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Teac A-6300 tension arm spring
- Thread starter bigfish90
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Jon_Logan
Addicted Member
I remember that being a very thin wire, many turn spring. One end hooked onto a "finger" in that round casting that engages the switches. I think the other end links to a hole in the piece that separates the two switches.
The spring wraps around that cast barrel piece making the tension arm fall to the right (looking from the front), causing the switches to open (where the switch 'nubs' fall into the divot in the barrel).
The spring wraps around that cast barrel piece making the tension arm fall to the right (looking from the front), causing the switches to open (where the switch 'nubs' fall into the divot in the barrel).
SkywaveTDR
Active Member
Hi Bigfish,
If what you are referring to is the aluminum cylinder then that is where it goes.
It is not hard to attach if you use some bent nose tweezers.
Let me know if you come across other difficulties as I service these regularly and have been doing so for about 38 years. I worked for Teac in Chicago.
If what you are referring to is the aluminum cylinder then that is where it goes.
It is not hard to attach if you use some bent nose tweezers.
Let me know if you come across other difficulties as I service these regularly and have been doing so for about 38 years. I worked for Teac in Chicago.
Jon_Logan
Addicted Member
Yeah, common Teac A-xxxx problem. The play linkage is gummed up. You need to remove the capstan thrust bearing, capstan, and the pinch roller arm linkage. If you don't want to undo the play solenoid, you need to remove one screw and loosen the other one on the plate that connects the play solenoid to the pinch roller arm. Once you get that stuff off, you need to clean and lube everything. Grease for the pinch roller arm and light oil for the capstan bearing.
To remove the capstan, unscrew the escutchen around the base of the capstan (viewed from the front). Remove rubber doughnut from capstan shaft. Be careful, tape oxide on the capstan shaft can make removing the capstan difficult, if not damaging.
To remove the capstan, unscrew the escutchen around the base of the capstan (viewed from the front). Remove rubber doughnut from capstan shaft. Be careful, tape oxide on the capstan shaft can make removing the capstan difficult, if not damaging.
SkywaveTDR
Active Member
Hi Bigfish,
Yes, some people think that moving the Pinch Roller linkage is the answer to getting it going. Not in all cases but some I have seen that the linkage moves due to the screw in the front panel mounting the stud of the linkage is rotating when it should be solid. This eventually will result in uneven Pinch Roller alignment. This is what you have to do.
Take the back off the unit, remove the Thrust plate to the rear of the flywheel,
losen the fork on the Pinch roller linkage so that the solenoid plunger can be disengaged from the linkage. Take Pinch Roller off from front- do not lose the black nylon washers as they are not easy to find. Loosen the u shaped plunger end stop where the spring is attached to the front plate. This will then allow you to slip the linkage straight back and off the shaft it is on. The stick glue-grease is what the problem is. Be careful in removing the linkage as the shaft needs to be straight and it should be tight when you get the linkage off. If not, there is a nut at the face that you can turn the shaft with that will allow it to become solid again. Clean both linkage and shaft off with denatured alcohol. We used white lithium grease also known as Lubriplate to re-grease the two parts. Some have said this is not a good idea as oil may be better. I have not had any problem with Lubriplate and I have been doing these for about 38 years now. We used Lubriplete at Teac in Chicago. We have never had to service a unit to date that had the Lithium grease applied- maybe in another 15 years. This is also a good time to inspect the Capstan belt, clean it and the flywheel, apply new grease to the center point on the flywheel and oil the bearings and motors. There is a lot of stuf to do with older machine like that to get them to go another 20 or 30 years and much of it is just not placed in text. If you don't want to take on such a project, I am available in the Chicago area to do it for you and calibrate the deck to the tape you like. Some people get their decks running but that does not mean they are at any means the same as when a Technician works on it. The thing you are seeing happens all the time and some of us can almost do it with eyes closed. If you are in another area there are people around the country that are pretty good- Rolf is down in Huston Tx, Russ Bachmann in New Jersey...
Yes, some people think that moving the Pinch Roller linkage is the answer to getting it going. Not in all cases but some I have seen that the linkage moves due to the screw in the front panel mounting the stud of the linkage is rotating when it should be solid. This eventually will result in uneven Pinch Roller alignment. This is what you have to do.
Take the back off the unit, remove the Thrust plate to the rear of the flywheel,
losen the fork on the Pinch roller linkage so that the solenoid plunger can be disengaged from the linkage. Take Pinch Roller off from front- do not lose the black nylon washers as they are not easy to find. Loosen the u shaped plunger end stop where the spring is attached to the front plate. This will then allow you to slip the linkage straight back and off the shaft it is on. The stick glue-grease is what the problem is. Be careful in removing the linkage as the shaft needs to be straight and it should be tight when you get the linkage off. If not, there is a nut at the face that you can turn the shaft with that will allow it to become solid again. Clean both linkage and shaft off with denatured alcohol. We used white lithium grease also known as Lubriplate to re-grease the two parts. Some have said this is not a good idea as oil may be better. I have not had any problem with Lubriplate and I have been doing these for about 38 years now. We used Lubriplete at Teac in Chicago. We have never had to service a unit to date that had the Lithium grease applied- maybe in another 15 years. This is also a good time to inspect the Capstan belt, clean it and the flywheel, apply new grease to the center point on the flywheel and oil the bearings and motors. There is a lot of stuf to do with older machine like that to get them to go another 20 or 30 years and much of it is just not placed in text. If you don't want to take on such a project, I am available in the Chicago area to do it for you and calibrate the deck to the tape you like. Some people get their decks running but that does not mean they are at any means the same as when a Technician works on it. The thing you are seeing happens all the time and some of us can almost do it with eyes closed. If you are in another area there are people around the country that are pretty good- Rolf is down in Huston Tx, Russ Bachmann in New Jersey...
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Thanks Skywave
I have it apart, cleaned and back together. It works a whole lot better now. I use to be a electronic tech in the Air Force and worked aircraft Electronic Counter Measures (ECM), so I figured that I could handle it. It's a whole lot easier working from a tech manual on something new. My $5 garage sale find is working nicely. Thanks Again
I have it apart, cleaned and back together. It works a whole lot better now. I use to be a electronic tech in the Air Force and worked aircraft Electronic Counter Measures (ECM), so I figured that I could handle it. It's a whole lot easier working from a tech manual on something new. My $5 garage sale find is working nicely. Thanks Again
consolenut
New Member
Picked up a 6300 and the unit powers up. However none of the switches nothing works. Not a blown fuse. No plugs unplugged inside. I am leaning towards the tape tension switch. It doesn't click or engage till it gets almost to the pitch roller. The spring is on the casing. and its connected to the switch. Any help appreaciated. the motors are free but the brakes are engaged.