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Yamaha NS-1000M ...

I have mine logoless too at the moment, i've ordered some logos though.

I heard the system at my boss' place today, it put my kit to shame, i've never heard such a transparent, detailed sound, but what really stood out was how easy it was to listen to, not harsh or forced in any way. Knocked me out. He's been making high end hifi for decades so it should be good. I thought my NS-1000M's would be able to trounce his small DIY aluminium cabinets/stands (cabinet and stand all in one with the stand tube part of the cabinet) but they sounded much better, i put that down to the electronics he was using (also all avondale kit).
 
Think you were listening the great imaging supplied by smaller monitors. Nothing can touch a good set of monitors for doing that. However, they do not have the capability to do other things as well (bass, depth of soundstage, seamless sound top to bottom, etc.). Play around with the location and various other items such as height, toe-in, etc., with your NS-1000Ms and they may start sounding close.
 
what kind of amps is you boss using?

maybe try some tubes on your NS-1000M. i swear they are soooo SMOOOTH with tubes!

i use vintage restored McIntosh MC60 tube amps. my friend mainly uses McIntosh MC75 monoblocks with his NS-1000M. but just for shits an giggles, we put one a set of antique sound labs single ended 845 amps. about 19wpc. sounded GLORIOUS!

see ya,
Robby
 
Although imaging has never been strong point of Yamaha speakers, a properly placed NS-1000M as I have heard in studios can sound truly marvellous, NS-1000M are by no means ideal bookshelf speakers, as such, they are subject to room acoustic coupling like floor standers, in that case, the its quite dependent on the room used. As for amps, power them with a B2x or MX-1000/1 or 2000/10000 and you have a sound combo like no other.
 
Here's an informative little find, the crossover section is quite interesting, 'self healing metallised paper'. :scratch2:
 

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morksbeanbag,

Good find, interesting reading indeed, didn't know about the self healing aspect of the mettalized paper caps.

http://www.freepatentsonline.com/4190878.html

The disintegration of the aluminum layer in standard capacitors which takes place as a function of electric field strength is prevented by use of a thin coating which includes a small amount of evenly distributed copper. The average percentage in weight of copper in an aluminum layer is preferably between 2 and 5 percent. The coating is vapor deposited.
 
NS-1000M Cross Over Question

Hi folks..
Just found out this forum and I am so delighted.

Anyway, I have a pair of 1000M ( last set manufactured/sold back in the late 1988 in New York's J&R Music world ). Anyway, love the speaker's articulation. Fast forward to 2007, and I have decided to DIY a new version of the NS-1000M by building my own cabinet using dense Polycarbonate panels and NOS original highs, mids, and woofers.

Then the problem of cross-over surfaced. Trying to get another set of the original cross-overs is nearly impossible. Does anyone know the true values of each and every Cap, Inductors found inside the NS-1000M cross-over? Looks like I have to build it from scratch, and I need to know the actual value of the components. ( The values listed on the cap and Inductors are not the actual value. My understanding is that Yamaha matched each pair of speakers to near identical value ) I was also able to find the actual wire diagram on how to connect each part. ( I don't want to open up and measure the individual capacitor by cutting the interconnecting wire of my current NS-1000M )

Anyway, any help from the experts here will be greatly appreciate. :D

Thanks
Amorphous
 
hey, can one of you Yamaha NS-1000 nuts do me a favor. if any of you remember, please confirm that the woofers indeed use the red wire to positive and the black wire to negative. just wanna make sure i installed the new woofers correctly and Yamaha didn't do anything weird like us a red wire for the negative. i forgot to take note before i clipped the old ones out.

as it stands, the older woofers (with even the one that buzzes), had more throw than the new ones from partstore.com

the new ones are the "B" version with the revised magnet structure. the speakers sounds great with my REL Q100 sub, BUT the bass is certainly lighter than with the older woofers.

hmmm... I'm still not ruling out having either audivex in Berkeley realign the woofer with the rubbing VC or finding a good used earlier woofer.

but maybe the new ones will loosen up with time? the cones movement is stiffer than the 30+ year old ones.

i seem to remember some british NS-1000 nuts saying that the earlier speakers were more "lively". meaning fuller bass. maybe the earlier woofers had longer throw, but the revised version didn't suffer from magnet shift?

see ya,
Robby
 
centaurus3200 said:
hey, can one of you Yamaha NS-1000 nuts do me a favor. if any of you remember, please confirm that the woofers indeed use the red wire to positive and the black wire to negative. just wanna make sure i installed the new woofers correctly and Yamaha didn't do anything weird like us a red wire for the negative. i forgot to take note before i clipped the old ones out.

as it stands, the older woofers (with even the one that buzzes), had more throw than the new ones from partstore.com

the new ones are the "B" version with the revised magnet structure. the speakers sounds great with my REL Q100 sub, BUT the bass is certainly lighter than with the older woofers.

hmmm... I'm still not ruling out having either audivex in Berkeley realign the woofer with the rubbing VC or finding a good used earlier woofer.

but maybe the new ones will loosen up with time? the cones movement is stiffer than the 30+ year old ones.

i seem to remember some british NS-1000 nuts saying that the earlier speakers were more "lively". meaning fuller bass. maybe the earlier woofers had longer throw, but the revised version didn't suffer from magnet shift?

see ya,
Robby
Click to expand...
Yes ,Red to positive,Blk to neg. Pulled the woofer out of the NS-1000 to verify...:D
 
On woofer and mid red goes to positive and black to negetive, the tweeter is wired out of phase.

This should help.
 

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Morksbeanbag,

Thanks for the circuit diagram..
I've finally measured the caps, they are on average 4.43uF each, and measured values are identical to the other cross-over. Amazing!!

Amorphous
 
I am not surprised, measured my crossover caps on both the 1000x and M, they were all within specs, just incredible.
 
:scratch2: Anybody want detailed impedance data (plots included) of the components used in the NS-1000's? I have access to, and experience with an HP-4194A Gain/Phase/Impedance Analyzer and if someone wants to :D donate :D a pair of 1000's for characterization, I'd be more than happy to do that. They can be in rough shape, I don't mind. :yes:
 
Vint Age,

Very cool that you have all that testing gears.. I may send you ( lend :D) the cross over and some drivers for testing.

Also, regarding to why the tweeter is 180 degrees out of phase...
It's electrically wired out of phase, BUT, acoustically it's in phase.

Remember, the tweeter is physically mounted on the same vertical plane with the mid and bass drive, and since base and lower freq travels a bit slower than high. The designer has to wire the high driver and shift/delay the high frequencies so that by the time all the sounds reach your ears, they will be perceived as in phase.

I am currently working on building a slant cabinet, and I will try to put the tweeter back in phase and see what happens.

Also, I am looking for a used pair of NS-1000X Carbon Fiber Woofers.. ( will pay good $ )
Anyone is interested, please PM me. Thanks

Amorphous
 
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