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Recap of Yamaha C-2

avionic

" Black Knights " F-15 back shop EW avionics
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Just recieved capacitors for my C-2 recap. Elna (cerafins and SILMIC II)and Nichicon(muse). Now if I can just find some time to install..Just not enough hours in a day.
 

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Looks like 36 or so...?

Since both my C-4's get hot--normal for them? (shielding good, poor ventilation)--caps in there probably age faster. :sigh:

So I'm thinking the same needs to happen here. :D

Plus the high gain in a Pre may have more to do with eventual sound quality than lotsa other links in the chain. Hmmmm....
 
Looks like 36 or so...?

Since both my C-4's get hot--normal for them? (shielding good, poor ventilation)--caps in there probably age faster. :sigh:

So I'm thinking the same needs to happen here. :D

Plus the high gain in a Pre may have more to do with eventual sound quality than lotsa other links in the chain. Hmmmm....

Actually only 33 electrolytics.:D My C-4 is going to eventually be next.
 
Along with replacing the caps, you will find that 100-200 solder connections need touching up. The C-2 runs very hot, and components often begin to work loose.

When resoldering, do NOT use the "reflow" method recommended by novices and greenhorns. Use fresh solder and add it to the original solder dab.

Some novices and greenhorns will also say that a solder joint is not "complete" until all the flux has been burned away. This is DANGEROUS to components. Holding the iron on the work long enough to volatilize most or all the flux will very frequently damage the component you're soldering.

Best,

Fred Longworth
 
I recently updated my C-2a with 30 new electrolytics, along with the reflow method Fred advises. Its fairly easy to work on, nothing tight at all.


c2a1.jpg
 
Use fresh solder and add it to the original solder dab.

Thanks! I started a thread for soldering tips here. Very helpful replies from some very knowledgeable AK'ers! :thmbsp:

Is it best to simply add, or first heat & draw away some of the orig dab volume before adding the new? Or only when space is an issue?
 
specialidiot, thanks for the pic!

On my C-4's the Achilles Heel is the input selection switching mechanism--funky strip of tensioned metal onto a bearing--needs too much upkeep. (I thought it was a problem with the balance control at first. )

Yours has lots of green sealed ones on the input selection, phono, and Rec Out, that look like the nice Volume one on mine.
 
I will apply the tip of the iron to the solder "dab" -- endeavoring to touch the component lead sticking up from the center. Then I will press the fresh solder simultaneously against or very near the contact point between the tip of the iron and the protruding lead. A complete solder joint should only take 2-3 seconds.

If you are doing a significant amount of soldering, I highly recommend having a fan that blows across the working area. This will carry off the flux vapors. If a fan is not available, hold your breath while the plume of flux is rising past your head. The major occupational illness associated with production-line soldering is not lead exposure; it is flux-asthma.

Fred
 
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