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lapping tape heads

Orcinus

Active Member
Well, I've been scared about doing it myself, but I finally got the guts to lap the tape heads on my Otari deck. All six of them! I have two headstacks, one for 1/4 track play/record and 1/2 track play only, and another for 1/2 track play/record and 1/4 track play only. I didn't lap the erase heads because I don't think you actually CAN lap these heads without destroying them, but the 1/2 track erase head has no wear anyways, and the 1/4 track erase head has very VERY little wear.

So! If anyone wants some heads lapped and wouldn't mind sending them to Canada, I can do it for a small fee. :naughty: :thmbsp:

Here's a before and after shot of my handiwork. These are the exact same head!

before.jpg


after.jpg


:music:
 
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Looks "reel" good! How did you do it, or is it a closely guarded secret? :scratch2:

Well, not really closely guarded... any research via google would reveal how it's done. I just used 600 grit wet sandpaper, and a lot of patience. The trickiest part is the angle of the head on the paper, in order to maintain the curve of the face, and the sandpaper must be on a perfectly flat surface. I used a mirror. :D

Although, I'd like to get some even finer grit paper, 1000 or 2000 for example, to add a very high polish to the face.

:music:
 
Better than sandpaper is mylar abrasive for polishing fiber optic terminations. It comes in 2 "grits" . I've seen it in several catalogs. Search for fiber optic supplies.
 
Better than sandpaper is mylar abrasive for polishing fiber optic terminations. It comes in 2 "grits" . I've seen it in several catalogs. Search for fiber optic supplies.

And it would probably cost more than replacing the heads with brand new ones. :no:
 
Why do you do this? Just curious.

Looks good though!

Evan

Head performance is affected when wear causes grooves like this. The edge of the tape will sometimes like to ride up on the ridge, pulling it away from the gap in the head that actually reads the magnetic domains, and the sound fades in and out, especially higher frequencies. It also makes aligning/calibrating the deck a right royal pain in the arse, not to mention putting excessive wear on the edges of the tape.
 
WHOA buddy!

I totally did not see the groove the first time!!! Thats a monster.

That makes sense now.

Seriously nice job fixing that!
 
Ooooh...you can DO that? That's right up my alley. I got all kinds of auto body and wood sanding stuff here...anybody ever polish them on a grinder/buffing wheel combo with compound for the final finish, or is that a big no-no?
I didn't know this was possible, does it work on most types of heads?
Dan
 
Ooooh...you can DO that? That's right up my alley. I got all kinds of auto body and wood sanding stuff here...anybody ever polish them on a grinder/buffing wheel combo with compound for the final finish, or is that a big no-no?
I didn't know this was possible, does it work on most types of heads?
Dan

Well, it certainly would not work on the infamous Akai Glass Xtal heads. But I've done it with these Otari heads, and a friend of mine has done it with TEAC heads. I've not tried a buffing wheel, but I don't think it would cause any problems... Just make sure you clean the head very thoroughly after using buffing compound.
 
And how do you go about realigning the heads after you've removed them and done all this? I think that would be the scary part.
 
And how do you go about realigning the heads after you've removed them and done all this? I think that would be the scary part.

That's why I haven't done it with my TEAC decks. The Otari's head stack has adjustment plates that are independent of the heads. Two small screws hold the head to the adjustment plate, and then three larger hex-head screws hold the adjustment plate to the head block itself. This makes it a snap to remove the heads, lap them, then put them back in the same alignment they were in before removing them. However, I -do- have to do some minor adjustments, especially on the record head, but I've done it before on my TEAC 3340S so I'm no stranger to the world of head alignment. It's a severe pain in the ass, lemme tell you. :mad:
 
That makes the Otari deck very easy, but how about your run of the mill Akai or Teac deck? How does Average Joe do a head alignment on them in the absence of lots of test gear?
 
Actually, most head alignment is done optically to begin with. If you have some clear leader tape, just thread it up and do a rough alignment using the leader as a guide. You don't actually have to play the tape, just thread it among the guides and heads. The tape should touch the head as it normally would during playback. If you cannot defeat your tape lifters with a cue lever, then thread the tape OUTSIDE the capstan/pinch roller and hit play.

Once it's mostly aligned that way, play back a multi-track tape (not full-track), preferably with test tones of 1 KHz and 10 KHz, that was recorded on your machine (assuming it was well-aligned before removing the heads) and adjust the head height using equal turns on all three screws to get the highest response at 1 KHz. Re-check optical alignment. Then adjust azimuth with the test tape to get the most response at 10 KHz. If you have a 2-channel oscilloscope, you can then connect the output of two channels from the deck and display it as X-Y on the scope, and further adjust the azimuth to get a straight diagonal line (no oval). This step isn't ultra-critical, but if you have or can borrow a 'scope, I recommend it.

Once the playback head is aligned in this manner, and the record head is optically aligned, thread up some GOOD blank tape (one that won't suffer from dropouts or poor frequency response) and start recording a 1KHz tone at 0 dB. While monitoring the tape from the playback head, adjust the height of the record head until you get even, high levels. watch the VU meters and make all adjustments slowly. Haste makes waste. There will be a fraction of a second delay between making an adjustment and it's effect showing on the VU meters, because it takes a finite amount of time for the tape to travel from the record head to the playback head. Once you have the record head mostly aligned at 1 KHz, you can do finer adjustment with 10 KHz, and also adjust azimuth with 10 KHz. 10 KHz @ 0dB input at 7.5 IPS and slower will more than likely saturate the tape on your machine, so don't be worried if the playback level isn't anywhere near 0dB. You can increase the output to make it more readable. We're simply trying to get the highest levels.

From here you can do even finer adjustments to things like playback reference level and playback EQ as long as you have an alignment tape from a place such as MRL. DO NOT USE HOME-BREW TAPES FOR PLAYBACK LEVEL AND EQ ADJUSTMENT!!! I cannot stress this enough. I have attempted to align several decks many times, and this is NOT an accurate way to do it, even if you make the tape from a "known good" machine. TRUST ME! MRL charges a lot of money for these tapes for a good reason. They are very accurately made, much more accurately than your own machine can ever hope to accomplish.

As always, if you have one available, consult the service manual for your deck. If you don't have one, get one. They're worth their weight in gold.

:music:
 
F O polish film

I can send you some F O polishing films if you would like to try some.
The films are in microns and range from 0.3 up to 15 .
Send me a PM with your address and what micron size you would like to try.
Don
 
I will post the polishing films tomorrow.
BTW the manufactures, measure the head inductance to check that they do not over polish a head and open up the pole piece gap. I do not know the spec for your heads
Don
 
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