tape lifter mechanism arms, which can be out of view behind the circuit board.

I had mine apart and back together in 3 hours, taking care not to lose screws and washers and carefully removing grease smears from surfaces that shouldn't be greased.

The pinch roller now snaps nicely when play is pressed and offers only the resistance of the spring if I push it with a finger.

Phil
 
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PhilA said:
I just got an A-2300S, it had the sticky pinch roller mechanism trouble also.
I just took it to bits, the procedure is fairly straightforward. Take the back off. 6 screws on the back side, 3 at the top, 3 at the bottom.

1) Remove two smaller screws holding P clips for wiring off the brace plate.
2) remove the two larger screws holding the brace plate. The brace plate is sided, make a note of it's orientation. Short gap between screw holes on the right (as you look at the back).
3) remove capstan belt
4) note the position of the flywheel in relation to the shaft where the domed section pokes through.
5) undo the 2 Allen grub screws just enough to take the flywheel off. The capstan shaft does have a recess so slacking them off will allow it to slide about but not come off.
6) unplug the green multi plug and move the wires aside for better access, then remove the upper of the two screws holding the micro-switches in place on the safety arm.
7) slack but don't remove the lower micro switch screw and rotate the switches out of the way making sure you don't break their plungers off on the cam. The spring is attached to the red wafer.
8) the arm that attaches to the pinch roller lever and goes to the solenoid comes off, but I found the screws awkward. I used a drill-drive bit with a small ring wrench to turn it. Push on the end with your thumb, brace the arm to keep it at the right angle and twist. You may be able to do it with a stubby screwdriver. I just didn't have one I could exert enough force with (thin handle).
9) remove the two screws on the flywheel bearing holding the H shaped plate on.
10) remove the pinch roller arm, clean, lubricate.

Reassembly is reverse of removal but caution on redoing the micro switches, they are fragile and excess torque will break their cases. They are standard items (not Teac specific) but no point breaking something that's working.
If it doesn't want to go back on, it's likely sitting on top of the tape lifter mechanism arms, which can be out of view behind the circuit board.

I had mine apart and back together in 3 hours, taking care not to lose screws and washers and carefully removing grease smears from surfaces that shouldn't be greased.

The pinch roller now snaps nicely when play is pressed and offers only the resistance of the spring if I push it with a finger.

Phil
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You know what would of been great, for me to remember to read this before I took my player apart XD I forgot about our post and had a sudden burst of energy and did the full clean and repair, didn't do it as good as I could of but did what I could and now the pinch roller works like a charm :D

When I got to the belt it felt a bit old but was still pretty tight so haven't bothered replacing it yet. Dont think I will until it dies as it still works fine.

It was great fun to pull apart and see how some stuff worked. I did find those strong screws PhilA mentioned, as I spun one a bit with my screw driver I had to use pliers from the sides to get them off.

Tried posting 2 months ago but the site was broken and not letting any new replies be made :/
Also might make a new post just with vintage audio finds as I just got myself a 8 stack of used 7 inch tapes for like $5 :D
 
Quick tip. Recap the power supply. There are three or 4 1000 and 2000mfd caps on the board on the right side when looking from the back into it. I also had a sticky pinch roller and even a complete clean and relube made it only 90%. Recapping the PS did the remaining 10% and since that no issues with it at all. Seems like the spikes in current that th actuator draws is a little bit too much for an old PS and it gets sluggish.
 
darg said:
Quick tip. Recap the power supply. There are three or 4 1000 and 2000mfd caps on the board on the right side when looking from the back into it. I also had a sticky pinch roller and even a complete clean and relube made it only 90%. Recapping the PS did the remaining 10% and since that no issues with it at all. Seems like the spikes in current that th actuator draws is a little bit too much for an old PS and it gets sluggish.
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My power supply currently seems to be working ok and I kinda like the idea of working off of vintage caps so I think I'll just keep them for now. If it ever stops working though I'll know where to look thanks!

corpblues said:
I just cleaned up a Teach A-3300S and found this conversation very helpful, thank you

For reference here is my experience http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/teac-a-3300s-new-to-me.722142/
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You know I actually talked to someone yesterday who had one of those machines, he just gave it away with a bunch of tapes and he said if he knew I liked vintage audio he would of given it to me, missed it by that much dammit!
 
Vintage caps are maybe ok in the audio path BUT they are dangerous in the power supply. This has nothing to do with vintage sound but rather with a good fire in the living room. Get them out, please.
 
darg said:
Vintage caps are maybe ok in the audio path BUT they are dangerous in the power supply. This has nothing to do with vintage sound but rather with a good fire in the living room. Get them out, please.
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Chillax mate, she'll be right.
Cracks aside the way I have it set up it's not plugged in or running if I'm not around and it doesn't show any signs of issue or slowing down yet.
 
Ok so for anyone that's doing this make sure you put the belt on the right spindle. I just now discovered that on the motor there's 2 hubs, one for 50hz and one for 60hz which I didn't realize until I heard one of my reels and it sounded slower. I thought the deck was dying till I found somewhere that someone had the same issue XD
I will say this deck is heavy af and a pain to get out of where I have it.
 
I KNEW IT! I knew I had more tapes, just found my last box of 28 more tapes!

l6X3jPz.jpg
 
Webserfer said:
So I got a hold of this Teac....wait for it....free, yes free, the guy even dropped it off which what i estimated to be 80 tapes guess :D It has the original accessories box, cleaning supplies, few empty reels, tape repair supplies (splicer and reel sticky tape). Best part? It works fantastically, other than a sticky pinch roller it played just fine and looks like it just came out of the store. Even has the screws that would of held on the dam protective cover.

So, questions, yes. What kind of oil would be recommended to oil it with when I eventually do it? would wd-40 be ok for cleaning the old oil off?

Also just signed up for this so hello all on this forum site.


Wow, good for you! I have the same deck and was just playing it this morning! looking for "pre-recorded" reels from the originals artists labels is hard to find! Ebay has them for " ridiculous" prices. I saw a Led Zeppelin tape for like $150.00?
Teac Reel to Reel.JPG

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Xin hãy giúp tôi sửa lỗi tạm dừng của R2R Teac A2300, nó không dừng khi tôi nhấn phím pause mà nó lại chạy nhanh như fast forward
 
There are a lot of amateurs that use sub grade oil and some even use 3 in 1. Get rid of all that junk. The best oil to use in any Teac deck is a Synthetic Car engine oil calls AMSoil and the type is the signature series 0W30. I have used this oil on hundreds of machines and have obtained better than specs or better than other oil performance with it. My first try was a A2000R that was made before your deck. It once oiled well was at .02% wrms wow and flutter at 7.5 IPS. Oiling requires that you take the capstan shaft out the front of the deck and that is after you unscrew the dusts cap. The flywheel come off the shaft with two 2mm lock nuts. When servicing the Pinch roller linkage and ALL old deck should be be serviced as the shaft can come lose and pivot and when the screw gets lose enough there will be no fixed angle the pinch roller arm will maintain. I have worked on more that a 1000 of these and was employed at the Chicago Factory service. I am still operating my own show now from 2010 but have been working on decks for 46 years. Don't mess with the Pinch Roller solenoid- leave it right where it is as the two screws that come out of the fork is the way to go. The movement of the Pinch Roller solenoid requires that you do the Pinch Roller pressure adjustment either a spring scale or I use a digital bike scale. If the thing has not been moved leave it alone. The deck at this stage could also use new power supply electrolytics. Oil the motor down the shaft as the dried foam in the tubes will just delay the oil for several days.
When putting back the flywheel there is a forward to back setting of 3mm that must be there with the thrust plate on. Do not make it tight as that is the first big mistake amateurs make.
If you follow the guy who knows and do the same thing you should get better results than people that guess and follow the wrong crowd. You do not need a demagnetizer item at all unless you apply DC to a play head directly with a meter- that is only done in testing for a bad head. Otherwise I have proof that they make no difference at all and anyone who would ever do the tests I did would find out that there is no concern at all for this- it is snake oil to just sell you another device. I did the tests that disprove the need at my bench at Teac in Arlington Heights. I also had two courses in electromagnetics for the BSEE degree I got in 1985.
The grease I use for the Pinch roller and all other places where grease is needed is Lubriplate 105 and it has never failed me in all these years.It never hardens or dries out.
If you want more direct advice contact me at skywavebe@sbcglobal.net as I do train people all the time as to the correct way to do thiings.
 
[QUOTE = "Jonny Ramone, bài đăng: 14378518, thành viên: 74017"] 2300, hay 2300S? Họ là khác nhau. [/ QUOTE]
Nó là Teac A2300sx.
 
thậm chí sử dụng 3 trong 1. Hãy loại bỏ tất cả những thứ rác rưởi đó. Loại dầu tốt nhất để sử dụng trong bất kỳ boong Teac nào là dầu động cơ Xe hơi Tổng hợp có tên gọi AMSoil và loại dầu đặc trưng là dòng 0W30. Tôi đã sử dụng loại dầu này trên hàng trăm máy và đã thu được hiệu quả tốt hơn so với thông số kỹ thuật hoặc tốt hơn so với các loại dầu khác. Lần thử đầu tiên của tôi là A2000R đã được thực hiện trước bộ bài của bạn. Nó đã từng được bôi dầu tốt ở mức 0,2% wrms và rung ở 7,5 IPS. Việc bôi dầu yêu cầu bạn phải lấy trục nắp ra phía trước của boong và đó là sau khi bạn mở nắp đậy bụi. Bánh đà đi ra khỏi trục với hai đai ốc khóa 2mm. Khi bảo dưỡng mối liên kết của con lăn Chốt và TẤT CẢ boong cũ nên được bảo dưỡng vì trục có thể bị mất và xoay và khi vít bị mất đủ sẽ không có góc cố định mà tay con lăn chốt sẽ duy trì. Tôi đã làm việc hơn 1000 trong số này và được làm việc tại dịch vụ Nhà máy Chicago. Tôi vẫn đang điều hành chương trình biểu diễn của riêng mình từ năm 2010 nhưng đã làm việc trên bộ bài được 46 năm. Đừng làm rối dây điện từ của Con lăn Pinch - hãy để nó ở đúng vị trí của nó vì hai con vít đi ra khỏi phuộc là con đường thực hiện. Sự chuyển động của bộ điện từ Pinch Roller yêu cầu bạn phải thực hiện điều chỉnh áp suất Pinch Roller hoặc cân bằng lò xo hoặc tôi sử dụng cân xe đạp kỹ thuật số. Nếu thứ vẫn chưa được chuyển đi, hãy để nó yên. Boong ở giai đoạn này cũng có thể sử dụng chất điện phân cung cấp điện mới.
Khi đặt bánh đà trở lại, phải có cài đặt từ trước đến sau là 3mm với tấm đẩy. Đừng làm cho nó chặt chẽ vì đó là sai lầm lớn đầu tiên mà tài tử mắc phải.
Nếu bạn làm theo những người biết và làm điều tương tự, bạn sẽ nhận được kết quả tốt hơn những người đoán và làm theo đám đông sai. Bạn hoàn toàn không cần thiết bị khử từ trừ khi bạn áp dụng DC trực tiếp vào đầu đấu bằng đồng hồ đo - điều này chỉ được thực hiện trong quá trình kiểm tra đầu kém. Nếu không, tôi có bằng chứng rằng chúng chẳng có gì khác biệt cả và bất kỳ ai đã từng làm các bài kiểm tra tôi đã làm sẽ phát hiện ra rằng không có gì phải lo lắng về điều này - đó là dầu rắn chỉ bán cho bạn một thiết bị khác. Tôi đã thực hiện các bài kiểm tra để bác bỏ nhu cầu tại băng ghế của tôi tại Teac ở Arlington Heights. Tôi cũng đã có hai khóa học về điện từ học để lấy bằng BSEE năm 1985.
Mỡ mà tôi sử dụng cho con lăn Pinch và tất cả những nơi cần bôi mỡ khác là Lubriplate 105 và nó chưa bao giờ khiến tôi thất vọng trong suốt những năm qua.
Nếu bạn muốn được tư vấn trực tiếp hơn, hãy liên hệ với tôi theo địa chỉ skywavebe@sbcglobal.net vì tôi luôn đào tạo mọi người về cách thực hiện chính xác. [/ QUOTE]
Chào anh! Tôi muốn nhờ anh giúp tôi vơi. Tôi có một Teac a2300sx cũ, mọi chức năng của máy đều hoạt động rất tốt. Nhưng chức năng pause thì bị lỗi, khi nhấn pause thì cuộn băng không dừng lại mà chạy nhanh như fast forward. Anh có thể chỉ giúp tôi sửa lỗi cho nó với. Xin Cám ơn!
 
[QUOTE = "Jonny Ramone, bài đăng: 14378518, thành viên: 74017"] 2300, hay 2300S? Họ là khác nhau. [/ QUOTE]
Vâng! Nó đúng là Teac A2300sx.
Cảm ơn bạn rất nhiều cho trả lời. Tôi đã kiểm tra kỹ lưỡng các búi dây không có mối hàn lỏng lẻo nào. Tôi đã xem xét kỹ hơn bên trong các rơ le vẫn hoạt động. Dùng máy đo VOM đo được 7 điốt, có 4 điốt đo chiều đi kim hiển thị hết thang đo, đo chiều ngược lại kim không tăng chút nào. Có 3 đi-ốt (D9, D10, D12) đo chiều đi kim cũng hiển thị hết thang đo, nhưng khi đo chiều ngược lại kim đồng hồ lại hiển bằng 1/10 thang đo. Mình không biết phích cắm giả ở đâu, bạn có thể chỉ mình với. Ở đây tôi đã thử nhấn phím tạm dừng khi máy đang ở chế độ dừng; trong chế độ trò chơi; ở chế độ ghi băng. Cả 3 chế độ khi tạm dừng đều chạy flash và đặc biệt là nó cũng tắt luôn đèn báo màu đỏ trên phím rec.
 
to clean off the old grease, use Isopropyl alcohol. its a great solvent and won't damage any of the plastic parts.

the old teac grease turns to wax over time.
 
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