Unorthodox recapping method?

L

Lucaspm

Member
Hey guys, so I've got a pair of AR TSW-410's that I want to recap. The problem is, the crossovers are glued to a thin board, which is glued to the inside of the cabinet, and the posts run through all of it and are soldered to the back of the PCB. Long story short, it's a real pain to get it all off.

I was wondering if it would be inadvisable to forgo the hassle of removing the crossover entirely, and instead, leave it attached and de-solder the old caps, remove them, then insert and solder the new caps, while leaving the board assembly intact.

I know that the crossovers are wired in the orientation circled in the photo, and once I removed them, I could figure out exactly which is which and solder in the new ones.

One problem I can imagine is physically getting the caps into the right place, I'm thinking I'd be able to snake them around into place. But if they don't fit, I could just attach them in a different location and solder the leads into place.

Thoughts? Is it a good idea? Or would it be better to just heat up the glue, remove everything, then glue it back into place?
TSW-410 Crossover.png 20190521_132433.jpg
 
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Picking the least effort route... I'd be tempted to see if I could get the
leads from the old caps out of the circuit board, then solder new caps
in from the top (lay them on top of the board). It would work even if
you could only cut or desolder one end of the old cap/s. Failing
something like that, yeah, it appears you'll have to start melting glue.
 
RxDx said:
Picking the least effort route... I'd be tempted to see if I could get the
leads from the old caps out of the circuit board, then solder new caps
in from the top (lay them on top of the board). It would work even if
you could only cut or desolder one end of the old cap/s. Failing
something like that, yeah, it appears you'll have to start melting glue.
Click to expand...
Aah yeah I was thinking about something like that, maybe just cutting out the old caps and soldering in the new ones on top with the leads still attached? I'm not sure if the electrical connection would be good though? Is that what you're talking about?
 
One reason the caps are on the opposite side of the board from the resistors is to allow free air around the resistors and to avoid heat from the resistors being transferred to the caps.

Most likely, the new caps will be much larger than the old caps if you go with new films. They will not fit between the PCB and the mounting board.

I would not install the caps on top of the resistors. That will expose the caps to any heat generated by the resistors. Not good.

I would remove the electrical connections from the caps. I would then install new caps next to the PCB on the mounting board. I would glue the body of the caps to the mounting board next to the PCB. You may need to use insulated extension leads to connect the caps to their terminal points.

Oops. Zonker92 beat me to it as I was typing my response.
 
RTally said:
One reason the caps are on the opposite side of the board from the resistors is to allow free air around the resistors and to avoid heat from the resistors being transferred to the caps.

Most likely, the new caps will be much larger than the old caps if you go with new films. They will not fit between the PCB and the mounting board.

I would not install the caps on top of the resistors. That will expose the caps to any heat generated by the resistors. Not good.

I would remove the electrical connections from the caps. I would then install new caps next to the PCB on the mounting board. I would glue the body of the caps to the mounting board next to the PCB. You may need to use insulated extension leads to connect the caps to their terminal points.

Oops. Zonker92 beat me to it as I was typing my response.
Click to expand...
Ooh that makes sense, thank you so much for the info! That seems like a good plan so I'll most likely end up going with that.
 
Thanks, Lucas! The reason I did it was mainly because I was charge-coupling those caps (doubling them up so I could add a little bias current), which made them way too bulky for the circuit board. But, of course, the same general approach should serve your purposes, as well.
 
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