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Wanted: Sansui 5000A replacement boards for F-1040-1

afiction

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I picked up this 5000A as my first real receiver to go along with my vintage KLH 6 speakers. It sounds quite good, but I am completely new to this scene since I recently moved to a space where I can finally play music loudly. After researching this Sansui, I quickly discovered that these units were recalled due to overheating/fire risk associated with the original F-1040 boards. It appears this one wasn't serviced during the recall, so I guess I'll have to do it myself. I contacted someone about replacement boards they used to make, but they said they no longer produce them as of this year and recommended posting a wanted request here. So, if anyone is still making these, please let me know.

I also plan on cleaning this 5000A up and maybe try recapping some of the major pieces first. I think I'll start with some compressed air and then 91% isopropyl alcohol and Q-tips. I would love to document the process here. Thanks for reading.


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I have a 5000A and have had the F-1040 driver boards overhauled using a kit you can find on eBay. The seller is known as peace.love.and.music or affinity for artifacts. I believe he is also @EastPoint here on AK. I bought the kit and had a professional tech install it (beyond my novice abilities at this time). The pro struggled with the installation and had some real trouble getting it right (not a Sansui guy). It has been playing fine and sounding great for the last 5 or 6 months. Incidentally, I just sent my 5000A out to my real tech, a Sansui guy, a couple hours away. I've asked him to check the other guy's work and do the rest of his usual overhaul service. It's a great receiver and sounds wonderful - lots of punch. I have an 800, 3300, 4000, 5000A, and 7000 - I love this series. They're wonderful. Enjoy!
 
Ooof, that does sound discouraging for DIY. Maybe I should look for a tech in the PNW area, it sounds like it's worth throwing money at this model. I think these 60s/early 70s receivers are beautiful, particularly this one, and the original wooden case I got is in pretty great condition.

But it's starting to sound more economical to have simply bought a fully serviced system to begin with. We'll see, I do love a project.

Thanks!
 
I am a DIY did not find it difficult. Biggest pain is getting the wire braid loose to free the amp driver boards. Also I do believe the big problem with that board was those black square diodes mounted on top of the pre-driver transistors. Some users have also reported legs on those transistors in their unit were rotting away. Those diodes tended to fail going open and cause the amp circuit to go into thermal runaway. That kit should be giving you the parts for the @skippy124 mod replacing those transistors with the BD139/BD140 pair and using 1N4148 diodes shrink wrapped to each of them. These units are 55 years old usually electrolytic caps are drying out and a number of vintage transistors used in it are prone to noise or failure. Usually replace those trimmers on the amp board with modern cermet when in there too. They can build corrosion/tarnish cause bias to run away too. Can be nice sounding units when restored. My F-1040-1 boards did not use the TO-66 driver transistors, it had the smaller Sony metal can types on it.
 
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Biggest pain is getting the wire braid loose to free the amp driver boards. Also I do believe the big problem with that board was those black square diodes mounted on top of the pre-driver transistors. Some users have also reported legs on those transistors in their unit were rotting away. Those diodes tended to fail going open and cause the amp circuit to go into thermal runaway. That kit should be giving you the parts for the @skippy124 mod replacing those transistors with the BD139/BD140 pair and using 1N4148 diodes shrink wrapped to each of them.
Those braids are what scared me off. I wasn't ready for that. Honestly, it was a good thing though. As much trouble as the first tech had with my 5000A, I'd have been in way over my head.

The tech who did my F-1040 mods has maintained an electronics repair shop here in town for a couple of decades so I assumed he could handle this limited assignment and it would be a good start to getting to know him. Well, what I learned from dealing with him directly which was later confirmed by many in the local audio community, is that he can be very difficult to deal with and he's a real crank. He struggled mightily to get one of the channels under control. He called me very angry and wound up after a couple of weeks. He said the kit was short parts (I seriously doubt that) and that he'd had to order additional replacements. He went on to explain that he'd actually blown the outputs on troublesome channel and would have to order replacement which he'd found. I believe that's one of the problems we were trying to avoid! I authorized him to proceed, at my expense, because I realized immediately I didn't want to argue with him and I just wanted my 5000A back and working. Anyway, another couple of weeks and a significant amount of money later, he told me to come pick it up. He literally gave me a five second demonstration that it was working and shoed me out of his shop bitching and moaning about Sansui the whole time.

That was back in April. My 5000A has worked just fine since and it does sound great. It's also a nice clean example (one original owner before me). I noticed the shrink-wrapped diodes at D801/802 (if I recall correctly?), and they both look sloppy and they look different from each other. One and done with that guy after that experience. Thus, I've now sent it back out to the good Sansui guy and asked him check the first guy's work and do his usual overhaul and adjustments to the rest of the unit. It's worth it to me.

I found the easiest way to remove the braided grounds from the boards was to snip them about 1/2" off the board. There was enough slack to solder them together when I was done.
This is good to know. The drivers in my 800 appear to be installed the same way if I remember correctly. Haven't felt the need to do anything with that one yet because it works great, but for future reference, this is helpful.


Maybe I should look for a tech in the PNW area, it sounds like it's worth throwing money at this model. I think these 60s/early 70s receivers are beautiful, particularly this one, and the original wooden case I got is in pretty great condition.
100% worth it however you get there. Don't be discouraged. It can take some time and lots of patience to get these vintage beauties sounding their best. If your unit is in good cosmetic condition, you can be reasonably confident that it was well taken care of, likely works fine, and sounds amazing. You can be sure the build quality is excellent and that's why these receivers are so reliable and work so well 50+ years later. I was in the exact same boat last Spring as you are now. I found my mint 5000A locally living with the original owner's granddaughter. Original service manual and schematic included. I was very excited to have made my first in-person local purchase only to return home with it, post here in my novice excitement, and be quickly educated about the damn F-1040s! The 5000A is a very worthy receiver. It just happens to come with some critical special needs. Keep us posted on your decision making and progress.
 
My father's 5000a played fine, and played a LOT from the day he sent it back from Tokyo / PX until around '82 when one of my brothers blew an output using it for a party, never caught fire though!

The dealer installed 6013 boards and it played fine again. Lovely sounding receiver, I have a lot of great memories of that stereo and it started me along a path of appreciating audio equipment as much as the music, with a strong case of 10-watt-itus (the affliction that causes one to continuously seek more power).
 
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So long as the F-1040 boards have not yet self destructed the Skippy Mod will do you fine. Problem with the braid, as I see it, is the large amount of metal you would need to heat. It can be done but is not worth it. Cut it. Not sure about the F-1040 boards but the 6013 boards get sufficient ground through the mounting brackets provided one scrapes the solder mask away for a good connection.
 
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