Yamaha CA-1010

Same here. Supposedly Class A is a "purer" or more accurate waveform than Class AB. I won't even try to explain how it works...but what I do know is that Class A makes a LOT of heat!
Tom
 
I've heard from both sides of the camp on this debate. That is, class A making a noticeable audio difference, and others saying not anything they can notice.

I've not done it myself, and wonder if indeed I'd be able to tell any difference at all.

I'd like to think I could, but I don't think my ears are trained enough to even consider I'd be able to pick up the difference. My hearing may be sharp enough, but I don't think I'm experienced/educated enough to tell.
 
All I know is that I can't hear a difference in sound, of all the amps i've had with that option I've never really used it other than to see if I could hear a difference and the biggie for me is that heat kills electronics.
 
I'm in the same boat trying to hear the difference. Unfortunately (or maybe it's very fortunate!) I cannot hear the difference either.

Not to say it's not there or unnoticeable but it's not happening with these ears unless someone was to point out what I'm supposed to hear.

You're right about the heat though. Even at very low volumes it doesn't take long does it?
 
cabinover You're right about the heat though. Even at very low volumes it doesn't take long does it?[/QUOTE said:
Not long at all. Break out the eggs and make breakfast type hot :)
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Get the bias adjusted. I attached the adjustment page, but be careful not to blow the amp up if you're never done this. Best bet - bring this print out to a tech and have them do it. I did mine cold in AB and A as per the manual. After several hours in class A I checked the bias again- it had dropped about 30mV so I left it. If you set the bias when it's hot it will then be overbiased by 20 to 30mV when cold and drop when hot. The heatsinks will get almost too hot to touch but still bearable in A mode, but the grill on the case should not be too hot to touch. (I set the AB bias when hot, and it barely gets warm.)

I hear no difference in A or AB, but very difficult speaker loads might be the true test here as that is where class A supposedly does well. A Quad ESL-57 would be nice to try out. Listening to 15w class A makes me wonder why I need a 100wpc amp at all.
 

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I was going to note, for the record, that the CA-1010 has 100 wpc at 8 ohms in Class AB and 20 wpc in Class A (in the SM). It's a very stout machine, I had one for a time and then sold it here...but I kept its big brother, the CA-2010 (120 and 30 respectively).

BTW, I do notice an audible difference in Class A with my CA-1000 (Yamaha's earlier integrated). The sound is crisper...uh...well...and warm (figuratively and literally). The amp turns into a little furnace.
 
I always had 15w stuck in my head for this amp in class A mode, but my manual shows 18w into 8 ohms A mode, and 90w in B mode. That's from 20-20,000 Hz, under 0.02% distortion). Always wondered what it would spec at if measured at the 0.1% level that competiton of the day rated their amps at. The service manual says 100w in B and 20w in A (1000Hz?). Who knows? Who cares - they sound excellent!
 

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I should have my CA-2010 sometime late this week. The manual puts it at 30w Class A at 20Hz-20000Hz. I'll maybe play with the Class A mode a bit before giving that up...again :)
 
packrat said:
I always had 15w stuck in my head for this amp in class A mode, but my manual shows 18w into 8 ohms A mode, and 90w in B mode. That's from 20-20,000 Hz, under 0.02% distortion). Always wondered what it would spec at if measured at the 0.1% level that competiton of the day rated their amps at. The service manual says 100w in B and 20w in A (1000Hz?). Who knows? Who cares - they sound excellent!
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Now, isn't that interesting...you are correct, the manuals are different and the SM does say 20-20,000. Somewhere I read here that the Yamaha B-1 amp SM is riddled with errors (no doubt in translation). I also noted to Nakdoc that my Yamaha B-6 amp's SM [the pyramid] shows a slightly different test point (TP) layout than the actual circuit board layouts and and even a third set of info on the amp adjustment charts...that was one reason that I had Nakdoc adjust THAT amp for me as opposed to me muddling through it all, and making a fatal error.
 
Some Yamaha manuals got errors in them because they built two different receivers on the same boards and chassis, to wit the CR-1020 and CR-2020, etc.

Rob
 
The CT-1010 is the only one that is the same width as the CA-1010/2010. They are wonderful tuners, much better than the 610/810 and then to sell for very low prices considering how nice they sound (not the best for pulling in distant stations) so you should keep a lookout for one.

Congrats on the amp, it is a great one.
 
You may use any tuner you like with the CA-1010; all it needs to do is have line-level outputs. You may even use a mono tuner, if you wish.

The CT-1010 would've been the "matching" tuner model for the CA-1010 and CA-2010, if that's what you are asking.

In this day and age, with the CT-1010 (a very decently performing tuner) available for less than a C-note, there's no reason to go with one of the lower-end Yamaha models.
Heck, one could seriously consider a CT-7000 or a T-2 :-)

CT-610II:

CT610II.jpg


CT-1010:

DSCN6031.jpg
 
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Yeah, I meant the looks and width of CA-1010. I'll have to keep looking for the CT-1010 then. I haven't seen them on eBay...

What about the (late 70's) Yamaha turntables? Are any of them about same width as CA-1010? I really love the looks of YP-700 & YP-800.
 
tts I don't know about - prolly, though.
The Yamaha tts of that time AFAIK were all CEC OEM and are perfectly decent if unremarkable bits of hardware. They look nice, though... very Yamaha.

YP-B4p1.jpg


You also need one of these; y'know, to complete your stack ;-)

TC1000.jpg


(this deck came before the CA-1010... but if memory serves it's about the same width.
 
Nice, but I think I'll stick with my Akai GXC-710D cassette deck. :smoke:

By the way, how good are the headphone output and turntable input (RIAA) in CA-1010? I have the entry level Pro-Ject Head Box II and Phono Box II at the moment. I wonder are the built-in systems of CA-1010 better than those?
 
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The cassette deck's nothing special - but it does look nice...

The phono section in the CA-1010's pretty good. Dunno about the headphone output; can't say I've ever heard/tried one.
 
mhardy6647 said:
The cassette deck's nothing special - but it does look nice...
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Which one? Yamaha TC-1000 or Akai GXC-710D? :D
Any ideas which one of those is better?

mhardy6647 said:
The phono section in the CA-1010's pretty good.
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Yeah, I suppose so. Do you Yammie people use mostly the CA-1010 built in RIAA or some external device with it?

mhardy6647 said:
Dunno about the headphone output; can't say I've ever heard/tried one.
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I'd like to hear some opinions on this.
 
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