Working on the new shack.

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You can install an outlet rated less than the wire and the breaker. #12 wire and a 20A breaker will support up to that amount of current. A 15A outlet will be under-rated for the circuit, which is acceptable. But you can't do the opposite. In other words, you can't put a 20A outlet or breaker on #14 wire, which is only designed to carry a maximum of 15A.
 
I don't understand why 15 amp receptacle's are allowed on 20 amp circuits. Or maybe they're not?
Anyway, do avoid cheap 15 amp receptacles. Yes the good ones cost more, well worth it.

The reason is that it is assumed that a typical 20A branch circuit will have multiple receptacles sharing the load.

But yes I agree it is best to avoid the cheapest of the cheap 15A receptacles. There are some good quality 15A receptacles (or at least there used to be) that I would feel OK using on a 20A branch circuit that has several other receptacles on it. If there is only one receptacle on a circuit then of course definitely use 20A receptacle. Never use the spring wire inserts on the back to connect wires. Side screws or those screw clamps where the wires enter from the back are both good.

my .02¢
 
One thought to add on the clamp style outlets, is that I have seen one case where the wires were inserted behind the clamps instead of inside them. Screws were tight and the installer assumed the wires were clamped but they were not. A bunch of replacement receptacles were done this way in my sister's house.

Don't know whether this mistake is possible with all camp style receptacles, or any current ones. It was about 10 years ago that I found this problem. I also knew the guy who installed them, nicest guy you could ever meet, friend of the family, jack of all trades...not an electrician.
 
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Found a mystery outlet behind the oven.

This oven has no feet and is propped on 4x4s. Is it actually supposed to hang from the countertop ?

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I can't imagine the top of that oven is designed to support its weight. I suspect there is supposed to be a base that it rests on, and then the top edges slide over the countertops on either side. I think the 4x4's were there because they didn't buy (or build) a base.
 
I can't imagine the top of that oven is designed to support its weight. I suspect there is supposed to be a base that it rests on, and then the top edges slide over the countertops on either side. I think the 4x4's were there because they didn't buy (or build) a base.

It's strange because it has a slot below the top for the countertop to slide into.
 
It's strange because it has a slot below the top for the countertop to slide into.
Yup, that sounds about right. That way there's an overlap between the stove top and the countertops. I believe some installers would seal that with clear silicone so nothing gets trapped under the stove top.
 
right, makes it all fit together neatly with no gaps. Also very inclined to agree those slots and that top don't have enough structure to hang a stove and oven from. I'd expect leveling feet on the bottom of the stove to make it all fit properly but be supported. Without an adjustment you'd never get that stove sitting proper relative to the countertops without it hanging from the slot. Maybe they got lost, or the 2x4 is really fatter than it needs to be and they removed the feet to make it go together. Should be easy enough to see where a foot was if there ever was one. 2x4's may be there to make up for cabinet height due to screwed up floors. I have a piece of 3/4 plywood under the rear end of my stove for that reason.





can't imagine an AC unit sitting right above the stove like that is a good idea either.
 
They didn't have the countertop in the groove, had a wood spacer on each side because this is narrower than a regular one.

The ac is going to the dump.
 
Fan makes noise and I don't want one there. I've got another I pulled and replaced with a larger one sitting on the floor of the garage that drips inside on the floor.

Ok very well, I wasn`t thinking of a window unit remaining at that location, just if the window AC still functioned properly, it might find a use elsewhere.
 
These things keep hitting the floor when I remove some outlets, anyone know what they are ? Clear plastic with a hole, look like smooshed clear tubing.

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These things keep hitting the floor when I remove some outlets, anyone know what they are ? Clear plastic with a hole, look like smooshed clear tubing.

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Those pieces were installed to hold the receptacle out flush with the wall. Sheet rock hole cut too large. Also, technically any box that is not flush with the front of the sheetrock should have a "box extension" to make it legal. Retired electrician here if you have any questions or concerns. Been there and done that for about 40 years.
 
Those pieces were installed to hold the receptacle out flush with the wall. Sheet rock hole cut too large. Also, technically any box that is not flush with the front of the sheetrock should have a "box extension" to make it legal. Retired electrician here if you have any questions or concerns. Been there and done that for about 40 years.

Not for that reason here, I purchased, and installed, back in the mid nineties foam gaskets kits for all my house`s electrical outlets/wall/ switches/ceiling light fixture boxes..
Seem to seal well and help restrict the cool air leaks during the winter that I noticed when operating the fireplace/bathrooms FFs, and was a whole lot easier than sealing all the wire feed header holes in the attic with caulk.
 
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