My head is spinning right round....

wow, talk about obscure. I have tried every combination of the names we have so far, models etc - zero! I even consulted Tobins Spirit Guide....zero

surely there has to be a Sams out there somewhere....
 
That is a very nice looking console, see why you bought it. Would take some work but maybe make new baffle boards with cutouts for a 2 way design, then Econowave it.
 
wow, talk about obscure. I have tried every combination of the names we have so far, models etc - zero! I even consulted Tobins Spirit Guide....zero

surely there has to be a Sams out there somewhere....

I know right. I did see one reference post (maybe on this site) that was quite old that the person was looking for some info on the same unit or similar. He also received a dead end. Well...it'll be shelved for now...but not forgotten. I do plan to use it if I can fix it, likely become the new garage stereo or basement workshop stereo....

That is a very nice looking console, see why you bought it. Would take some work but maybe make new baffle boards with cutouts for a 2 way design, then Econowave it.

Thanks, honestly I think all the wood consoles are very nice looking. Theres a beautiful unit near me that was repurposed with an SX-650 and a huge woofer/tweeter/mid combo in it. I personally really like it...originally he wanted $750 for it but has dropped to $600 today. He didn't know this isn't something you can make money at I guess.

Anyhow, nah, gonna keep the speakers as is..well if I can find the caps. Local electronics place was a wash...and I got lost on mouser as to the proper caps to use. The current ones are AC 12V 15 uf and 5uf. Not sure but think I should be ordering axial film caps, mouser is only showing them at 100V which I believe is fine...

Ian
 
Cool unit. I think you're killing your mid performance by subbing a 100UF cap in for a 15 though - hopefully just a temporary move :) Crossover cap values are pretty critical to frequency response.

Good luck with the resto !
 
Cool unit. I think you're killing your mid performance by subbing a 100UF cap in for a 15 though - hopefully just a temporary move :) Crossover cap values are pretty critical to frequency response.

Good luck with the resto !

Thanks...yes..actually once I removed the 100uf the speaker continued to work...just needed a kick start I guess. Ordered replacement Solens from parts express...holy shipping batman....ouch.


Ian
 
I'm a watn.

Hahaha...next week my friend...I must get my head back into my network+ course while waiting for the parts....although if I start burning out on the learnin the turntable will come out to be rewired for the 'modern' receiver and to see how much damage was done to the cartridge/shell.


Ian
 
Surely your not asking me because I don't know caps from tops. I thought YOU new about all that stuff. You know, double up to get value needed and what knot?
Well, if we don't know then somebody here does. They always do. Asks and you shall receive.
Me I just patch this stuff up as best I can and call it good whenever possible. I don't actually do any skilled electronics repair. Ain't vintage great?
 
12v caps up to 16v - very popular, but 5uf, ok 4.7uf is within 10% but really 15uf? you can get it, but it wont be as cheap as a popular size....without a SCM its gonna be hard to figure our what the 15uf cap is doing....this isnt the crossover is it? 15uf would be like 1000hz or less.....
 
Yeah...that's what I am reading...and it goes to the tweeters...
 

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looks like woofer midrange tweeter and since there is 3, ok that makes sense. there is a C = 1 / (2*pi*f*R)

what is the ohmage of the woofer?
 
It's not labeled, but I believe it's 8ohm. If memory serves it's not as simple as measuring the coil with my meter...correct me if I am wrong. If you look closely it looks like a hybrid series wiring. Input direct to woofer, then parallel from woofer through cap to the mid. Then parallel from wooofer through cap to the two tweeters.l which if i remember right are in series....on my phone now so don't have the pic handy.

If you scroll through the first page of this thread and you can see the wiring. The yellow wire is + and red is grd on the receiver. The two reds from the left and right are tied to the single grd output on the reveiver.
 
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Just for the record and I'm not trying to be a spelling Nazi or anything like that, it's bass, not base. :)
 
So you're running your woofer full range, and this is somehow not state of the art right? Or does it not really matter?
So the woofer should get a simple something to stop everything above whatever range so it doesn't work so hard at stealing from the other three?
This would be a very "small" can of worms right?

And, I just bought a 1970 Magnavox 1500 with lots of stuff wrong with it so I too can commiserate.
 
impedance of a speaker = the resistance part plus the imaginary part or Z= R +jX

R is the ohmage part and at rest, it will do. the jX is the reactance and it varies with frequency and we call it 'imaginary' cuz it has 'j' in it, which like i, aint entirely rational. suffice to say, you see stuff like 'nominal impedance' which is derived from little more than the 'average' effect that reactance has vs resistance. yes, depending on the frequency, should your listening tastes run to mono-tonal material, the load the amps sees can be less, or more than the at rest resistance.

fun fun.

but it Mr DMM says 8 ohms, plug it into the formula I gave you AND the crossover caps are bi polar.
 
So from that I can draw the simple conclusion that impedance changes constantly when using the amp? And can put an amp at risk?
 
speaker impedance varies over the frequency spectrum and can peak high and low
depending on the music and power fed to it can be a problem especially at the low.

the impedance is "nominal" not average, not median. a 4R speaker can drop down
to where sustained amp usage is not recommended (by the manufacturer - do check
their manual).

you do not have to worry unless the speaker is a 4R (nominal) (with lows that suck power)
and you PUMP UP the volume. best case, low-to-medium volume is OK.

worst case, low bass heavy, super trebles, tone controls maxed out, with heavy/death
metal intended to rattle fillings, your windows, your neighbor's windows, signal aliens,
and you turn it up even more.

one transient or some component (active, passive, in the signal path, out of the signal
path, input from your source, etc) failing then that takes out one driver then the output, then
the rest fails due to cascading or exceeding limits, then the rails short the entire paralleled
output stage and sends 40 to 80 volts to your speakers, then bass pops out of
basket, the treble coils melt, then the amp fuses or protection kicks in after the fact.

love rock but if loud is your thing, rethink these poor speakers that usually destined
for background news, classical music, elevator versions of 70's Rolling Stones.
think quad CV D9s or quad L100s, backed by 1000wpc amps.

but before you get nervous, download the schematic for the amp, and look at the
protection circuit. if it's just a simple (marketing speak for cheap) fuse, then find some
super fast fuses. find the lower of the maximum power of both speaker and the amp.
then using nominal resistance, calculate the current at this lower maximum power,
then consider derating the fuse. then buy them by the bag no matter how expensive
it is - your speakers AND amp are far more important than saving a couple of pennies.

My Hafler 101 had an added headamp that blew the 1/16A (as I recall), and it was
a hassle to remove to replace the fuse in my rack. This and the replacement 1/10A
fuse was somewhere between $5-10.
 
ok, because I had a senior moment and I am pretty sure I am having a stroke, I replied a detailed response to this thread which prolly had everyone fitting me for a straight jacket. so I removed it, posted it where it needs to be, and wrote this....

sorry, we are still at no joy for your service manual...
 
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