TIP: Best way to remove light/medium scratches and hazing from dustcovers

Stephyn

Member
Hey All,

Just dropping a tip for those of you with hazy or scratched dust covers. I've used this method many times and it works amazingly well on most plastic/acrylic materials. If your dust cover is heavily scratched, you may need to wet-sand first. Don't attempt this if you don't know what you're doing, though.

You'll need the following:
- Random-orbital polisher
- Clean correcting pad (don't plan on using it again) - polishing and buffing pads don't work for this
- Meguiar's M100 compound (don't substitute anything else)
- Windex
- Clean micro-fiber cloths
- Plastic scraper - only if you have caked-on gunk
- Painter's tape - only if you have areas you don't wish to polish or badging that may possibly get damaged
- [Optional] Clean piece of scrap carpet

Start by cleaning your dust cover to remove ALL dust, dirt, adhesives, etc. Don't worry about introducing any light scratches if you need to use a plastic scraper and some Windex to scrape away tough to remove contaminants from the nooks and crannies. Those will buff out but ANY contaminants will ruin you dust cover in the following steps. Then tape off anything you don't want to damage (e.g.: badges, labels, etc). A clean piece of scrap carpet works wonders to help absorb vibrations and hold the dust cover in place while you work on the ground for this. Working on a bench can get pretty wild. Use Meguiar's M100 compound and random-orbital polisher on medium-high with a correcting pad to work over the surface until you begin to build mild heat. Only use LIGHT PRESSURE; you don't want to press too hard and crack your dust cover. Routinely check to make sure that you're not building too much heat and that you're not removing any of the tape from taped-off areas. Over-heating the material will MELT YOUR DUST COVER. Watch some YouTubes on automotive detailing if you're not familiar with using a random orbital; there's definitely a technique to observe. Ammo NYC has a good channel to pick up tips for using polishers.

Wipe the compound residue from the surface with a CLEAN microfiber and check your work. Repeat if necessary. It's that simple.

Cheers!
~S
 
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I wonder how this compares with the 14 page dust cover polishing the arid lost inside the TT stickies thread then further hidden inside billforts DIY Projects and setup thread.

https://www.audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/fixing-those-scratched-dust-covers.1398/

First off it sure is easier to read than 14 pages.

I need a polisher.
That’s too many pages.
I’ve never used Zaino so I can’t speak for it. It looks like they mainly cater to garage queens that only crawl out from under the cover for cars and coffee a few weekends per year. Those rigs don’t need paint correction, just a buff and wax. M100 isn’t boutique, but it isn’t a product most non-professionals have any business using and is usually used as a last-ditch effort in paint correction before having to resort to wet sanding. It’s relative to a #2000 grit abrasive and you can burn through a clear coat pretty easily with it if you’re not careful. Paint correction will require several further steps to clean up after using M100, but dust covers aren’t that tricky. I find that it’s not even necessary to follow up with lighter compounds or polish to achieve a +95% finish. If you want perfection it’s almost guaranteed that wet sanding is necessary. Polymers can be difficult to wet sand, though, and this isn’t a project you want to learn on.
 
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Thank you Stephyn for such a clear and concise guide.
But I might say that almost any rubbing compound will do, and I have done quite a few cover polishing. Sometimes I used M100, but when I run out of M100 I used Chemical Guys, Turtle Wax, Rolite...exactly with the same results.
Just make sure it is a ultra fine compound for plastic and acrylic surfaces.
Cheers
 
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