wood finishing advice needed

[goodolpg]

Has anyone mentioned that rags used with some oil products/lacquer thinner etc can sometimes spontaneously combust?
I always put the rags outside fairly soon after use.
Might be rare, but just in case...

 

[woofmytweets]

ARRGH ARRRGH! IT BURNS, WHYYYYYYY!!!

actually, i'm working outside. as yummy as this thinner smells, i need BOTH my brain cells, so i have 2 to rub together.

 

[woofmytweets]

work progresses. i was gonna quit with the thinner, but some fool messed with the dryer, and so my clothes have to go for another hour. i will wait till they're put away before i start making sawdust.

 

[lokerola]

The last steps in that finish was adding a Raw Sienna dye tint coat to get a yellowed aged lacquer look and again more layers of color and depth. Then final coat in the sheen needed for the job.

View attachment 984372 View attachment 984373 View attachment 984374

Truly impressive!

 

[woofmytweets]

ok, well i'm done thinning lacquer. i've used 2/3 of the bottle, not sure how much i've inhaled, but i've been at it on the balcony for almost 3 hrs in total, and i've just realized, i don't have a balcony.

anyway, i'm very pleased so far. getting set for the light sanding. loosing daylight, so it might have to be a dark sanding.

 

[goodolpg]

Ya know what's fun....using paint stripper without gloves, and then having to go p, well you get the idea.
Do not try that at home. Or anywhere else.
Also, human eyes and paint stripper/lacquer thinner are not a good combination. Safety glasses are a good thing.
Sticking lacquer thinner doused rags in your pocket is also not recommended, nor is leaving them on plastic surfaces.

 

[woofmytweets]

first coat of teak oil

 

[woofmytweets]

Ya know what's fun....using paint stripper without gloves, and then having to go p, well you get the idea.

way ahead of you on this one. I hired a painting stripper. her job is to take off her clothes and hold me when i pee. didn't cost much more than the 4lb box of white rags.

 

[woofmytweets]

ladies and gentlemen, i give you: the finished product. i may have left the oil a bit too long, it was kinda tacky and came off with a bit off elbow grease.

pics:



it's not flawless, but i'm happy and it's certainly way better than before. i wasn't able to completely delete the sun-bleaching on the one side, but it's greatly diminished. sadly this case was not in mint shape to begin with, but it's certainly a lot more presentable now.

next up? my ReVOX A77's veneer.

 

[goodolpg]

Much better!

 

[4-2-7]

ladies and gentlemen, i give you: the finished product. i may have left the oil a bit too long, it was kinda tacky and came off with a bit off elbow grease.

pics:

View attachment 984892 View attachment 984893 View attachment 984894 View attachment 984895

it's not flawless, but i'm happy and it's certainly way better than before. i wasn't able to completely delete the sun-bleaching on the one side, but it's greatly diminished. sadly this case was not in mint shape to begin with, but it's certainly a lot more presentable now.

next up? my ReVOX A77's veneer.

Oh it's so hard, I'm afraid

Don't you love the feeling when you get past the not knowing and then do it. Looks good but let it dry a few days and do it again. Good job you didn't destroy the aged look and it just looks well maintained for the past 40 years.

 

[woofmytweets]

Oh it's so hard, I'm afraid

Don't you love the feeling when you get past the not knowing and then do it. Looks good but let it dry a few days and do it again.

lol yeah, thanks for your help - i have to admit i was really worried to hit it with the 180 grit, it was soooooo smooth already, and the veneer is not thick. but here we are....i will resist the urge to lift up that 90 lbs monster and put on another coat in a couple days. if i wanted to make it a bit darker, would that be easily accomplished?

 

[4-2-7]

lol yeah, thanks for your help - i have to admit i was really worried to hit it with the 180 grit, it was soooooo smooth already, and the veneer is not thick. but here we are....i will resist the urge to lift up that 90 lbs monster and put on another coat in a couple days. if i wanted to make it a bit darker, would that be easily accomplished?

Well by stripping the old dry oil out of the wood you made the wood able to absorb the fresh oil better deeper and more evenly. The same goes for a little sanding giving the wood some absorbency and tooth to hold the stain or oil. Using finer grits on raw wood, what you start doing is polishing the wood, hard parts of the gran will be slick and stain will not want to penetrate. If you want it darker you can do that by getting the same teak oil in a color instead of natural. The first coat of oil will act as a stain controller so it will no get as dark as what you might think.

If you get the same brand in a dark color you can also mix it with the one you have now to make it lighter. Example, you get a color and you test a little spot but it's to dark, you can mix the natural to weaken the darkness. Als o lets say you got a dark color, but it's not dark enough, well put a coat of it on, let dry a few days and give it another one adding more color each coat.

 

[woofmytweets]

Well by stripping the old dry oil out of the wood you made the wood able to absorb the fresh oil better deeper and more evenly. The same goes for a little sanding giving the wood some absorbency and tooth to hold the stain or oil. Using finer grits on raw wood, what you start doing is polishing the wood, hard parts of the gran will be slick and stain will not want to penetrate. If you want it darker you can do that by getting the same teak oil in a color instead of natural. The first coat of oil will act as a stain controller so it will no get as dark as what you might think.

If you get the same brand in a dark color you can also mix it with the one you have now to make it lighter. Example, you get a color and you test a little spot but it's to dark, you can mix the natural to weaken the darkness. Als o lets say you got a dark color, but it's not dark enough, well put a coat of it on, let dry a few days and give it another one adding more color each coat.

interesting - it's minwax teak oil, i don't think it comes in other colours. perhaps i can mix in some stain?

 

[woofmytweets]

Well by stripping the old dry oil out of the wood you made the wood able to absorb the fresh oil better deeper and more evenly. The same goes for a little sanding giving the wood some absorbency and tooth to hold the stain or oil. Using finer grits on raw wood, what you start doing is polishing the wood, hard parts of the gran will be slick and stain will not want to penetrate. If you want it darker you can do that by getting the same teak oil in a color instead of natural. The first coat of oil will act as a stain controller so it will no get as dark as what you might think.

If you get the same brand in a dark color you can also mix it with the one you have now to make it lighter. Example, you get a color and you test a little spot but it's to dark, you can mix the natural to weaken the darkness. Als o lets say you got a dark color, but it's not dark enough, well put a coat of it on, let dry a few days and give it another one adding more color each coat.

OK, so it's time to reuse this thread for the environment.

I have moved into phase 2: the ReVOX A77

i've got the cabinet off, however there are several plastic pieces that are "melted" into the cabinet, and cannot be removed without damaging them. i have tested the laquer thinner on the bottom of one of the feet, it does not react well. so, is there a stripper that i can use which is more safe for plastic? or should i just mask off whatever isn't wood and proceed carefully.

also there's some whiteness when i hit the finish of the revox with the thinner. what's that? old poly (or equivalent)?

i shall start masking while i wait..oh and here are some before shots: