I did this after taking the pic. I did continuity tests and it seems ok. I can desolder/resolder but all seems ok.Clean up that blue area with alcohol or acetone. Inspect the transistor solder connections.
provide another photo of that transistor solder connection. Put some light on the subject.
OKI did this after taking the pic. I did continuity tests and it seems ok. I can desolder/resolder but all seems ok.
Roger that. Anode of D804 to R907 is 180 ohm, OL (although my meter bounces around 1 ohm for a bit)With the unit unplugged.. Measure the resistance between the R907 and the anode side of D804. One end of R907 should read 180 Ω the other end should be zero Ω's or shorted.
View attachment 3163721
Oh interesting. It does the same. It dances around under 1 ohm. I guess my leads have some resistance!What does your meter read if you short out the two test leads ?
OKOh interesting. It does the same. It dances around under 1 ohm. I guess my leads have some resistance!
.1 ohmOK
From D803 cathode to D804 anode ?
edit: something is wrong here. I measure 14 vac on the resistor lead facing the edge of the board and 1.7 vac on the other lead. Very small mv dc on each lead.Recheck for DC voltage on R907 make sure you have a solid electrical connection on the resistor with your meter lead.
I believe so. I built it using a thread here. It glows bright for a second and dims. But I never tested it to be sure.Does the dim bulb operate as it should ?
Yes. That one was spewing and swollen, so it seems like a clue. I checked this and found no DC voltages. Perhaps a diode upstream?Have you replace C813 ?
Maybe 1-2 cheapies that came with testing equipment. I can order some.Do you have any new diodes on hand ?
That is likely what killed C813. Polar electrolytics do not play well with AC voltage...I think D803 has failed. In circuit using a diode test on DMM it reads .002 both ways. D804 reads .6v + lead on anode, OL + on cathode.