What paint to use when refinishing the metal case on equipment?

W

wingman0121

Active Member
Specifically the non-glossy type of finish found on many receivers, tape decks, amplifiers, etc... I know how to prep the metal surface but I'm just not sure what kind of paint am I suppose to use so it gives that flat finish that's easy to dust yet durable enough so it doesn't flake off.
 
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Firstly, I'm a custom painter by trade, just so you know I'm not talking unexperienced. My suggestion would be to use a good etching primer. (available in spray bomb form to make it simple.) Just a light coat is needed. This will help the new paint or primer bite to the surface properly, especially if there is bare metal showing. I would recommend a high build primer (2-3 full wet coats allowed to flash off between coats)over the etcher, left overnight, then sanded with a #600 grit paper to a smooth even finish. Then light coats of satin black, like a product called Met Black, or any good quality automotive trim black. Napa Auto Parts sells these products. The high build primer is a two part primer in one spay bomb, only good for a couple days once activated, but is cheap enough and easy to use. If you allow the paint to dry to it's satin lustre before adding extra coats, you will get a nicer durable finish. 3-4 coats of the black or sufficient. I hope this helps.
 
Guystp has a professional system.

If you want to make it simpler, quicker and cheaper try this. Use a spay can primer, usually gray, Krylon would be good buy I have used Walmart cheap stuff too.

Then for a top coat use spay can Krylon Satin Black from Walmart, Target or hardware store. The Krylon Satin Black is the best match for low gloss or satin finish I have found and it gives a durable and close match for many pieces of audio equipment. Use light coats and sand with fine steel wool between coats. You also can use the ones Guystp recommends.
The Krylon Satin Back also is the best match for old black Lionel trains and almost all model railroaders use it and this is where I got into using it.

Charlie
 
Everything I spoke about was spray cans, just better quality as they are designed for automotive use which is exposed to the elements, making your efforts last much longer. By the way, you don' t sand between coats. You simply let the color flash,meaning the paint is starting to look dry, then the next coat, and so on. The only reason to sand is if you should get dust or unwanted marks in the finish, then you can scuff with grey or whitescotch brite. If I'm going to the trouble of refinishing an audio cabinet, I want to use the better materials. For the sake of a couple dollars, it's well worth it.
 
guystp said:
Firstly, I'm a custom painter by trade, just so you know I'm not talking unexperienced. My suggestion would be to use a good etching primer. (available in spray bomb form to make it simple.) Just a light coat is needed. This will help the new paint or primer bite to the surface properly, especially if there is bare metal showing. I would recommend a high build primer (2-3 full wet coats allowed to flash off between coats)over the etcher, left overnight, then sanded with a #600 grit paper to a smooth even finish. Then light coats of satin black, like a product called Met Black, or any good quality automotive trim black. Napa Auto Parts sells these products. The high build primer is a two part primer in one spay bomb, only good for a couple days once activated, but is cheap enough and easy to use. If you allow the paint to dry to it's satin lustre before adding extra coats, you will get a nicer durable finish. 3-4 coats of the black or sufficient. I hope this helps.
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Auto painter here,I have never heard of a two part filler primer in one spray can,what is the product your talking about?

@wingman..I like to use satin black Krylon Fusion paint thats for plastic. Its designed to adhere to plastic without the need for primer,and it works good for that,but its also for over primed metal and other surfaces too.I like it better than just the regular satin Krylon as it seems to cover better and lay down better and i like the satin sheen it has better. Walmart has it.

If you run into the situation that a flat paint is too flat and a satin is too shiny,you may try a high temp stove or barbique paint.I just used some on a woodburner and it is kinda in between flat and satin.Or try the trim black from a autobody supply store.
 
guystp said:
Firstly, I'm a custom painter by trade, just so you know I'm not talking unexperienced. My suggestion would be to use a good etching primer. (available in spray bomb form to make it simple.) Just a light coat is needed. This will help the new paint or primer bite to the surface properly, especially if there is bare metal showing. I would recommend a high build primer (2-3 full wet coats allowed to flash off between coats)over the etcher, left overnight, then sanded with a #600 grit paper to a smooth even finish. Then light coats of satin black, like a product called Met Black, or any good quality automotive trim black. Napa Auto Parts sells these products. The high build primer is a two part primer in one spay bomb, only good for a couple days once activated, but is cheap enough and easy to use. If you allow the paint to dry to it's satin lustre before adding extra coats, you will get a nicer durable finish. 3-4 coats of the black or sufficient. I hope this helps.
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I painted top end professional for years.....this is all the most solid advice possible that is an easy grab,easy procedures and NO drama.
 
Quote:"Auto painter here,I have never heard of a two part filler primer in one spray can,what is the product your talking about?"
It is called SprayMax. The hardener is encased in the main spray bomb, and release to mix by a valve on the bottom of the spray can. It is a USC product, and they also make a 2k clear that work the same way. Great for small jobs such as audio cabinets and for small panel repairs. The primer is about 14.00/can
Even Amazon sells it, although their price seems a little high.
 
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guystp said:
It is called SprayMax. The hardener is encased in the main spray bomb, and release to mix by a valve on the bottom of the spray can. It is a USC product, and they also make a 2k clear that work the same way.
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Interesting! I've not heard of that before.may have to check into it! USC seems to be getting big,i've been using there two part clear coat,and really like it.Its really cheap,good for use on used cars!!
 
it's perfect for spot priming, but I usually try to have a few projects to use the can, otherwise you waste it due to it only lasting a few days after activation.
 
Just be aware that it can be difficult to get an exact match as the factories had all sorts of different finishes. Best to plan on doing a full repaint and just come as close as you can.

I recently did a radio chassis that had a real unique pebblegrain surface. I was able to recreate that with a stone paint knocked down a bit with sand paper and followed up with semi-gloss black also cut with sandpaper to tone down the highlights a bit. Turned out nice, but a real PITA.

One thing to be real careful with ... some cases have textured paper glued to the metal. Hit one of those with paint and watch the paper peel.
 
Thanks for all the advice guys! I live in Wisconsin so right now it is not a good time to spray paint anything due to subzero temperature, I'll have to wait until June or July to do it outside (no ventilated spray booth).

What do you guys suggest for components with that tanish silver case such as the Pioneer SX-8?
 
Direct to metal (that means it's the primer and top coat in one) 2-component catalyzed (with hardener, so pretty tough) in a spray bomb....

http://www.eastwood.com/paints/2k-aero-spray-paints.html

Of course, it's $25 a can and that's what my business (we specialize in high temperature ceramics and powder coating) charges to powder coat an amp case. And powder coating is superior in terms of adhesion and durability to anything wet spray....so you may want to see if there are any powder coating shops near you. It'll last forever if done properly and there are many different gloss levels to choose from.

- Michael
 
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I supervised refurbishment of $12,000,000 worth of Nak gear back in the early 90's. My guys used plain old rattle cans to redo the topcovers. I think it was Krylon. No primer. Lots of it looked so good it was made "A" stock, against my protestations. We never received a single complaint about the way the covers looked.
 
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