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What pay attention to when buying a Denon dp-59L?

Aha – the old hard to hear multimeter! Well, of the 5 or so multimeters I own, only one of them (the most recent digital multimeter – the other one is about 30 years old, and the others are analogue meters) makes a beep to indicate a connection, and it’s easily audible, even when standing well away from it. I do also have a buzzer from an old work toolkit, which buzzes when there’s a connection, and you could hear that in the next room, it’s so loud! You could always take yours back to where you bought it from, and say it doesn’t make a very loud beep – they may replace it for you with one that is louder if you ask politely!

But as to the turntable having open circuit wiring, I’d say that considering the amount you paid, it should be expected to work properly – you shouldn’t have to fix it. Whether you can or not, I don’t know – it probably depends what the fault actually is. There could also be other faults. It’s definitely worth fixing, as it’s a very good turntable. Whether I would fix it depends – if I’d bought it knowing it was faulty, I’d probably be happy to try and fix it, but if I’d bought it expecting it to work properly and had been told it did, then I might try and get my money back in exchange for the turntable.

If you do try and fix it, then it will be necessary to turn it over and take the bottom off - just make sure you keep the screws in a container so they don't get lost. I use small plastic fishing tackle boxes, and occasionally, 35mm plastic film containers (remember film cameras?:D). It also helps if you have something soft to put under the turntable to prevent damage when you turn it upside down - an old cushion or something like that is ideal. Also, make sure you remove the platter before turning it over - they weigh quite a lot, and can do a bit of damage if they fall.

Good luck!
 
I also would be concerned about packaging for shipping.

Denon turntables are magnificent precision equipment. If you can get both arms, they will take about any cartridge on the market. I'm not sure how you would make sure it's working properly though and if you have to return it the packaging and shipping charges would be pretty steep.

Good luck! I hope it works out in your favor.
 
Well, yes, of course,

but it is an extraordinary TT,
the motor works, I have two wires Ok (out of four).

What is the problem? To re-establish connection for two active wires.
I do see why it can not be done.
There are chances that it can be fixed.

If the tonearm wires do not interfere with other electronic systems of the TT (which is the case I suppose) why it is not possible just to by-pass PCB altogether ?

It is just a conjecture. Anyway I should try to fix it. Because not only it is good and beautiful TT, it is extremely (well, very) rare in Europe.

What would be great is a piece of advice from technically competent person.
who would know TTs and Denon gears in particular. If smb knows such a person to whom I could write, please let me know.
Because, I have to open it to find where the wires go etc. I would like to know where the wires are, and how to get to them properly.

I think I ll write Denon people for advice.

I d like to know where the tonearm wires join / are connected to the RCA wires? where is the place they are linked?
 
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You do know that the tone arm wand is detachable, correct. :scratch2:

You just loosen the "arm fixing screw" and pull the entire wand out.

The four wires only go as far as the contacts at the end of the wand.

Yes, and checking the wires in the wand before opening up the turntable would be very prudent. Isolate where the problem is first!

The problem can certainly be fixed, but for someone with little or no experience, you could end up doing more damage than good.

Proceed with caution!

Jon
 
Yes I know it.
You are right,I did it,

I took the tonearm out and tested all the wires in it, and indeed, I got exactly the same result, only two wires give a beep, the same.
it shows that the problem comes from the tonearm wires.

But now there is another problem, I can not get to the tonearme wires because
the tonearm tube is fixed with two tiny screws (on the down looking side).
One screw is ok, I can take it out easily, but the other is dead stuck, does not move at all, I seem to have worsen things by damaging it while trying to open with my screwdriver:((
 

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Yes I know it.
You are right,I did it,

I took the tonearm out and tested all the wires in it, and indeed, I got exactly the same result, only two wires give a beep, the same.
it shows that the problem comes from the tonearm wires.

But now there is another problem, I can not get to the tonearme wires because
the tonearm tube is fixed with two tiny screws (on the down looking side).
One screw is ok, I can take it out easily, but the other is dead stuck, does not move at all, I seem to have worsen things by damaging it while trying to open with my screwdriver:((

It's hard to see from that angle, is there enough of the head of the screw sticking out to get a hold of with a small pliers, or vise grip?

As I said before, use caution! You haven't ruined anything yet, but you're getting close!

Jon
 
Oh, yes! I will be very caution!

I am really surprised at the result of the test of the arm wires.
I tested several times. All the same, the same 2 wires "sounds" and the other are dead!

well, tomorrow I am going to see either a jeweller, or better, a watchmaker
to try to remove the screw.



Well, yes there is some head of the screw sticking out. I tried to turn it with a small pliers but it does not move at all.

I ll see what a watchmaker will say tomorrow.

By the way, I wrote to a guy who own a dp-59l and he said that the wires in the tonearm look authentic to him.


Thank you
 
It might also be possible to file a groove across the screw head, so that a common screwdriver could be used to take it out. A rotary tool, aka Dremel, with a thin cutting wheel would also work to cut a groove.

Caution!

Jon
 
Oh, yes! I will be very caution!

I am really surprised at the result of the test of the arm wires.
I tested several times. All the same, the same 2 wires "sounds" and the other are dead!

well, tomorrow I am going to see either a jeweller, or better, a watchmaker
to try to remove the screw.



Well, yes there is some head of the screw sticking out. I tried to turn it with a small pliers but it does not move at all.

I ll see what a watchmaker will say tomorrow.

By the way, I wrote to a guy who own a dp-59l and he said that the wires in the tonearm look authentic to him.


Thank you

Good idea!

Jon
 
You haven't ruined anything yet, but you're getting close!Jon

LOL... reminds of Flying High, when Robert Stack in the control tower is talking to the pilot... "Have you flown a large passenger aircraft... Have you multi engine experience... etc" of which the answers were "no".. and then Robert Stack turns to everyone in the control tower, with the mic still open so the pilot overhears, and says "They're doomed! They're all dead" .. then says into the mic "Ok son, you're doing fine. We'll help you through this"

So, I hope you are talked through this one, as it is a lovely TT and it will put a smile on your dial each time you hear it. Alas, unlike Flying High, there is no blow-up auto-pilot.

As Arnie would say "Go ooon.. you can dooo eeeet!" :D
 
LOL... reminds of Flying High, when Robert Stack in the control tower is talking to the pilot... "Have you flown a large passenger aircraft... Have you multi engine experience... etc" of which the answers were "no".. and then Robert Stack turns to everyone in the control tower, with the mic still open so the pilot overhears, and says "They're doomed! They're all dead" .. then says into the mic "Ok son, you're doing fine. We'll help you through this"

So, I hope you are talked through this one, as it is a lovely TT and it will put a smile on your dial each time you hear it. Alas, unlike Flying High, there is no blow-up auto-pilot.

As Arnie would say "Go ooon.. you can dooo eeeet!" :D

He seems very determined. The watch maker plan looks like a better choice.

I've been in the position of knowing just enough to get myself in trouble! :D

Jon
 
It might also be possible to file a groove across the screw head, so that a common screwdriver could be used to take it out. A rotary tool, aka Dremel, with a thin cutting wheel would also work to cut a groove.

Caution!

Jon

Yes, the idea is good, but I can not imagine how thin the cutting wheel must be! the screw is so tiny!!
 
sar8

I own a DP-62l which uses the same arm wands, and I will assure you those wires are not OEM. Someone has rewired that wand and in addition to doing a poor job of wiring has probably damaged the two screws you are trying to get out. What makes it worse as was mentioned earlier in the thread, those replacement wands go for silly money.
 
sar8

I own a DP-62l which uses the same arm wands, and I will assure you those wires are not OEM. Someone has rewired that wand and in addition to doing a poor job of wiring has probably damaged the two screws you are trying to get out. What makes it worse as was mentioned earlier in the thread, those replacement wands go for silly money.

I have a DENON DP59L that has the same wire. Mine came from the original owner. It may be the factory wire. I think op should take it to a repair shop before he does some real damage. It's a nice table spend afew extra bucks and have a little peace of mind.
 
I have a DENON DP59L that has the same wire. Mine came from the original owner. It may be the factory wire. I think op should take it to a repair shop before he does some real damage. It's a nice table spend afew extra bucks and have a little peace of mind.


Thank you, opinions split on whether the arm wires are original or it's been rewired.

It may be this or that but at present the task is to open the arm and to see what is the problem inside, why there is no connection, as I could determine yesterday with the multimeter. Besides, it may show are the wires original or not.

Personally, I fail to understand why smb would want to rewire a denon arm?
 
As you've isolated the problem to the plug-in tonearm tube, that's obviously where the problem is - possibly because someone has replaced the wiring, or maybe fractured two of the wires while trying to do something - perhaps pull the wires out further to make them reach a cartridge, after breaking a clip off (it's easy to break a clip off a tonearm - I've done it myself).

The question is, do you repair the wiring yourself, or take it to a professional. Getting it fixed professionally will almost certainly be expensive, but as you've just spent a lot buying the turntable, you may feel that's justified.

On the other hand, trying to get that screw out and replacing the wires yourself may be justified - I'm sure a jeweller may have some experience with small screws, so may be able to help. After that it's just a matter of replacing the wires (without damaging anything!).

Does anyone know if this Denon has a muting circuit/switches, or not?

Yes, I do. I've checked the circuit out before I started advising about it, and there's no muting switch. As I explained to the OP yesterday, it's just wired stright out, via the plug-in arm tube, through that socket/plug, then to the tonearm PCB, and from the PCB straight out to the output leads. The only things in the path are wires, one plug and socket (for the tonearm tube) and the PCB tracks, which are quite short, as they just terminate the wires from the tonearm and the output shielded cables and earth wire.
 
Well, Yes, the problem seems to be isolated.

1-I tested the wires out of the arm and the RCA plugs. it showed that only two wires were functional, those of the RCA shields (sleeves). I marked them and blue


2-Then I took the tonearm out and tested the wires going out and the other tonearm end connections. The result was the same. The same wires were functional.

that clearly indicates that there is, at least, a problem inside the tonearm.

But, it does not prove, unfortunately, that there is no other problems.

But anyway, first things first. I have to get inside the tonearm to see what's proble.

I don't understand ,as I said, what for smb would want to rewire a denon tonearm and fail to do it properly on top of it?
 
Thank you, opinions split on whether the arm wires are original or it's been rewired.

It may be this or that but at present the task is to open the arm and to see what is the problem inside, why there is no connection, as I could determine yesterday with the multimeter. Besides, it may show are the wires original or not.

Personally, I fail to understand why smb would want to rewire a denon arm?

Well; I quickly took one photo of straight wand I got with my 59L (as there was not cartridge installed on it right now). The S-wand is connected to my DP 59L at the moment.

So do they look similar? At least the thickness, and ''copper'' colour seemed to be quite same? How knows...maybe there also have been some small changes between year models/production series of these Denons?

What comes to those small 2 screws (headshell connected to wand)...in my case the 2. of them seemed to be bit glued too (=> for sure it can not be opened easily). Perhaps they have even used that small drop of glue because those screws are not meant to be opened (sameway as it's in my Luxman PD 277....TA-1 arm's headshell).

I also tried to see how these headshell wires (red, blue, green and white) will come out of that wand (their orders...from up to down and/or from left to right)...but it's very difficult to say/see). Sorry.
 

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