Yamaha CA-1010 vs. CA-2010

meatyogre

meatyogre

New Member
Hi guys. Second post. I'll try not to embarrass myself too badly. I have had my ca1010 for about 4 years now and I have developed an irrationally strong love for it. On cold nights I like to put it in class A mode, cuddle up with it, and stare fondly into it's winking meters. So, I figured my relationship with a 2010 could be all the more intense. I picked one up (for top ebay dollar) knowing that it was going to need a little work. I'm an artist type and not comfortable at all with working on my own electronics so it wont be until I take it to a shop (probably Deltronics in Chicago) before I know what it's going to need.

Anyway, when it's all fixed up, will there really be any reason to keep it over the 1010? The 1010 gives me enough power and sounds great. Does anyone here have enough experience with both models to be able to say that the 2010 is actually better? Eventually I'll want to sell one of them.

And why do the numbers around the volume dial on the 2010 go from highest to zero (backwards) while the 1010 goes from zero and up (normal)?
 
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meatyogre said:
And why do the numbers around the volume dial on the 2010 go from highest to zero (backwards) while the 1010 goes from zero and up (normal)?
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If you look at the scale, it's in -db up to 0, so it's more technically accurate.

I've never heard the CA-1010, but I've had the CA-2010 for several years, and I adore it. The phono stage on it is superb, and the whole thing is silky smooth. Hope yours makes you as happy as mine does for me!
 
Maybe the 2010 has a step attenuator (multiposition switch and a set of fixed precision resistors) and the 1010 has a normal potentiometer?

I don't know; someone here will, or it's worth a look at "The Vintage Knob".

The main reason I am replying, though, is to comment on the OPs really cool avatar. "meatyogre", can you comment on its genesis?
 
Yeah, the 2010 has twice as many steps in the tone controls. (Visually, I prefer the 1010.)

And thanks, the image is interior album art from "Innervisions", Stevie Wonder. I dont know who the artist is.
 
Aw c'mon Rob...

merrylander said:
The 2010 has one of the square, sealed, multi-section pots from Alps.
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If there's anyone here qualified to take a stab at the OP's main question, it's you...

Anyway, when it's all fixed up, will there really be any reason to keep it over the 1010?

I'd love to know too, because even though I really enjoy my newly resurrected CA-1010, I've always had a hankerin' for a CA-2010....:scratch2:
 
Gents, while I have had both go through here I do not have the kind of setup that allow me to run them against any of my speaker setups. This is a all-in-one receiver home with CR-1000, CR-2020, CR-2040 and a CR-800. So where exactly am I to audition a 55 pound amplifier? On the basis of why I have a CR-2020 instead of a CR-1020 I would probably keep the CA-2010 although I doubt that either is as efficient a heat pump as my Trane 1400.:D
 
Ok....

merrylander said:
Gents, while I have had both go through here I do not have the kind of setup that allow me to run them against any of my speaker setups. This is a all-in-one receiver home with CR-1000, CR-2020, CR-2040 and a CR-800. So where exactly am I to audition a 55 pound amplifier? On the basis of why I have a CR-2020 instead of a CR-1020 I would probably keep the CA-2010 although I doubt that either is as efficient a heat pump as my Trane 1400.:D
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Then how about from a build quality, features, rated power vs real power, etc...the measurable and quantifiable kind of things, ears (and back) aside...:scratch2:
 
To be honest I find the same build quality in Yamaha receivers - and the amps - from the CR-220, CR-240 up to the CR-2020 and CR-2040. The bigger units have heavier chassis simply because of the massive power transformers. Yamaha spent as much thought into everything they built back then. Can't speak for today because I tend to stop at the CR-n40 days although I have done a few of the early R- series.
 
And thanks, the image is interior album art from "Innervisions", Stevie Wonder. I dont know who the artist is.
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Given that I have two copies of Innervisions on vinyl, you'd think I'd have known that! :-P

(may I just add that Living for the City is an all-time favorite of mine?)
 
The only thing I know is that the 2010 has 120wpc vs the 1010's 100wpc. Pfft. As if I could hear the difference between 100 and 120wpc. :stupid:
Tom
 
I got my 1010 first... loved it, sounded great...Echowars went through it even. Had a chance to get a 2010 for a nice price last Xmas... loved it, sounded better, sounded 'bigger'.... used it exclusively until November...got a CA-1000 last November from Walker after using the 2010 since last Xmas. And haven't used the 2010 since. Out of my three specimens... the 1000 wins:thmbsp:... hands down. The 1010 and 2010 are both very good and close to each other in what comes out of the speakers... the meters on each rarely went over 10 watts in normal mode thru my Polk Monitor 50's. But the 1000 at 70wpc, through those same Polks... wins the shootout. And of course, I realize I have just one of each specimen and each is 30+ years old. And I apologize for the ending of my post being off topic.
 
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One thing I dont like about the 2010 is that the volume levels I use are limited to such a small fraction of the dial. On the 1010 I might occasionally get the dial to "3 o'clock", but on the 2010 I can barely move the dial without it blasting me across the room. It makes small volume adjustments difficult, especially at lower levels. Is this just from the increased power or is the volume hardware different?

Is it safe to compare two amps to eachother by wirring them both to one set of speakers and alternating back and forth? Someone suggested this but it made me a little worried. I know nothing about electronics. :no:

The 2010 does sound a little bigger, although I dont know if that's a good thing for my ADS L810s. Does anyone else feel that 810s are a little boomy? To me the bass seems like it's too much, which surprises me since everyone seems to hold them in such high regard. I traded my 730s for them and frankly, I'm worried I made a mistake. Btw, I just had the 810s and the 2010 checked out and serviced as needed, so I think they're working like they should.

Thanks again for the feedback.
 
I've not heard the 2010, but I'm starting to think the 1010 is one of the nicer amps I've heard. Unless mine is not working, I can't imagine "3 o'clock" on the 'ole volume knob.

Don't have them both connected at the same time.
 
meatyogre said:
One thing I dont like about the 2010 is that the volume levels I use are limited to such a small fraction of the dial. On the 1010 I might occasionally get the dial to "3 o'clock", but on the 2010 I can barely move the dial without it blasting me across the room. It makes small volume adjustments difficult, especially at lower levels. Is this just from the increased power or is the volume hardware different?
Click to expand...

Holy cow. If I played my 1010 at 3 o'clock, I'd blow either the speakers or my eardrums. I very rarely need to play mine past 9 o'clock... and my speakers are known to be quite inefficient (86dB/1W).
Double-check the Audio Muting switch underneath the Input Selector; make sure it's centered and not at -20dB. If it is centered, perhaps some contact cleaner is called for.
Tom
 
Well,
I see this is a few months old, but nevertheless:
(1) on the subject of the L-810 speakers, have you got them on good stands at least 12 inches off the floor? Are either of them in a corner? Are they too close to a wall? Those are boundary issues that could make them sound boomy.
(2) As to the various CA models, the CA-1000, 1010 and 2010 are all such great amps! If all are working well, I don't even think a double-blind test would tell you which is best (just that that all sound superb). The CA-1000 was the original, and the the 1010 and 2010 grew out of that design. If you had really inefficient speakers, the extra power might be a big deal, but your L-810's are pretty easy to push. Picking one and having one of our Super Techs go through and adjust Bias/offset and replace any marginal caps, resistors, etc. would probably maker a greater difference.Enjoy whichever! ; )
 
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In response to an ealier question I would not connect both amps to the same speakers in order to make a comparison. Instead use a double pole double throw (DPDT) switch and switch back and forth with the power off. You will be wanting to play the same selection so you will need to switch the TT or CDP in any case.
 
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