What headshell to use? Do they make a difference?

Well I just bit the bullet and bought 2 genuine technics for 38 bux not to bad but they seem to be what everyone suggests thank you for the help
 
needlestein said:
I have no complaints about the ones I have that bear the Pickering logo. I can't tell, of course, if the ones you have are the same thing or a knock off that looks exactly the same in photos minus the logo.

img52406026.jpg
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This is what I run in black. Like the way it shows off my xv-15. Dislike how high the fingure lift comes up did an little careful bending so my Garrard could operate with the dust cover down.
 
I really like my 'stock headshell' for my 1980 Sansui SR-838. It's really a nice headshell and works really well. ($75 used)

And Yes, of course... a great headshell makes a big difference ! Gold leads too.

** Always wanted to try a vintage (very early 80s) 'flat top' 10gm magnesium Nagaoka. ($75+ used if you can find one. They are hard to find. The new models go for $135 +/-. I'd prefer vintage. Only seen 2 for sale in the last 10 years. Should of bought it when I had the chance the first time. The second one, a few years ago, was missing the pick up lever. It's like the folks that have them just aren't selling them. I wonder why??)

Of course a stable headshell makes a difference. So does a great cart.
 
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"Geez, those look nice, too. I might get some of those for my MC's. I think Audio-Technica markets this same head shell as the MG10 with the AT logo and it can be found on ebay second hand for about $40. The MG10 doesn't use slots, though. It seems to have tapped holes in the underside--not sure if that would allow for fine tuning of overhang or not. I don't have one to recommend."

i think you're right about no slots and wrong about the double pins. yes, the AT looks excellent but fixed mount points on the shell mean you need a sliding base tonearm mount such as on the SME tonearms.

https://www.google.com/search?q=sme...NUH0Mao_M:&usg=__e9Lc9n91Fl-KhbgNS53VpfFRM4o=

real SME headshells have one fixed mounting point so the adjustment fore and aft for overhang are set by moving the whole tonearm, then locking it down. even multiple points prevent the all important small adjustment required for alignment.

the stanton and pickering shells are malleable metal and so less desirable.
 
proper alignment is likely more important than the 2 gram headshell weight difference. the sumiko/zupreme is about 12 fgrams.
 
I found one of those old mag ADC headshells. It's about half the weight of the machined Aluminum headshell I'm using now. My cart is an AT440mla. Seems like it'll be a better combination for it. Hopefully it'll all sound nice with my table. I also bought one of those old Realistic test records with sweeps and warble tones. Will be interesting to play around with it.
 
i like the adc but really, the 440MLa doesn't need the lowest mass like an ADC XLM does. the AT cart is excellent, i had an original that when it first cam out i got from B&H for $80.
 
Dx....jx...rose !

Check it !

Your magnesium headshell is a dense material impervious to the vibrations that are happening from the motor, platter, cartridge situation. Head shells made from dense materials stop vibrations from entering the cartidge. A headshell that is made from a porous cast material is a soft light material that allows vibrations to pass through it and those vibrations are amplified in the cartidge. Then the wiring within the headshell that hooks up to the cart makes a difference also, chances are that the magnesium headshell is sporting oxygen free copper wiring that reduces the hiss effect ! On that note.....grounding the turntable separately to an outlet that is not being used, grounding the Reciever to a different outlet....then grounding the TT to the receiver makes a big difference !

It's not the name....it's the materials used in the way that distortion and vibration are cancelled out ! Then too, the cart you use is omni important. Monkey see, monkey do is not an accurate interpretation of what is the best thing to do !

You have a great headshell.....probably better than most ! You might want to consider an upper level Ortofon cartridge !
 
My technics headshells showed up today... Ended up getting them for 14 each do to a shipping issue and a partial refund... They are 7.2g and very nice looking
 
in re: your broken wire, this may be a time when it is worth buying aftermarket headshell wire such as the audioquest for $25. they are Litz high quality copper and come included on the Sumiko/Jelco/Zupreme headshells. that makes the $55 price of the Zupreme headshell look more like a bargain.

http://www.elusivedisc.com/AUDIOQUEST-HL-5-HEADSHELL-LEADS-SET-OF-4/productinfo/AQ-HEADSHELL/

the smaller the signal, the more effect wire quality has on a signal. a phono signal before going through the RIAA eq in a phono section is VERY small indeed.
 
Try long term listening. The differences won't be readily obvious. Differences in wire are subtler than even electronics.
 
which electronics, speakers, cartridge and tt ? it makes a difference if it is low end or pretty good. a kenwood kd500/grace 707 tt/arm combo through some separates and decent speakers will tell you more than a pmount tt/cart through a receiver. i am not being snobbish, it's like camera/lenses, the better they are, the more you hear/see.

i went from a vivitar point and shoot, a canon sure shot (the first one) and the difference in the pictures was aMAZing. same with audio.
 
actually, the wires on that shell are pretty generic. it does get better than that. something worth trying---the LPGear Zupreme headshell that has the Litz wires. the headshell is also superior to the orto.

i am not being high on a horse here either. you can only know if you hear it for yourself.
 
The Ortofons are good enough for me. I have an expensive Jelco headshell that came with my arm and I detect zero difference between the two. Those that hear differences are free to spend their money for the expensive ones - I have no issue with that.
 
I received my "high end" Ortofon LH-2000 headshell yesterday. It's the headshell that comes standard on their TA-110/210 arms, which themselves are kind of hot-rodded Jelcos. It definitely feels well made, the wires look of good (but not "exotic") quality, but compared to the $29 shipped Ortofon SH-4 I don't really see where the extra cash went.

Of course, perhaps holding a headshell with no cartridge mounted in your hand isn't the best way to evaluate it :)
 
needlestein said:
This thread from Steve Hoffman forums gives me hope that I can use the MG-10 for my OC9ML/II as well as my AT150mlx.

http://forums.stevehoffman.tv/threads/audio-technica-at-mg10-magnesium-headshell-nice.130721/
Click to expand...

I have an MG10 that I've never got around to using, but I've heard a lot of stories of people getting perfect alignments even with the preset mounting holes. I think there's definitely method to AT's madness of preset mounting slots, especially when you use AT carts. I don't think you have anything to worry about.
 
Ironically, I have the Sumiko, the Lp-Gear and the one that come with my Jelco tonearm(all Litz)and the Ortofon SH-4 but I do prefer the original Technics(7.5g) head shell for most of my cartridges . . .
 
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