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What pay attention to when buying a Denon dp-59L?

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Soldering to those contacts it will be hard to keep from melting the plastic. How were the wires connected when you got it out? It doesn't look like there's any solder on them now.

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk
 
sar8 said:
hello,

I went to see a technician (hifi specialist)
and he proposed me to buy a rewiring kit
like this

http://www.ebay.fr/itm/Cardas-33awg...rntable_Parts_Accessories&hash=item461e7dc820

and to solder wires directly to the pin contacts (see photos) without using the tags.

What do you think? Should I do it or should I use tags?
Soldering wires directly seems to me to be very delicate operation.
Click to expand...

I would solder directly to the pins, but I have experience doing that kind of soldering. I wouldn't use anything more than a 15 watt soldering iron. I would tin the pins and the wire first. Then solder together quickly. You melt that plug and you're done.

Jon
 
Just FYI there are counterweights and an armwand on eBay right now. Absolutely not mine/no affiliation but I thought the OP might want to know.
 
The adventure is over:-))

Hello, everybody

Well, finally I fixed the tonearm problem.
I had to wait some day for cardas wires from England.

I replaced the wires, then assembled the tonearm.
Put a cartridge. and everything works!!!

The sound is great. I have not yet finetuned it but already the result is great.
It was difficult to solder these very thin wires.
and difficult to put everything back together.
I think the wires could be a bit thicker.

I did not solder directly to the pins, I used clips.
But now everything is fine.

actually the arm lift happens to function too. There was no problem. I just had to set it up properly.

The antiskating works, I could verify it.

I don t know yet if the Q-damping really works. Because I dont know how to verify it.

But there are chances it does. Everything works, why it should not?

Moreover, I even bought another tonearm (S-shaped). It has not arrived yet from Norway.

So, everything is fine.

My question now is how could I find out the year of production?
is it possible?

There is an lable on the back side of the TT.
But I dont know what the figures can signify.
Any ideas?

And thank you very much everybody for the advice. You were very helpfull!
 

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My guess would be 2001. To me the both 01's seem to be separated slightly. Maybe it's 261st unit made in January 2001.

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I don't know what I was saying when I said that. Wasn't really thinking that's for sure. Anyway, I looked on vinyl engine and it looks like they might have only been made in 1984.

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According to vintage knob the DP-59L was in production from 1984-1996. I'm not sure how many they were still making in 96...I believe mine is from 89. BTW I love mine :D
 
I am very late to this party but I am very glad it all worked out
Many years ago a good friend gifted me a DP-62L a very similar table it was missing one of it's 4 counterweights which was the one I needed of course but at that time TriTronics was able to supply one for around $16 if I remember
TriTronics was at that time an authorized supplier for parts for a number of makes but those days and that company are long gone
Mine came with 2 straight arm wands and was in it's original carton
I sold the table eventually it was beautiful and a technological tour de force but it worried me too much for the long haul if it ever developed problems I regret selling it sometimes but that's how it goes I guess
Just so many ICs to fret about and incapable of working without them
But I didn't know then or have the confidence I do now
That does not seem to be a problem you have!
You may want to think about re-capping a machine like this in order to preserve it for the future especially if you fall in love with it
I am going to look at another fairly complex DD machine this AM that a friend of mine at a local thrift called me about an old Sony. I have always wanted another fully automatic machine ever since I sold the Denon and all the others that have passed through over the years so wonderful when they are working well
Very nice that you solved your problems! Satisfying too I imagine
Here's hoping you get many trouble free miles out of your new beauty!
 
Hey, talk about late to the party. Sarg, glad you got it fixed. I own a couple of '59Ls, 62Ls, a 72L and a plethora of other Denons. Rest assured though, you had original wires in that arm. They are OEM Denon OFC wire. I also wanted to let you know that these tables came two ways:
1) with a straight tonearm and 2 counterbalance weights (small, and med-large)
2) with both straight and 'S' tonearms with 4 weights (small, med-small, med-large, & large)

If it had one small weight, you were missing the med-large size.

They also offered the 'S' wand with the med-small and large weights as a kit:
PCL-59S.

Do not buy the wands for the 57L, 62L, 67L, or 72L. They are NOT the same wands used on this table as another member suggested. They attach similarly, and are similar in design, have the same length, overhang etc, however, they are distinctly different: both the straight and the 'S' wand are higher mass arms than the wands for the tables listed above. You can see in the thickness of the pipes if you placed them side by side. If you try and use one, the table is tuned to control the stylus force, anti-skate and damping with the higher mass arms that were made for this table; if you use another, the dialed in settings will not be accurate.

Happy spinning!
 
Last edited:
Hello, Thank you for your message.
Well, this battle has been some time ago now.
I finally succeeded in fixing the problem with the straight wand.
But I had to rewire the wand; the original denon wires could not be used.
I took instead very good cadras wires so i think there should not be any problem.

Lately, I bought a S-wand and yet another straight wand.
Well, I dont know which denon model the S-wand comes from.
But it fits perfectly and looks exactly like an original S-wand.
And I got for some 20 usd, so .... I should not complain

As to the straight one. Well, it seems to fit (I have not use it yet) but, being very similar, it is indeed slightly different from the original that I have.
(I dont have them at hand I cant make a shot).

You say that the mass is different and this can be a problem. Well,
I will weigh the both when I get to them. But even if the mass is different,
is it really a bid deal?
it can be weighed and adjusted, can it not?

Thank you
 
While you can use a scale for stylus force, compensating for how the microprocessor adjusts for anti-skate, and how it compensates and adjusts pressure as it tracks warps real -time won't be optimum. You can play with the arm and it will work, but to get the most out of the tables advanced tracking capabilities, the original arms for the 59 model are recommended by Denon.
 
sar8 said:
The adventure is over:))

Hello, everybody

Well, finally I fixed the tonearm problem.
I had to wait some day for cardas wires from England.

I replaced the wires, then assembled the tonearm.
Put a cartridge. and everything works!!!

The sound is great. I have not yet finetuned it but already the result is great.
It was difficult to solder these very thin wires.
and difficult to put everything back together.
I think the wires could be a bit thicker.

I did not solder directly to the pins, I used clips.
But now everything is fine.

actually the arm lift happens to function too. There was no problem. I just had to set it up properly.

The antiskating works, I could verify it.

I don t know yet if the Q-damping really works. Because I dont know how to verify it.

But there are chances it does. Everything works, why it should not?

Moreover, I even bought another tonearm (S-shaped). It has not arrived yet from Norway.

So, everything is fine.

My question now is how could I find out the year of production?
is it possible?

There is an lable on the back side of the TT.
But I dont know what the figures can signify.
Any ideas?

And thank you very much everybody for the advice. You were very helpfull!
Click to expand...
If you could help me with the re-assemble part I would appreciatae it very much. I'm about to add clips to the 3 remaining wires and then try to put it all back into the arm.
 

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