USB-SPDIF converter with TubeDAC-11 … Holy Cow !

brother love

brother love

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Maybe others can share their USB-SPDIF converter findings w/ the TubeDAC-11, but here is my weekend discovery …

After burning in my recently acquired TubeDAC-11 thru USB cable from my iMac (equipment set-up & review under DAC-11 impressions/questions thread), I recently purchased a used John Kenny modified M2Tech Hiface MK2 USB-SPDIF converter to try out the TubeDAC-11 SPDIF connection.

Using the TubeDAC-11 tube output w/ stock tube, I played 24/ 192, 24/96 & CD-ripped 16/ 44.1 FLAC tracks thru Decibel Audiophile Player, native, exclusive rights obtained (hog mode).

Conclusions: All sample/ bit rates were jaw-droppingly good w/ the TubeDAC-11 connected to the JK USB-SPDIF converter!
Inner detail, dynamics/ punch, subtlety, delicateness, musical accuracy were improved greatly over the USB-connected TubeDAC-11 w/ 24/ 96 & 16/44.1 tracks (which was no slouch by any means).

I played various “before (USB) & after (USB-SPDIF converted)” tracks for my non-audiophile wife (who prefers her iPod for music). Without any prompting, she immediately noticed the improvement citing “more detail" & "sounding life-like” as she called it.

I am a true convert to USB/SPDIF converters! I am in the process of ripping my CD collection & going “all-in” to the digital world.

While I got a deep discount on my used USB-SPDIF converter, they can be quite expensive. The Grant Fidelity-offered Consonance 24/96 USB & stock M2Tech Hiface converters are more affordable options.

Here is some info & reviews on John Kenny modified M2Tech Hiface MK2 USB-SPDIF converter. They make a MK3 version now as well …

http://www.digitalaudioreview.net.a...ews/item/184-j-kenny-modded-m2tech-hiface-mk2
http://stereomojo.com/Modified HiFace Mk2 Review/HiFaceReview.htm
https://sites.google.com/site/hifacemods/home/mk2-boxed-hiface-1
 
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The world of outboard DAC's and anti-jitter stuff is a real eye-opener when you've never had the experience. Imaging my jawdroppedness when I was wiring in my schiit bifrost, didn't realize that the on swich was deployed, when out of the blue this unjittered, clean clear and crisp signal came pouring out of my speakers and in copious amounts! I'd never even HEARD a DAC before, and you can only imagine how startled I was. My heart started racing and my chest started pounding...I swear I almost started palpitating! It's just now burning in, it's been 5 days it's been on and running, and it gets better each day. I can only imagine what a tube DAC sounds like!
 
is the converter only for people who use usb inputs? I've been using optical to TubeDAC optical, is that sufficient enough?
 
eclipes said:
is the converter only for people who use usb inputs? I've been using optical to TubeDAC optical, is that sufficient enough?
Click to expand...

In my case, 2010 iMac 15 ft. away from DAC & A/V equipment, Mac audio out miniplug is limited to 24/ 96, as is USB port (& TubeDAC-11 USB). Converting from USB to SPDIF Coaxial allows up to 24/ 192 w/ the TubeDAC-11. And for my long cable run, USB vs. SPDIF is the lesser of evils for minimizing effects.
 
eclipes said:
so i'm assuming optical output from my computer to optical input in TubeDAC-11 is sufficient?
Click to expand...

Yes, typically audible jitter issues are USB computer related on Windows, but the USB implementation on the TubeDAC-11 is very good, and gets better with our ASIO drivers for Windows and then gets better again with Consonance USB/SPDIF Box 1.1 reclocker. Some can hear the differences between the USB implementations, some can't, ditto the differences between USB, Optical and SPDIF.

A lot will depend on how high-end your system is and if you have ever heard a digital system that is close to jitter free, typically big bucks, the PC-1.5 power cable makes a much bigger difference than the 'hard to hear to many' differences in jitter which at the TubeDAC-11 level are quite low already. There are many types of jitter and having a higher end power supply in the TubeDAC-11 with the PC-1.5 does reduce noise and interference jitter, plus helps on the various outputs stages

And then there is tube rolling :) which is still the tweak that is easy to hear.

You should be able to easily set up your computer to swap between Optical and USB so that you can judge for yourself.

Cheers,
Ian
 
I am & always have been a mid-fi / budget audiophile. Excluding computer, my whole system is $3,500 (GR Research tower speakers w/ upgraded networks & Electra Cable braided cables, Oppo BDP-83SE blu-ray w/ Ultra Sabre DAC, battery-powered Virtue Audio Sensation amp w/ Dodd Audio tube buffer w/ Virtue Audio ½ meter interconnects, TubeDAC-11 w/ Electra Cable B-5 power cord & JK MK2 USB-SPDIF converter, DIY sound treatments, dedicated power circuit, Pass & Seymour outlets cryogenically treated). I tend to buy used or when stuff is on sale, never retail. With all that being said …

Upgraded power cord connected to the TubeDAC-11 is a nice improvement. I haven’t started tube rolling yet on this DAC, but I have done so on my tube buffer integrated amp & prior equipment. Tube rolling garners nice improvements.

But the John Kenny MK2 battery-powered modified M2Tech Hiface USB-SPDIF converter is not a “nice” improvement, but a” major equipment upgrade” improvement (a new one costs more than the TubeDAC-11, so it should perform at a higher level). I got a used one for nearly half that, but scrutiny remains. If I don’t hear an improvement, then I sell it & move on. I can’t speak for other USB-SPDIF converters, but the JK MK2 delivers mucho big time.

I was a reluctant digital convert. My previous vinyl rig (AR turntable w/ Premier MMT tonearm, Grado/ Audioquest mm cartridges) was my personal benchmark. The iMac w/ TubeDAC-11, Electra Cable B-5 PC & JK M2 USB-SPDIF converter clears that bar & then some w/ that added pitch black background! Beyond 16/44.1 redbook, the 24/ 96 files take it up several notches higher (yet to determine if 24/ 192 is better).

Referenced review by John Darko noted the JK MK2 battery powered modified Hiface was used w/ (5) different DAC’s by my count. In his words, the MK2 is beyond “highly recommended”, but “essential” for Computer Audio.
 
I'm also doing the JKSPDIF=>TD11, and like you I'm smittens with it. A 15ft SPDIF would have worked but I ordered a 17ft so I could face the JKSPDIFMK3 toward the stereo (an extra turn). If your lucky enough to have a great room, budget mid-fi is so much fun. But to score a winning line up of used+new components takes so much web browsing, I could have probably spent the same amount of time shopping for a new home, moving, and renovating. $3,500 is what I used to think my system cost, until I itemized the small stuff, and now the price clears $5k, which doesn't include the losses taken selling items that didn't make the cut, nor the cost of repairs to melted voice coils. If you ask me, I'm hearing hifi, not midfi. Another audiophile told me the same.

enjoythemusic.com did a good review on your M451. I read that Seth Krinksy from Virtue Audio bought 50,000 Tripath chips from Adya Tripathi, and the TC2000 and TP2051 chips went into the M451. Also, Cirrus Logic ended up getting the Tripath intellectual property at an auction for $3M. You probably know there is a Cirrus chip in your TD-11.

My second system runs an Audiosource Amp Seven with a TA0104A chip in it (as revealed by a flashlight). I believe this is the biggest tripath ever made.
 
eclipes said:
so i'm assuming optical output from my computer to optical input in TubeDAC-11 is sufficient?
Click to expand...

It can certainly be enhanced. Throw an Empirical Audio Sychro Mesh into the mix and it will tidy up a coaxial or optical SPDIF signal very nicely. Not cheap at $599 but the gains in my system were worth it. IMHO optical SPDIF needs all the help it can get, but YMMV. :)
 
2496 said:
I'm also doing the JKSPDIF=>TD11, and like you I'm smittens with it. A 15ft SPDIF would have worked but I ordered a 17ft so I could face the JKSPDIFMK3 toward the stereo (an extra turn).
Click to expand...

I have since purchased a used 2011 Mac Mini off local Craigslist, & use it as a dedicated music server. I made a cradle to where I slide the JKMK2 USB connection straight into the Mac Mini USB port. I run an SPDIF coax cable w/ a 10 db & 6 db attenuator on each end to the TD-11. It sounds great!

Seth Krinsky - Virtue Audio is a great guy. I have 2 of his amps.
 
If you are "computer inclined" you could clone it's 2.5" HDD to a SSD. I used Acronis True Image 2010 to clone my netbook's HDD to a 128mb SSD and that was a huge upgrade. The hardest part is cracking open the netbook to do the physical swap afterward. Now there is far less disk latency (no spin ups), less heat, and therefore less fan activity, so for the first time I don't hear my laptop that is seated next to me.

If I switched to a mac I would have to learn how to play FLACs natively, and it should have a great iOS remote app. I know PureMusic, Fidelia, and Decibel can play FLACs, but I don't know what their remote options look like. If you had a great remote app running on a tablet then you might one day move that Mac Mini and JKSPDIF next to the TD11 and switch to a short SPDIF.

I myself use the Monkeymote iPhone app to operate foobar running on windows 7 over my wifi, though I still prefer to keep the netbook beside the couch to retain full control.
 
Actually, since the Mac Mini is a dedicated music server, it IS located next to the TD-11 w/ a short SPDIF cable!

I use Decibel, & it works great for me (test drove Audirvana & liked it too). I followed The Absolute Sound argument of .wav files sounding better, & went that route (not a big deal in my case as my library was 250 gb total)

I do have a remote app that I use for my iPad2 (Remotix Lite as I recall). But since my 2 ch audio system is also used in my home theater, I generaly just use Mac Mini/ HD video/ bluetooth mouse set-up.

I'd love to get an SSD, but am not to anxious to get into the bowels of the Mini. I've seen video "how to" tutorials, but stilll ...
 
> 2010 iMac 15 ft. away from DAC & A/V equipment
>
our systems change like the seasons

I'll take a 16/44 FLAC or WAV -- whatever is available for free. But if I see a 48khz or better FLAC (though not a vinyl rip), then the choice is obvious.

If 96khz FLACs didn't exist I would probably have taken up vinyl years ago.

My netbook is not cut out for decoding giant MKVs. That's a silent desktop running XBMC, Arcsoft's TotalMedia Theater (hate that name), and of course VLC.
 
I use a $40 USB/SPDIF converter between my Linux netbook and my DAC. It sounds fantastic.

The guts of the DAC are far more critical.
 
I've been conditioned to believe that the cheapest one could do was $160 on an m2tech hiface. I've seen many a system at audio shops and shows using it. And I read reviews on DACs detailing the internals, and I've read a few use the hiface circuit board.

I'm sure if I ebay'd a "HA Info" or "MUSE" for $30 to $40 I wouldn't hear the difference. But then I'd be staring at it skeptically like my cat stares at cheap cat food.
 
The HA Info (what I use) uses the Tenor TE7022L chip, which is highly regarded, and used in higher priced SPDIF units, DACs, etc. (SMSL, Teralink X2, ESI Dr. DAC series, etc.) Beyond that, the components are all good enough to maintain bit perfect in the digital domain, which is all that is required.

The weekest point of any of these devices is the USB link, which is unavoidable, and they all share this weakness. However, to my ears they all sound fantastic. I have heard several of these devices of varying prices. I kept the HA Info and sold the rest.

By the way, I have read all the reviews of the various devices as well. My conclusion, after testing for myself, is that most of what is written about them is complete nonsense. But then I also know that CAT5 is as good or better than anything for speaker cables, and you'd have a very difficult time selling me a $100 power cable.
 
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I'm proud to say I never bought a power cable. But that's only because I use long air conditioner extension cords AND I know how terrible the electrical work is in my home.

I was tempted to follow a CAT5 recipe but I'm lazy and when I read one bad review on the idea that was an excuse to take the path of least resistance, which was paying out $153 to DH Labs for their Silver Sonic T-14.

I'm intrigued by single driver speakers. I'm borrowing a pair of DIY with 2.5" fostex drivers and they are my all time best PC speakers -- because they do so well with near field. Horribly inefficient though -- amp needs to be 60+wpc. I saw your 2nd system (Lepai + Tang Band) on youtube and those speakers look very much like my Fostexs.

If a home invasion left me speaker-less, or a pair spontaneously exploded, these would be the ones I'd build for me...
http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/full-range-speaker-kits/fostex-bk-12m-folded-horn-kit-pair/

If I were you I'd sell the DACWow and GF B-283 and get the TubeDAC-11
 
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