Instead of creating a new thread, I am attempting rekindle this old thread with the same subject, "Thorens TD124 Tonearm advice". More specifically, I am trying to replace the original tonearm on my Mk1. The original tonearm lacks antiskating compensation and cueing. The headshell is also nonstandard using a diagonal orientation of the 4 pins. I found a Denon DP790 tonearm that was reasonably priced, but once I got it, I quickly discovered it was 8" long (without the headshell), the original ESL tonearm is only 7" long. I have two choices; replace the wooden deck where the tonearm mounts and move the hole back 1 inch or I carefully disassemble the DP790 tone arm and remove an inch. If I attempt to move the tonearm back 1 inch the counter weight would hang over the plinth preventing the placement of a dust cover. Shortening the tonearm would require taking a half inch from each side. Any ideas?
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Just get a new armboard and position the *new* arm correctly.
Thanks! I am considering this as my first option, but the tonearm counterweight extends over the rear of the plinth. BTW- is there a template that shows exactly how a tonearm is oriented to the platter?
This is what AI says: Google Search
That's not the only calculation you'll need to position it properly and I am not knowledgeable enough to verify it. Perhaps another member can be of help.
That's not the only calculation you'll need to position it properly and I am not knowledgeable enough to verify it. Perhaps another member can be of help.
Blue Shadow
Waiting for Vintage Gear from this century
Most separately available tonearms came with a template for locating the arm post on the arm board. It is frequently different from brand to brand but some companies did make arms that use common arm board layouts. Such as Infinity using an SME arm board cutout.
Some of these templates are available at VE or elsewhere online as well as possibly just measuring the distance to locate based on specs. There are some arms where this will not work. The Magnepan arm does not pivot over the top of the arm post meaning an offset is involved.
With the template on the spindle you can make an arc* along which the hole will be drilled for the arm. Selecting the location, use the tonearm and position it along the arc and see what works best. The Magnepan arm has a 2-part template used together. The spindle to arm board and a tonearm template to allow first, the correct location to make the arc and second to allow evaluation of the arm as it would be installed. A bit more than most arms.
But if the correct distance…along the arc…you may find better locations wrt dust cover hitting the counterweight or positioning the arm for best aesthetics, something to consider before drilling.
The SME with its long cutout is a different animal and it can be pointed to the spindle or parallel to the side of the table and anywhere in between and still work as intended. With fixed holes in the headshell, not slots, moving the arm sets the stylus overhang past the spindle for proper alignment.
* This is where you Evaluate the location for proper dust cover use and such.
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Thank you for the wealth of information. Most tonearm kits were beyond my price range of $200, so I opted to purchase a used tonearm from a reputable manufacturer, Denon (DP790). Consequently, it does not come with a template, but I think if I look around I might find one similar. The TD124 has a very small outline base and plinth. I can build a larger plinth with viscous damper feet and make the dust cover deeper. Obviously, I would save the original plinth and arm board/tonearm to keep it original value.
In Switzerland the Ortofon AS212 was sold as well with the Thorens TD124.
The AS212 is an excellent tonearm, sold as well on the Suisse Sonnex SX500 with SME-type sliding base.
The AS212 imo is far superior to the SME 3009MK2 or improved. But it needs to be overhauled:
The 2 magnets of the clever antiskating go lose and remain stuck. Need to be reglued.
The bearing housing made out of plastic often is damaged due to wrong transport (counterweight left on during transport)
An Italian company sells replacement bearing housings on ebay which are well made.
Ideally one rewires the tonearm, then it really sings.
I tried to attach photos but that won't work, no idea why! Whenever I try to attach a file (jpeg, jpg, PNG) I get the message:
Ooops, we run into some problems.
Does somebody know why?
The AS212 is an excellent tonearm, sold as well on the Suisse Sonnex SX500 with SME-type sliding base.
The AS212 imo is far superior to the SME 3009MK2 or improved. But it needs to be overhauled:
The 2 magnets of the clever antiskating go lose and remain stuck. Need to be reglued.
The bearing housing made out of plastic often is damaged due to wrong transport (counterweight left on during transport)
An Italian company sells replacement bearing housings on ebay which are well made.
Ideally one rewires the tonearm, then it really sings.
I tried to attach photos but that won't work, no idea why! Whenever I try to attach a file (jpeg, jpg, PNG) I get the message:
Ooops, we run into some problems.
Does somebody know why?
Attachments
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Blue Shadow
Waiting for Vintage Gear from this century
Server upgrade issues. Seems the issues have been resolved based on some more recent posts with pictures mentioning the problem had prevented an earlier image drop.
Try again.
Thanks
Thanks, worked. Sadly the photos are not of high resolution. But better than nothing.