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Caig Deoxit products question

alexkerhead

alexkerhead

To High For Infinity
OK, I used to use the Caig DeOxit D5S-6 and read somewhere here that faderlube might be a better option. I bought a can of fadelube F5S-6 when i ran out of D5.

I have been using the Faderlube F5 for a week or so and it seems the same as the D5 for how well it works. It does take longer to dry, but I am patient.


My question is:

Is the faderlube F5 giving the pots and swtiches enough lubrication? Is the lubrication better than the D5's?

I ask, because the can says that the F100 offers the extra lubrication and I was wondering if the ridiculous price of F100 is worth it and offers enough extra lubrication to be worth it.

Thanks in advanced.
 
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I would like to know the answer to your question, too. But I wanted to say that after about going broke buying the stuff at Radio Shack, I bought a big can of each at Guitar Center in the Pro Audio section. Seems like the D5 was $10 and the Fader Lube was $12. That's cheaper than the cheap stuff at Lowe's, for me.
 
My understanding is that regular DeoxIT is primarily a deoxidizing agent, and offers minimal (if any) long term lubrication.

FaderLube on the other hand is designed to be used as a lubricant.

Depending on the specific application, I would be inclined to clean with DeoxIT, and follow up with a shot of FaderLube to lubricate.

There is lots of information available on the Caig web site if you really want to pick nits....
 
The issue has been the use of Deoxit on pots and faders causing damage to the devices. As I understand it, it is the solvent that Deoxit is cut with that can damage the adhesive that holds the carbon based contacts in the pots and faders, not the Deoxit itself. If you use the 100 percent Deoxit you will not run the risk of damage. Deoxit does not have the lubricating action of the Faderlube and as such Deoxit use can be followed with the use of Faderlube. Deoxit Gold is the recommended product for use on gold contacts. Thorough drying time is also recommended before activation.

I have been using a self made mix of 10 percent of Pure Deoxit with 80 percent of 92 percent Isopropyl alcohol with great success for flushing out really dirty faders. The alcohol spreads the Deoxit into hard to get to switches also. I then follow up with a dose of Faderlube. The bottles of 100 percent Deoxit and Faderlube are expensive but with the precision oiler bottles you do not have the waste of using a spray can. I have done 3 receivers and a number of job related cleanings and my bottles appear hardly used.

I was dressed down in a past post for asking about cutting Deoxit with alcohol. I was not sure about why and may have this post questioned. All I can say is that I've done it, it works for me and have had no issues with it. Deoxit is a great product. It even works on my flashlight.
 
I stumbled on this thread http://audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=101271 in the marantz forum. There are references to other discussions in that thread. In a nutshell, many of the potentiometers in vintage electronics have carbon tracks which can break down. The application of, say, Deoxit D5 can accelerate the process and even finish off the carbon, leaving you with a non functioning pot. So faderlube is recommended for pots. Switches are metal to metal contacts and D5 should be fine. In some cases the pot can be carbon to metal, so you have some oxidation on the metal contact. You want D5 in there but you have to worry about the carbon. Use faderlube to be safe. Maybe the pot can be disassembled and you can use both.
 
As I understand it, only 5% of the F5 is Faderlube. The rest is solvent/carrier. This evaporates off and leaves you with that 5% of pure faderlube on your contacts. F100 is 100% Faderlube, so 100% of what you put on remains. So it gives more lubrication for the same volume of product.

So I guess if you are using faderlube for a cleaning application, use the F% for the solvents it contains. It could also be useful if you need to get it into somewhere that the solvents would help it flow. If you are using it for lubrication, use the F100. Personally, I only have the F100.

For lubrication of things like RCA jacks, stereo jacks and vacuum tube pins, I have been using the Pro Gold in the little nail polish bottle. Its expensive, but it doesn't take much. Of course, don't do like I did and knock the open bottle onto the carpet. I nearly cried. :tears:
 
Thanks, Brian!

Every day I realize how much more there is to learn... :sigh:

When I was 10, I thought I'd be done by now. :smoke:
 
I am curious as to what that 5% lube is. I tried to find it at Caig site but they don't seem to reveal it even with an SDS info. Does Anyone Know?
If we could find out maybe we could just by the specified lubricant cheaper or easier? We might even have it on hand already. I have used lithium ,lubraplate on other electronic devices contact points (pinball Machines yes I used to fix them years ago), but sensitive stuff Silicone and Teflon lubes seem to work just fine for me and lasts a looooong time. They do just what the fader lube seems to say it does after cleaning of course : increase conductivity ,lubricate, protect and not degrade the material they are suppose to protect Any thoughts?
 
I like your avatar 2020man! Yes you are probably right but the caveat is they, at least I think they would, have to have some sort of a Safety data sheet for shipping etc. that lists ALL ingredients. But really how many different kinds of lubricants can there be? I think after a while they would be just variants or mixes of the same materials? I say if it works for you go for it at least that's what 4/5 voices in my head say
 
According to the Caig package liner. Deoxit to deoxidize, Deoxit Gold or Shield to seal the contacts and Faderlube to lubricate. This is the sequence they recommend. I believe I have read here that the remaining 95% of D5 and F5 are petroleum based solvents, which is why they are not recommended for the carbon based pots. The solvent dissolves the glue holding the carbon in place.
 
:scratch2: Great thread. I am getting ready to give about 4 units a thorough going over in the next few weeks and will be looking much closer at what I am cleaning after reading this thread.
I also have use rubbing alcohol for a variety of cleaning applications. I only use 90% or greater since the cut in rubbing alcohol is water.
:scratch2: What about boards themselves? Is denatured alcohol a suitable cleaner?:scratch2:
Anyone have any expertise where slide switches are concerned, such as are found on EQ's. I am kind of nervous about even messing with those.:smoke: :smoke: :smoke:
 
Cheon, those sliders are just what faderlube is for, You can use 100% faderlube to deox them and faderlube will clean a second time and lube them up. As far as the cutting you can get 92% isopropyl at, of all places, Wal Mart and as you may know 100% isopropyl can be gotten at electronics parts places for a usually steep price. I have seen denatured melt some plastics so I don't think it would be a good choice.
 
So, just to summarize, since DeOxit 100% cleans and lubricates, would it them be the preferred overall solution for all Front pots (Volume, Tone, etc), Slider (Balance), the Function Switch - and the other front switches?
Would we need to follow any then with Faderlube?
While we're on the subject, are their other items that may need to be deoxed or lubricated?
 
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